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fuzzybunny

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  • Location
    South Somerset, UK

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  • Model
    Yeti Elegance 170

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  1. Thanks, JR that looks a great suggestion to force the clutch to disengage, my car is 4x4 though so would need to have the rear wheels on a roller I suspect.
  2. Thanks Guys, Last Monday when I last used the car I went through several floods around here in Somerset, only slowly in 2nd gear of course and no deeper than 9 inches. The next day was when the clutch wouldn't disengage, so I wonder if water had caused the problem but not sure how? Just before I went away for a few days , I tried one of the suggestions above. I started the engine to warm it up, turned off the engine, put into 2nd gear and started the engine with the clutch depressed. The car jumped forward for a few yards, then I braked to stop it going onto next door's hedge, (they wouldn't like that). Made no difference though, the clutch was still stuck. I have been away for a few days, back now and just tried it and 'hey presto' everything is back to normal, drove it up and down the road so hopefully problem solved. Taking her in for the MoT on Tuesday, so hopefully all OK for then. Thanks again, guys.
  3. Thanks everyone, I'll try what you suggest and let you know, I'm away from home at the mo so back on Monday. Cheers
  4. 11 years old, 82,000 but now only down to 2-3k a year
  5. Hi All, Car was driving fine on Monday but tried to drive off today and despite depressing clutch I couldn't get it into gear. Clutch felt fine and depressing it allowed me to start the engine as normal but seems it wasnt disengaging. Does this mean a clutch failure? Thanks
  6. Thanks for this, I have the 170 as well, all OK so far after 80,000 miles. Will keep a look out.
  7. Hi All, So in the end it was £240 for rear discs and pads. Sadly, the handbrake caliper and cables all needed replacement as well, so the total cost was £402. Plus side is a year's MOT and vastly improved brakes and handbrake.
  8. Thanks Guys, I have tried hard braking but looking at the disks there is only a half inch wide clear part of the disc, the rest is rust, cant seem to remove it. Quite dramatic, really not sure how it got so bad. My local garage who did the MOT, (who I trust), have quoted around £160 to replace the rear discs. They can do that and retest before Xmas so all good. Probably pay extra for pads at the same time. Cheers
  9. Thanks Guys for the advice. My Local Škoda dealer in Yeovil quoted me £311.53. Except they are fully booked up till 16th January, (doh!), and my MOT expires on the 1st. I'll have a shop around.
  10. Hi All, Just failed the MOT first time after 8 years, so can't complain with 76k on the clock., Rear brakes disk were quite rusty, so fair enough. Anyone had theirs replaced along with new pads, if so any idea of cost at an independent not a Skoda dealer. Cheers
  11. Hi All, Just have my 4x4 MoT done last week on a rolling road rig and passed OK I didn't see it done, (and I know I should have asked, doh!), but I'm assuming they use a similar system to this one in the video. They did quote the figures for front a rear brakes so assuming they couldn't have used a Tapley. Hope this helps, Cheers
  12. Yes you are right, checked this morning and the Varta battery indicator is now showing a fault. (see pic) Booked in this week for a new battery. Good to hear from you Llanigraham, think you have been on this forum for longer than me and that's 10 years! Cheers,
  13. I had just checked the oil level the day before so knew it was OK. Is there an easy way to check fault codes without any kit?
  14. Thanks for this. The battery was checked with a voltmeter think it was 11.8 when it was nearly flat and was showing 14 .5 when the engine was running and charging. I think you are right though it's probably a poor battery its the same age as the car. Can I check fault codes myself easily?
  15. Hi All, Yeti wouldn't start today, battery flat and I had lent out my jump leads (doh!) so called out the home start and they started it straight away with a power pack. they checked the battery and found it OK and the alternator was charging OK but the car has been left for 10 days (it has done 71,000 miles) So as advised let it run for 20 mins then took it on a 40 mile round trip. Battery was charging OK as far as I could tell but the engine warning light came on. Water temp was 90C and oil temp 95C and the oil level was fine so not sure why it came on. Any ideas what it might be? Sounds like I need to take it to Skoda for a connection to their diagnostics. Happy days!
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