scottyboy

Thanks very much Lee. I had been looking at those but wasn't sure if they were too cheap! Good advice for the bump stops too, was hoping someone would make a recommendation like that. Thanks Damian. I think I will be ordering these before too long. Do you do the bump stops for the rear and top mounts for the front?

Hi All, I am asking this on here as pretty much all searches bring up items relevant only to the VRS. My Comfort has now completed 110000 miles and the suspension is starting to feel pretty poor. Is now splashly, doesn't seem to track very true over bumps and generally just seems to have lost some composure. Still straight and true though so think the suspension is just tired. My question is, can I fit VRS kit to lower it a little, sharpen it up and gain some more composure? Or are there any other recommendations? I don't want to turn it into a sports car, and I like having a fairly comfortable car but it would be nice to not have a car that looks like it is on stilts, and to gain some slightly better handling. All advice gratefully accepted, Thanks.

Thanks for the response, something like a pic would be perfect. I have a replacement part here ready to go on, the time and the willingness to take a hammer to the car are all that's lacking!

Thanks for post but that thread doesn't actually help me at all. I have tried all tricks to unlock the door but this is a no go so I have to change the lock with the door shut. I have seen in a couple of posts that you have to chisel the door lock off but I can't see how this will best be achieved so I was hoping that someone with this experience could give some pointers.

Has anyone else got anything to add to this? I have a replacement door lock now and need to get this changed but I don't really know where to start when it comes to getting the old lock out.

I have checked all cables. There doesn't seem to be any issues with the electrical cables going to the lock. The cable to the external handle seems OK and doesn't seem too tight and the cable from the internal handle is still attached and working the mechanism, but the lock won't disengage. VAGCOM is showing that lock is in Safe Mode. Cheers.

Hi All. I have a Skoda Fabia 1.9TDI 03 model and the front passenger door is in Safe mode. I have managed to take off the door trim and mostly remove the window carrier but the lock will not unlock at all. Firstly, and I think I already know the answer, is there any way to get the door lock to release? If as I suspect there is no way then I guess I have to forcibly remove the lock with a chisel. I have read about many people having to do this but my question is how exactly do I chisel the lock? Where do I hit and are we just trying to destroy the whole lock motor? Lastly, does anyone know the part number for the replacement. I know this has been asked many times but i haven't been able to find out these details with any clarity so thanks for any replies.

that sounds like a pretty good buy to me. all the work that has been done is fairly standard and i'd be quite happy with that price. in terms of mileage mines done 68000 miles and feels like new, although is a diesel. a friend of mine has just cleared 200k in a 1.4 with no major issues, as long as the services are done these cars last. i'd suggest getting the v5 reference no and checking the mot's on the direct.gov website just to help verify mileage. www.motinfo.gov.uk/ these cars do suffer some common faults such as door leaks, heater issues and electrical issues due to water ingress, doors and heaters are simple but other electrical issues can get expensive so be sure to chech it out carefully. great car though so i hope this turns out to be what your after.

If it's a comms problem, which sounds most likely to me, does that mean a new panel or an issue with the actual wiring?

Thanks for the replies. I have checked the temp sensor on the panel and cleaned, still no joy though. More symptoms - The motor responds sporadically when going up the temp control, but will not respond in the way down until fully cold. When it is at fully cold the motor will click like it wants to go further, but can't. I get the impression that will burn the motor out sooner or later! I have now run about 20 Basic settings, strangely one of them worked and showed zero. The rest were resolutely on 255. This leads me to believe it is the panel. How does VAGcom control the motor? Is it via the panel or should VAGcom still correctly control the motor if the panel is malfunctioning?

I've run the motor through basic settings but it just stays stuck on 255. I can watch the motor as i adjust the temperature control, it goes to cold, then if i click it 2 steps up it goes fully the other way. It's like the motor has only 2 steps programmed. It doesn't sporadically switch between hot and cold without being touched, the motor just doesn't pick up the middle positions between hot and cold. Another wierd thing is that the fault code for the V68 motor has now cleared and i'm left with one for the recirc motor as below, i know that motor works though. 2 Faults Found: 01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154) 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154) 55-00 - Adaptation Not Successful Would this still point to the temp sensor? And where is this mysterious sensor?

I have the dreaded heater problem whereby it will go from the extreme cold to extreme hot with nothing in between. I have changed the V68 temp flap motor but the same problem persists (ps you can change the motor WITHOUT taking the dash out, just remove the lower trim panel). I have run basic settings on VAGcom and interestingly the only value it ever shows is 255, i understand this should show 0 as standard. I think the AC switch and recirc buttons work, VAGcom shows the compressor comes on with the AC switch and the recirc switch definitely works as you can hear it. Strangely though all the values on basic setting show 255 which seems odd to me. Where is the next place i should look? Does it look like the control panel is knackered even though only it is the temp giving me issues? I desperately need help with this guys as the motor cost me £80 and now seems like a waste of money and i definitely wont go to the stealers!! Thanks in advance from a desperate man!!

There has to be a pedantic one!! Dead right though obviously!

Auric, I'm not sure you are intorely right. A car would come out of the dealership with a generic map that the manufacturer has produced for that engine. That engine will then produce on average the stated amount of horsepower. This figure is always affected by tolerances with the engine other factors which means your car will virtually never produce the stated horsepower, it will sometimes be more and sometimes less. When a company puts a generic map on a car then the same principal applies, the map will produce an average gain. In your example the car with 130hp may go to 160 and the car with 145 will probably produce more on the generic map. If a car is put on the rolling road once or twice while being tuned then the chances are you are only getting a generic tune anyway. To produce a trully specific map the the car would have to be put through many, many runs at many varying throttle inputs to get the parameters dead right for your car. Two runs at only full throttle is not enough to write a properly customized map, you would probably just get a lightly adjusted generic map. Anyway a generic map is the result of many hours of tuning to one car to produce a map that works with that model so is probably 95% right anyway. The cowboys probably just whack the boost pressure up without adjusting the map much, you still get the power gains but not much else! The two Fabia's probably produce different power because Skoda produced a new map for the car from the factory, in which case Angel or someone similar would produce a new map from that base.

This link is also quite interesting as it disagrees with the previous! This reply suggests that the whole lower dash section has to come out! Hmmm! http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/85420-heater-flap-position-motor/page__p__1042088__hl__heater%20flap%20motor__fromsearch__1entry1042088 Scott