Regorip

Thanks munrorunner.

My 2010 170 Yety has performed perfectly since new and I have decided against the fix. I have been using a DTUK box for the last couple of years with enjoyable results. May I ask you, munrorunner, which program you prefer? I tend to use no. 3 (no+'s or -'s) as it seems the smoothest - No1. is also ok but I find no.2 a bit vicious.

The displays on my Yeti remain tied to whichever ignition key was in use at the time of setting up. i.e. change key and display changes.

2. Annoying sound. My yeti had an annoying (but not alarming) plasticky clunck-clunck, seeming to originate from the rear under similar circumstances. After much exasperating research over several months the dealer discovered it was a rear door catch very slightly out of adjustment. Adjusted free of charge!

Greetings all, For some time I've been considering updating from my 2010 170 manual Yeti to a 170 DSG . As there is no hurry (current Yeti only has 35000 km over 4 years) I would like to sound forum opinion about any forthcoming upgrades but mainly about the introduction of Euro 6 standard engines. I think that Audi already offer a Euro 6 version of the 1968 cc diesel in some models. Will the current Yeti be overlooked for the time being? Thanks Regor

Pedal return spring?

Well done. My Alpins (16 rim size) will soon be fitted for their second winter. A good choice all round!

Thanks for the graphs Prodata - nice work! You mentioned the possibility of harshness in acceleration of the 170 CR. I have no previous experience of diesels (either turbo or non), but have owned a turbo petrol and I don't find the 170 CR at all harsh in accelaration - just a decisive and continuous push in the back up to 3500 rpm (my max for the moment). I find the car very responsive and so far, ( only done 2000 km ) a sheer pleasure to drive. RP

I have something similar with my 170. Not a regular mechanical noise - more like some small object rattling around in a box. Can just be heard from the drivers seat and on investigation (nothing too detailed so far) seems to be in the front right hand corner of the engine compartment. Noise not discernable when engine warms up which is why I've not been back to the dealer so far. I shall now try to get it checked out, although it probably means leaving the vehicle overnight to reproduce the symptoms.

The variety in these car owner/custodian histories makes it interesting that we have found common ground in the Yeti. Here's mine for what its worth. Clearly the earlier ones were not new. (years relate to car build not ownership) 1948 Vauxhall Velox - 2.2 ? 6 cylinder, front bench seat, column change which usually selected the 3 gears in random order. 1955 Sunbeam Talbot Mk 3 2.4 litre - lovely car. 1964 Triumph Spitfire with overdrive - great fun but with a dangerous rear suspension design. 1967 Sunbeam Alpine 1750 - nice car but a bit underpowered even in those days. 1965 Sunbeam Tiger - Alpine with power problem resolved by Ford 4.2 V8 which necessitated improvements to suspension + limited slip diff. 1970 Ford Cortina 2000 GT 1972 Triumph 2500 PI with overdrive. 1977Alfa Romeo 1.8 Giulietta 1981 Audi 80 1984 BMW 320 1987 Rover 820 Sterling 1990 Alfa Romeo 164 Turbo 1996 Fiat Bravo 1600 ! ( Surprisingly enough its done its job well and has been very reliable, but at 176000 km I think its done enough) 2010 Yeti 170

My first Skoda and first 4x 4. Chose it because at the time it seemed to be the only reasonably priced Euro 5 in this type of vehicle. (Apart from all the good write ups its had)

Are these the ones? They cost me about 150 Euros the set - a bit expensive really. regards RP

Thanks Agerbundsen - I'll just have to use some other arguement to get a free compressor and goop out of my dealer! (necessary in my opinion for eventual female drivers) regards RP

May I ask the price of the spare wheel kit? Was it the same as that charged when ordering the vehicle? ( Mine cost 60 Euro but then they did not give me the compressor and goop)

Welcome!