myjalopy

It's the 1.3 Skoda engine, noisy pushrods and various leaks but has never let me down. The rest of the car is fallling apart each year at MOT time, but always comes out with a pass ( subject to varying degrees of money directed at it).😉

The engine in my Felicia is excellent. Oil change?...can't remember when I did it last. Coolant leaking everywhere, but it has been getting me to work and back for 10 years now. Can't fault it.

LOL

Hi Ricardo I'm relaxed, but in addition to the carburetor clanger, this earlier over-reaction to a new member erroneously posting in the 'wrong' thread, suggests to me that you might need to relax a bit more. The 'fau paix' had been addressed already and needed no further input. Apologies if I have offended you, but after a while away from the forum, I was surprised to see how new members were being treated.

Quote: "Exactly as I thought. Your car has nothing to do with this topic, Felicia 1.3 with engine on carburetor. Your engine is fuel injected. It says clearly 1.3 MPi (Multi Point Injection). In fact I doubt there is even a single Felicia on carburetor in the UK. " ...RicardoM Jeez Ricardo, a bit harsh don't you think? Since when was it a thread about carburetor models only? ****(FELICIA/FAVORIT APPRECIATION THREAD)****

Rain has stopped me in my tracks since my last posting, so I've acheived nothing yet. I did drop into another garage this morning on my travels and they also did the 'sniffer' test on a hot engine this time. Oddly, the readings were dramatically different to before. They barely moved past 150 (ppm?) whereas before they were sky high. I know the test was done correctly, because I was there and put my hand over the expansion tank filler hole as the probe was put just inside the neck to make sure it wasn't measuring thin air. The chap still said that it 'indicated' a HG failure though. Yet again, Steel Seal was suggested! I know it sounds like I'm trying to avoid hard work ( maybe I am ) but how can the readings vary so much?

So pulling the manifold off with the cylinder head is not recommended? Blow torch, don't have one. Acetone and ATF, I can get. Time is the other commodity that I don't really have, so will have to work around that one. I'll let you all know how it went.

OK, first hurdle. I was just looking at potential issues with this and see that the exhaust manifold bolts are seized. The only bolts that are accesible it seems, are at the metal gauze gasket end, even then they seem quite solid too. I'm considering cutting the downpipe and doing it without taking the manifold off. Then put a joiner that I've seen online on the pipe afterwards. Daft idea or workable?

Hi chaps. I know what I should do, but I have been weighing up the benefits of doing it. My old Felicia has done me proud, but at the last MOT there were several issues that were unlikely to pass next time - most of the brake lines and a steering joint are two that I remember. Replacing brake lines isn't a job I'm happy to mess with, although I have in the past. That means the expense of paying a garage to do it. The costs start to add up. Now a HG and radiator, cheapish but an additional cost. Over the next year, I could be looking at hundreds of pounds just to keep it going. The bodywork is not too good, but mostly cosmetic at the moment, although the rear wings have gone through around the arches. I am more than happy to replace the HG myself. I've read some of the stories here and elsewhere and It doesn't seem as complicated as it sounds. The outlay is reasonable, less than £100 for the HG, bolts, coolant and a new radiator and doesn't involve scrabbling around under the car - much. Maybe I will give it a go......

Why not? I was sceptical but have read so many positive reviews compared to negative ones.

Went to the garage today and they put the 'sniffer' to work ( as suggested by RicardoM, cheers.). The readings started out at 2100+ on the hydrocarbons, but when he pulled the nozzle out onto the edge of the expansion tank filler hole, they hovered around 700. The engine wasn't as hot as it could be, but he said that anything over 100 is fairly clear it's a HG issue. They suggested using 'steel seal' as a temporary fix but really the HG needs to be done. I reckon I could have a go at doing it...

I'll take a couple of beers down to my local garage and see if they'll oblige.

Hi. still replacing coolant on a weekly basis ( 80 miles ) so I decided to get some pressure in the expansion tank by using an old cap that fitted, made a small hole and attaching a tyre inflator to it with some araldite around the valve/hole. Crude but effective. I didn't notice anything unusual except the bottom pipe coming from the expansion tank showed some weeping. Upon inspection, I noticed that it may have been doing it for some time as there was dampness running along the 'ledge' below it. Since then I have noticed that this pipe weeps more often than not. I have also noticed that there is a slight whoosh of air when I remove the cap even when the engine is cold. Over the last couple of weeks the engine is lumpy, like it's only on three cylinders, when started in the morning or after work. It soon goes away after a minute.

A new radiator is around £30, if that's what it is.

Hi Ken, it's the original all metal one it seems. I must say that replacing the rad. is a better option than some of the other possible leak areas. Weird why it's not damp though.

Had to top up again yesterday, so had another look around and there is a pink stain on the edge of the radiator coming from the top. hadn't noticed it before. It isn't wet or damp, just dry powder but clearly shouldn't be there. I'll try to put some pressure into the system as per your suggestion RM, see if it forces anything out of the stained area on the radiator.

Thanks.

Checked it tonight after it had been sat for 12+ hours. No loss apparent yet, but too dark to make any leak observations other than already done. Another thread mentions looking for pressure in the expansion tank in the morning after use, but none observed this morning or this evening after 12 hrs at work. I'll monitor it over the next few days and then do a proper check in the daylight.

Hi Ricardo I will do a more thorough check, but so far there is no obvious leak. Ive checked the places you mention briefly earlier today and I'd expect to see pink powder or pink fluid there, but nothing. I'll check it again after a run tomorrow.

Oh dear. Just found this thread after posting a similar one just now. I'll check the cap for pressure/expanded tank in the morning.

I've noticed over the past few months that I need to top up the coolant on my Felicia more often than did. There are no obvious leaks, no mayonaisse under the oil cap, no steam from the exhaust. Temp. gauge works as it should, ie; not going above it's normal mark, but it does seem to take longer to heat up the cabin though. The speed at which the blowers got nice and hot has always been a good point until now. I haven't checked the coolant for a few weeks, but after the snowy weather here, I thought I'd better start her up and see if all is well after being sat in the snow for 4 days. The coolant reservoir was empty! It took 1.8 litres to get it back to betweeen the min and max marks. There is no clear cause as to where it's going, any suggestion?

Good point. I may have overlooked the 'door shut' bit.

Recently the batt light started to stay on as before, so taking the easy option I fitted a new voltage regulator as the carbon brushes were quite worn on one side and it's instantly cured. Been fine since. Thanks all.

The card comes off easily as Ricardo says, just screws on the door handle and some clips around the door panel. I had a similar problem ages ago and simply swapped the passenger door lock to the drivers side until I could get another lock ( never did). Once you start, it's alll straightforward and you can see what's what, which is why these cars are so good to work on.

I like my Felicia because I can do this: ...and it doesn't complain. Then I drive it each day to work, through floods, mud and all, it still doesn't complain. Each MOT is a pass ( mostly) but a cheap fix if it doesn't. Bless 'im.