MarkyD

Thank you for the suggestions. i have projector style headlamps from factory and as they are pretty scratched, yellowed etc rather than polish I picked up a new set ( one genuine and one aftermarket )as I expect that to have a good improvement in light clarity with my halogen bulbs. had another awful return home from work in the dark plus bad weather yesterday. I will look into the led projector option. Are you suggesting using a particular headlamp unit more suitable to led or perhaps modify a xenon specific one? Without having one to examine I have read on previous old threads that it was suggested that basically the ones I have ( halogen projectors) were the same as factory xenon with maybe some slight difference in the projector lens but more importantly the levelling motors so that the car ( with the appropriate sensors and coding would control the movement of the lens). There seemed some debate on that so I may get a xenon headlamp unit to take apart. I,m trying to avoid the aftermarket hid. I have all the part numbers and prices for the level sensors and other necessary including that cable set. I have also seen that separate led specific projector lenses are available and the headlight unit can be modified for these. M

If you haven't found its location yet I am sure it is shown in one of the pictures in this Xenon FL retrofit by langers2k

Good morning, Every winter I look at doing a conversion. Maybe finally this year. Currently I am getting a list together for swapping out the headlight units for genuine Xenons . the front and back leveling sensors, range control module and wiring harness etc. I have VCDS and am assuming my Pre facelift L and K would have an option for factory Xenon so should be able to be coded. In the mean time I ordered the unsanctioned London colour HID ebay kit as recommended in the past using this link to have a play. Can anyone who did this confirm this is the right kit as I am concerned the pictures show a CANBUS Canceller black plastic box before the ballast which I understand could be a cause of potential harm to vehicle electronics? I have specified NON CANBUS but message back was to me cryptic. Thank you.

Yes there were 2 different sizes on the front axle ie driver and passenger were different sizes.

Thank you. m

Hello, I was just looking at the mot history of a Mk 2_ superb 4wd and in 2022 it was noted it failed due to different size tyres on the front axle. There is a period of a maximum of 2100 miles between this and the previous mot so assuming the 2021 mot inspection was decent this would be the maximum miles this would have been. What is the likely outcome of this and would there be damage or premature wear to the 4wd components? Thank you M

Hello, It used to be that Gates was recommended but have noticed they don't seem to be held in such high regard these days (anecdotal from USA websites/youtube). What would you recommend? Conti, Ina? Who are the OEM suppliers? Darkside do an genuine VAG kit for £260 whilst Conti and Ina are approximately half that. i will be doing it myself. Thank you

I would like to have a couple of cars likely in the sub £5000 bracket and because No claims Discount would only apply to one and therefore the others would be on zero years contributing to NCD (despite having well over 20 years total NCD), can anyone suggest a good company for either mirroring NCD or any other means of insuring more than one car? Generally insurance for me for 1 car is sub £200 but for another car without NCD would be a separate extra £450. Thank you Mark

i remembered this post regarding the differences in the 1.8 engines https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/2135-how-do-the-4-versions-of-the-18t-engine-fitted-to-the-uk-octavia-differ/ hope it is useful M

I had a Citroen cactus as a hire car for a few weeks whilst I looked for a replacement that was affordable and local enough to go see/get. I was having to do a long detour to avoid the flooded roads. I found a L&K 1.9PD Octavia Mk2 estate 3 hours away and arranged to have it delivered ( after cambelt, service etc done by deale)r as it was cheaper and easier that making another journey with a friend to drive it back. 2 days before the end of the hire period, on a rainy dark morning a pheasant flew straight into the radiator grill whilst I was going 50mph. I stopped and opened the bonnet. The engine bay was full of feathers . The bird had smashed through the plastic grill and pushed the radiator and air con radiator backwards. I have yearly wordwide car hire excess insurance and the car was from local reputable company. however damage repair costs of £1200 took 3 months to receive as they kept asking for more documents, proof, photos etc. I now do 30k miles per year all in 30 mile local journeys at an average speed of less than 40mph. Its nice not to visit the pumps so often and am doing a real 51mpg which considering our terrain is good. I just did my first oil change as I have gone back to fixed service. I have a starter motor to put in tomorrow. I did want another Mk1 4x4 or would have tried a MK2 4x4 1.9PD if I could have found one. Really like the Mk1 4x4 and been a good car for me. M

An update:- Incident occurred on second day of heavy rain. The back roads to work just before light. Going up a hill probably 20mph there was a slight dip before the road rose again. Just looked like normal wet road in that split second then care felt like hit a sponge wall and a brown wave of water up over the bonnet and onto the windscreen. engine still going and if I had got it into reverse quick enough may have pulled out backwards (never liked the push down gearstick to get into reverse). Car started to float I could feel the wheels losing traction and I was washed sidewards into deeper water and engine cuts out. Pushed to open the door but some resistance so decide to open window in case electrics fail. decide to climb out onto roof in the rain .Its very slippy. Its just getting light so retrieve phone from car get back on roof and ring friend to pull me out. No reply so ring autoaid who take an age locating my position. They advise me to ring emergency services so ask for fire brigade (who do a lot of flood rescue type stuff in the area0. Its light no and I can see a hedgebank about a metre away that I could probably jump onto. Unfortunately it is a huge mound of brambles for at least 10m in any direction. I am wearing shorts so decide not to get shredded. Water looks murky and smells slightly with a thin film of silt on top. Several cars come either end of the water. One even looks keen to give the crossing a go but I wave them away. Farmer arrives in massive pickup and drives straight into the middle throws me a rope and I slide down the bonnet and reach under the water to tie onto towing eye. I get towed out the other side just as the fire brigade arrive. There is an audi parked up by the side of the road. The owner arrives and he pops his bonnet and gets out his sodden air filter at the same time I do mine. turns out he nipped out for a paper the previous night and had a similar experience to me. said he pulled the car out with a rope on his own with spectators walking away. Garage arrive and put car on lorry and we retrace the road back home . As we are leaving the council arrive and start to unblock drain/gully wearing waders. The roads back are now seriously flooded requiring detour by recovery lorry. Hired a car for work and afternoon/evening caring role. Next day drop oil and change filters etc. suck water from inside cylinders. remove all air intakes and dry. Car fires up and runs. Change oil again. Take out all carpet and underlay. Put dehumidifier in car and got it nice and dry. work and caring means it stood on the drive a while and I got it on and off the ramp stands yesterday. It started up straight away and with another oil change have progressively reved it but not taked for a drive yet. some hint of burning oil but not major. Initially would like to keep and as done over 150k miles would another put engine/turbo in. alas no time spare so probably put in for sale section. Lots of good bits on it and I have lots to go on.

Can i ask where you got your replacement turbo from ? Thank you M

Stratguy https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Austauschmotor-1-8-TSI-1-8-TFSI-Motor-uberholt-Stufe-1/183228693376?fits=Year%3A2010|Model%3ASuperb+II+Kombi|Type%3A1.8+TSI|Platform%3A3T5|Make%3ASkoda&hash=item2aa947fb80:g:FO8AAOSw1~JZN4xx Did you get a reply as to what has been done to prevent future excess oil use? Thank you M

I am assuming the car is a write off after having to make a swift exit onto the roof via the window. Water covered seat squab inside. I had gradually got the car driving well by replacing parts over the last 7 years with updated ones as they failed so better brakes, anti roll bars, steering rack, Bilstein rear suspension,stainless exhaust and most of the bushes replaced with polybushes. I would have another one as it suited my needs well but probably they are too long in the tooth to start again unless I come across a sound, well sorted estate. The question now is what to replace it with which I may be asking in other parts of the forum. M

Smileyman. I bought the Bridgestone A005 before any reviews because I needed new tyres and they were available for a good price. I had several sets of the previous A001 5 years ago then Crossclimate then several sets of Nokian Weatherproof. The new Auto Bild All season test 2018 puts the A005 first for wet and dry beating the previous winner the Crossclimate. It looks that snow running is rated worse than the Weatherproof and even the Crossclimate. However my main requirements are for good stopping on wet muddy roads and resistance to aquaplaning with standing water collected on nearside of road and run off from fields across roads. I really liked the Nokian Weatherproof and also found them totally reassuring in the last snow and icy conditions however wanted better wet braking so looks like I am giving up some snow ability for dry and wet ability. I have a set of the Goodyear 4 season2 if we have snow. First impressions over 600 miles are very good against aquaplaning, good grip on muddy slippy roads but a bit more noisy than the Weatherproofs. M

Personally gone for Bridgestone A005 this time around but potential savings on Michelin tyres https://marketing.michelin.co.uk/visa-autumn-2018-uk/

Thank you. No doubt I will be back with more questions after having a look with the multimeter tomorrow.

The nearside indicator causes brake lights to flash in time. offside works correctly. There is a ryder towbar component spliced into the wiring which contains a beeper that also goes off in time. Any ideas on how best to tackle this? I did replace the hazard button unit (aftermarket brand) to cure another problem a while ago. It isn't a problem with the bulbs or their housing because I can remove these and the towbar beeper still still goes off. M

Brand new in original box. £40

Oops forgot! I will take some tomorrow. M

Now doing 25k plus miles a year and have no time to do my own mechanicals on the car as when not working am a carer. I am seriously thinking of getting rid of the car. Approx 140k Although the car is solid no rust etc. it is in quite a state having been used to carry my surfboards and work tools for 5 years and the odd very low speed prang. However when anything has worn out or gone wrong I have replaced with better parts and also replaced associated parts like ball joints etc Uprated disks/brakes front and back. Uprated ARB front. Full 3" stainless exhaust with sports cat. New steering rack. Polybush front of car subframe/supension arms. In addition to go on the car I have brand new ready to go on the car the matching rear ARB Oil catch can Haldex competition controller never used still in box Rear wiper motor I broke a rear control arm and spring so was going to replace everything so have new Rear B6 shocks and springs All the polybushes for the rear of the car plus the same in standard bushes Every nut and bolt for the rear of the car (lots are expensive stretch bolts) 4 standard rear control arms and a pair of adjustable ones s/h drop links. It is currently at the garage near my work un-repaired so I can take some pictures next week. Car is too good to scrap as it goes well when not broken. I would like to get back the money for the new parts I have so I am taking a guess at £800 without the Haldex controller. Car is in Pembrokeshire and currently needs a trailer. M Just remembered I have a repair kit for the Haldex pre charge pump. Don't need it but got it ages ago "just in case" I keep coming across parts I bought but never needed so there are wheel bearings, CV joints, fuel filters and service items to go with the car.

seriesdriver Yes it just seemed a ridiculous suggestion aimed to deflect any concerns. M

He looked it up on his computer and wrote it on his business card. I haven,t got as far as test driving the Niro. Due to go in again and maybe look at a Sportage. I expect after 3 years the lease car would subject to some chargeable damage due to nature of roads. Things I would not mend if I owned the car (scuffs,scratches,minor dings) so rather apprehensive of lease deals. If I could find something I liked and fitted the purpose perhaps a PCP would be better and buy the vehicle at the end. Radio 4 Money program say PCP will get more expensive so to get car delivered by the end of the year. Fin69 Thank you for real world examples. Any problems with DPF with the short journeys? Seems lke DPF removal is not so widely advertised on the internet and has become morally unacceptable as well as illegal. As it seems possible to check soot and ash levels through VCDS (which I have ) and the Torque phone app via bluetooth perhaps just keeping an eye on things and go and drive for a regen if necessary. Looks like the later CR can be forced to regen when stationary. Not sure about CR Scouts and if they are subject to the VAG software 'fix' . I would want to know if the car had had it done . Maybe VCDS gives enough information or perhaps main dealers could tell me. M

Thank you. M.

trying to get snapped rear upper control arm and spring repaired before the christmas period. My usual method is to repair and improve the car at the same time as things wear and break. So I have the opportunity to also replace all the bushes and control arms and uprated ARB (all of which parts I have). I am looking at replacing the rear shocks at the same time with Bilstein B6 keeping ride hight the same. Ideally I would like to just do the rear shocks. certainly in the time period I would not be able to get the fronts done with matching B6. So would it be dangerous to only do the rears? Mark