Mcdubber1

Oh right. Not got the part number as I've not yet removed it. Thanks for the info

I have an 02 plate 110 tdi which has a suspected dodgy turbo, sticky nozzles likey as boost comes and goes. I bought a 110 tdi A4 with the same engine code with a snapped timing belt to get a few parts off including the turbo and break the rest. Someone said to me yesterday that the turbo's won't be compatible because in his experience on transversely ( Skoda ) mounted engines the turbo and manifold were all one piece where as on longitudinal (Audi ) mounted engines the turbo and manifold are are two separate pieces. I've had a look and both look to be the same but I'd need to remove a few bits from the Octavia to get better access to have a proper look. I thought being the same engines they'd just use the same turbo set up even though they are mounted different ways? Can anyone confirm or deny this? The turbo on the A4 doesn't look all that old so I'm hoping they're compatible. Cheers

You'd be better off installing a CAI and probably uprated fuel pump along with TIP and bigger intercooler

Yes the bottom part of my door card was/is damp. I've sealed the rear door up pretty well now and also done the front door too. There's been a bit of rain and the carpets seem to be dry which is a relief, it took 3 days to dry it out properly with a fan heater. I still need to bolt the seats back in which I'll likely do tomorrow. The passenger side carpets were very slightly damp so I'll whip the cards off sometime and have a wee look there. I hope to god that i e fixed the problem, it seems good so far but time will tell.

Edited I didn't read it correctly

Well I changed my module and had it coded to the car but it hasn't solved the problem unfortunately. The doors still lock and unlock randomly, infact it's even worse now. My dad left my house the other night and then came back in saying that my locks we're going mental, I disconnected it so as not to drain the battery. On the plus side my interior lights work now with the doors. I've currently got both front seats out the car with the carpets and sound deadening lifted with a heater in there drying it out. They were unbelievably soaked. I'm hoping that once all is dried out and the doors sealed up again with new membranes that I see an improvement. I'm going on the theory that the dampness inside the car will probably be causing all sorts of problems to the electrics. I think there is a problem with both passabger side door locks though. The rear door won't lock at all with the central locking and the front door lock but immediately unlocks itself again. Everybody keeps telling me how great these cars are and how they ran them for years and years without any problem, I've had no end of problems in the couple of months I've had it. I don't mind so much though because I got it for a really good price. Lol

There isn't really any inexpensive options for what you want. Your best option would probably be a set of Koni FSD shocks mated to your standard springs. That will sharpen up your handling whilst improving comfort and retaining your current ride height. They'll cost around £500 or so though.

I've currently got both my front seats out and the carpets and sound deadening lifted up with a heater in there drying mine out. They were really soaked. Both my drivers side doors had no membranes at all which is most likely the cause.

I also have the same fault which is also intermittent. I done the mr muscle in the turbo but didn't move the actuator while it was I there so will have to do it again. I also cleaned the egr while i was at it. Not touched the n75 yet. Temp sensor and maf all that it runs a bit better but there's still an issue. Strange thing is though that now the fault code doesn't show up on vcds which is odd considering there's still a fault.

Great thanks. I'll probably just go for a new pattern part if its required.

Could come in handy for my other VAG cars too!

Did you replace it with new or used, genuine or non genuine? I think mine will probably need changed aswell and I could easily change just the micro switch on its own but it looks like a lot of faffing about so would probably change the whole lock mech. They can be obtained ed on eBay for under 20 quid but m not sure if they'd be all that great?

I never knew about that website thanks for introducing me to it but I was thinking today some plastic sheet would do the job and probably work out a hell of a lot cheaper. Unfortunately I can't see the window seal I'm after. Are parts on there cheaper than from a dealer or generally the same price?

I was just thinking today that some plastic sheeting would do the job. I've not had any of the passenger side door cards off yet so I don't know if the membrains are still in place it not. I'll go pick some up tomorrow and give it a bash.

I'll start off by saying that I know where my water leak is coming from but I have a couple of questions. At first I thought it was either coming in the front drivers side door or the bulkhead area but I cleared out the bulkhead today which wasn't really all that bad and removed the door card for the second time ( I have the common central locking issue aswell but that's in hand ) but it was still dry. So still unsure of where it was coming from I was inside the car after soaking the drivers side down with a hose and noticed a small puddle forming at the bottom of the drivers side rear door so I removed the door card and acts feet g it a few more times I noticed it coming in through the door handle and also through the seal at the bottom of the window but is particularly bad where the two rear windows split and is dripping down the metal devider quite a lot. Also both front and rear door do not have membrains. So my questions are Can the membrains be bought separately from the dealer? The rear seal I assume you can buy and I will but where it leaks the most down the metal devider the seal has a gap either side because there is no cut out for the metal bar so won't the new seal just leak here the same as the old one? The rear handle I'll remove once I've found a guide and have a shot at making water tight again with some sealer unless anyone has a better solution? Thanks in advance folks.