Skodadriver

I lost my aerial..... ( someone just yanked it out including the screw base).... so had a big problem... which I solved quite easily..... removed the radio... and the aerial plug..... cut the aerial plug wire about 6 inches from the plug.... soldered on (or you could just twist on) about 1 metre of ordinary 7/22 stranded wire, and laid it behind the passenger side glove box..... works on all the local FM stations.... but does not work on the Medium wave or Longwave frequencies... (Just make sure that you insulate the joint with insulating tape,.... and the other end is not bare against any metal work.)

If all your brake lights are working.......This is sometimes caused by the plunger in the brake light switch "sticking".... Especially if you have "let go" the brake pedal pretty quickly back into the "off" position.... It is situated behind the brake pedal arm, (under your foot), and when it happens you may be able to just "fiddle around" to release it back to it`s normal position... and then it should not flash any more.. (until the next time ! ! )...

Problem has been solved..... but at some expense !... first I changed the resistor pack £35.00 from main dealer then I changed the Control Panel £35.00 from scrappy then I changed the fan unit £35.00 from scrappy (what is it about £35 ?? ?? ?? ??) The fan would not work in it`s normal position, but moved "slightly out of position/axis" would work perfectly..... I found this out by error !... what a costly error..... I think the bearings must have worn slightly, and therefore were wearing the motor brushes unevenly, ..... Oh well..... working fine now.... and bags of blow because I left out the "pollen filter" !

Have changed the temp sensor, and still the same.... ! not sure what the next step is now !.... yes it is a bit "awkward" to get to the sensor on the diesel..... I used a black bin liner under the "return pipe" from the Coolant Reservior, at front of engine (easiest acces point) to drain down the fluid, then carefully lifted that out and put into a bucket to transfer to a watering can, before doing the job,.... also removed the airfilter cover, to gain a bit better access to the temp sensor...... used a "stubby " flat screwdriver to prise out the holding clip, and another thinner one to deburr the "catch" to remove the wiring , once I had the old sensor out of the engine block..... (carefully removed the O ring) then just push the new one in with the o ring on and refitted the wiring, and the air filter housing. before topping back up with the coolant fluid.... cheers Gerry

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE 27 January 2010.... see below....! see below !.... see below ...! see below.....! The temp gauge has dropped to zero when cruising at 60 mph after about an hour from start up... Never seemed to rise to "normal" position.... I slowed down, to see if it was related to the speed of cold air (it was freezing weather) through the radiator, but did not rise significantly.... got home and replaced the thermostat with new one.... ran engine, took about 30 mins to get up to "normal" temp.... with the cap off the reservoir, revved the engine a couple of times and then put the cap on tight, whilst engine running.... went for a "test drive" the needle gradually dropped back to zero, checked coolant level, remains at normal.... is there any other way to "bleed" the cooling system??? 1. Water seems to be circulating, as it looks like it is being pumped into the reservoir by the small bore pipe at the top of the engine to the reservoir.... (so am assuming the water pump is ok..... confirm diagnosis ..... yes or no???) 2. Performance does not seem to be affected.....No excess smoke or pressure in oil filler ...rad hoses do not seem to be "pressurised"...... no loss of coolant....... (assuming head gasket must be ok...... confirm diagnosis ...... yes or no????) 3. Temp gauge needle moves.... (assume no fault with gauge...... confirm diagnosis..... yes or no???) 4. When the temp guage is showing zero (cold) the bottom of the rad is "cold" to touch, when temp gauge shows "normal" (after standing still but running engine to get hot)... the bottom of rad (and bottom hose (where thermostat enters engine block to bottom of rad) is hot.... (as would be expected with correct operation of thermostat)..... 5. No warning lights appear on dash board ! Any advice would be appreciated.... thanks Gerry EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT OK.... so I have replaced the thermostat...... and I have now replaced the Temperature sender unit...... but the problem is still the same.... further info..... the heater is working..... but only Warm Air, is coming out..... the top hose from the engine to the Radiator is "comfortably warm"..... the "bottom hose from the side of the engine (with thermostat in at engine) is "cool".... bottom of rad is "cool".... (not COLD.... cool! ) Road testing for 30 minutes does not bring the temp gauge to move..... but 30 mins after that, at tick-over standing still, the temp gauge will reach Normal..... then on a road test for 15 minutes, the gauge will gradually return to the cold positon, despite the heater still blowing (gently) warm air......(No loss of performance durng road tests) UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE OK... temp gauge is now working properly....... !.... got myself ANOTHER NEW THERMOSTAT..... fitted it............... ran engine for 10 mins, then put coolant reservoir cap on,............ went for a drive.......10 mins up the road, and the temp gauge was climbing............. another 10 mins............ up to normal position......... stopped car, checked coolant level...... seemed to have lost about half a litre..........(did a quick check for leaks but none found ) ..... topped it up, and drove home........... temp gauge remained at normal........... at home............ checked coolant level........... NORMAL !..... Been in and out on short journeys all day, and everything seems back to normal now..... oh yes, my heater works REALLY WELL now.... !.... (took the old "new" thermostat back to the shop, and got a refund on it.) Not sure if this is significant. BUT..... original did not have any holes in the plate of the thermostat....... the old "new" one did !.... the NEW new one (the one that is in now), does not have any holes in it..... (both new one`s were made by Quinton Hazel)l.... retail...... (from motor factors) at £12.84..... I used to sell the very same item 25 years ago for little over £1 .! ! ! :'( Moral of the story is.... if you think it might be , then it probably is ! ! !....

I wonder if this is the problem I am having with my Y reg 2001 Fabia 1.9 SDI (diesel) The temp gauge has dropped to zero when cruising at 60 mph after about an hour from start up... Never seemed to rise to "normal" position.... I slowed down, to see if it was related to the speed of cold air (it was freezing weather) through the radiator, but did not rise significantly.... got home and replaced the thermostat with new one.... ran engine, took about 30 mins to get up to "normal" temp.... with the cap off the reservoir, revved the engine a couple of times and then put the cap on tight, whilst engine running.... went for a "test drive" the needle gradually dropped back to zero, checked coolant level, remains at normal.... is there any other way to "bleed" the cooling system??? 1. Water seems to be circulating, as it looks like it is being pumped into the reservoir by the small bore pipe at the top of the engine to the reservoir.... (so am assuming the water pump is ok..... confirm diagnosis ..... yes or no???) 2. Performance does not seem to be affected.....No excess smoke or pressure in oil filler ...rad hoses do not seem to be "pressurised"...... no loss of coolant....... (assuming head gasket must be ok...... confirm diagnosis ...... yes or no????) 3. Temp gauge needle moves.... (assume no fault with gauge...... confirm diagnosis..... yes or no???) 4. When the temp guage is showing zero (cold) the bottom of the rad is "cold" to touch, when temp gauge shows "normal" (after standing still but running engine to get hot)... the bottom of rad (and bottom hose (where thermostat enters engine block to bottom of rad) is hot.... (as would be expected with correct operation of thermostat)..... 5. No warning lights appear on dash board ! Any advice would be appreciated.... thanks Gerry

I have a similar problem..... BUT.... having replaced the resistor pack..... it is still there. My problem is, when I switch on the heater blower.... (no matter what position)... it runs for about 20 seconds before "dying", as if connected to a duff battery.... (like a bulb losing brightness).... it slows down, and then stops.... there is a "rough clicking" noise coming from the fan motor as is eventually dies , but is not present when the fan is runn for the 20 secs, If I leave it for about 5 minutes, I can repeat the 20 second blow !.... (not very good for keeping the screen clear !... I have removed the pollen filter from the heater unit (access under the glove box)....the fan has a nice bit of power behind it now ! on full blast. ! Anyone got any ideas? EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT..... Problem SOLVED !.... Replaced the Resistor Pack. £35.00 ........ no change Replaced the Controld Panel (interior) £35.00 (Scrapyard)........ no change Replaced the Fan unit £35.00 (scrapyard)....... Now working OK..... left out the pollen filter to get more power in the "blow"! Ha Ha Ha !.... why didn`t I replace the fan first...... well, I got the fan out, cos I suspected it..... and rigged up a couple of wires to put on the battery terminals...... fan worked brilliantly,... did this a couple of times.... and let it run to make sure it was really working.. before refitting it... after refitting the new control panel (what a fiddly job that was).... the fan did exactly the same as before..... ran for a few seconds then died..... so unscrewed it and moved it "slightly" out of alignment from proper postion. then switched it on....... it worked fine..... I could get the fan to run in any position EXCEPT it`s proper working position, so assume that the bearings on the fan had worn down due to gravity, and so eventually replaced the fan......

Thanks very much for the details... Just finished Christmas Dinner, (and washing up).... ! so will be looking at it tomorrow, after "resting" for the rest of the day.... Much appreicate your help and advice.... Best wishes for the rest of today, and the holiday,....... Happy New Year, and may it be a good one for you..... cheers Gerry

Thanks for the reply................. Merry Christmas !... Checked the plenum cahmber, and is clear of leaves..... when the fan is running, there is a "good strong blast" of air from it.... (Pollen filter removed)..... (is it really necessary?????) could you post a photo or two of the Fuse Locations you mention? Or send them to me as an email...... enquiries (at) nemosphotography.co.uk as I can`t remember seeing any fuses where you say, near the battery.... checked the battery terminals, and they are "clean and tight".... where would the "motor earth" be located? where is the "pull and clean the X contact relay," access instructions? and lastly, the location of the "control unit which is integral to the heater control panel." (and access instructions......?) Whilst I would like to get it working properly, I am wondering if it is possible to wire direct to an "on / off " switch..... or bypass the (already paid for, but I may try to return it) resistor pack. back to the rotary heater control switch, so it is "on or off"... (not sure about the electrics on that, as I don`t want to put too much current through the wires, and have a fire starting under the dash...... would certainly clear the ice from the windscreen, but not a good idea ! !) I do have a "niggling" feeling that the motor may be on it`s way out, as the car has done 135,000 miles, can you replace the brushes on it? or is it a "new" unit from a scrapyard ???

Skoda Fabia 1.9 SDI Comfort.... Y reg (2001) Heater Fan Slows down after 20 seconds..... The heater blower works for about 20 seconds on full blast, then slows down as though it is wired up to a failing battery. yet the battery is not failing, as it will readily start the car on the cold mornings we have had just lately..... I have changed the resistor pack, and removed the Pollen FIlter, with no change in the situation....... (apart from the fan has a good blow pressure without the filter in place) ..... anyone else got any ideas.....? For future reference..... (to find the pollen filter).... look under the passenger (uk rhd) side glove compartment, there is a black oblong shape with two slide catches, slide them to the middle, and it should drop out... L shaped piece of plastic.... the filter is fitted vertically above,and it may need a pair of pliers to pull on the little tab to bring it down, into the cab. (to locate the resistor pack) Remove the five T15 star bolts holding the glove compartment box in place.... (two visible under neath & three above the glove compartment inside the door).....Ease away the side panel near the door, (clips ) and then withdraw the whole glove box..... the resistor pack is located in a very bad position above the fan, (actually inside the air vent passage) so it needs a small hand to get hold of the wires, and gently twist and turn until it appears..... withdraw completely, and the resistor pack is on the end of a plug module..... easy to change. as it only fits one way.... then carefully reverse the operation to replace....

Hi, I am Viktor from Rotterdam the netherlands. I have bought a Fabia Combi in Graphite Grey with 15 inch. I hope to enjoy myself on this site. Rgrds, Viktor