Bomi

Update : I had the car scanned at the stealers and they recommended changing the N50 valve as its neck was partly broken. That did no good. Thereafter they changed the fuel filter as I had not changed it for over a year. That too did not cure the jerking. Ultimately, they diagnosed a rogue coil on Cylinder 3 and after changing that, everything is fine. The stealer was recommending changing all 4 coils but I had had enough of their experiments. Is there any merit in changing all the coils given that the car has done 57K kms and is now 7 years old? Thanks Bomi

Thanks, Gents. Will do a scan and TB cleaning. Cheers.

Thanks Phil. Will check the hoses. Given that the idling is rock steady at 800 rpm I thought that the MAF, coils and spark-plugs are good. Is that a correct presumption?

Hi there. Anyome have a suggestion? Thanks.

A couple of monhs ago I had installed Powerflex suspension + dogbone mount bush on my vRS (56000 kms). The resultant vibrations did reduce after the bushes bedded down, but on poor Indian roads the ride quality was jarring. So I had the bushes changed back to stock (new ones) by a dealer. The dealer also changed the plenum support (the part on which the dogbone bushes sit). And also my tie-rods as he claimed they were busted. Now when I accelerate in second gear from low revs of around 1500, the car jerks once (as if the wheels and the engine are disconected for a split second), before picking up speed. Once it crosses 2000 revs, there is no jerking. Similarly, when I lug the engine a wee bit, after braking(revs around 13-1500), this jerking occurs. If I race the engine in neutral, there is no faltering in the RPM rise; also the idle RPM is rock-steady. Is this clutch slippage? The clutch pedal feels absolutely normal and all gear changes are smooth. If the clutch is slipping, what parts should be replaced (fly wheel, clutch plate, pressure plate)? My charcoal canister also has a broken plastic spout on which I have done a patch job (see attachment-I have used RobClubley's picture), to prevent the ECP light coming on. Is that the cause of this jerking? Appreciate anyones help. Bomi

Thank you all for your feedback. To answer questions, which I can, as my technical knowledge is zero, the clutch pedal and bite point does not feel any different. So,as advised, I will wait for another 500 miles to see if things improve. Sorry for my lateish reply; was outstation. Cheers.

I have an Octavia vRS 1 which has clocked 55K KMS. The car is completely standard and my daily use is just about 20 kms. As the car was 5 years old (bought it new), I recently had a private garage fit the following Powerflex bushes: 1. Front wishbone inner bush (both front and rear) 2. ARB link bushes 3. Engine Dogbone mount 4. Rear Beam mounting bushes The garage also drained and replaced the clutch/brake hydraulic fluid as they claimed they had to drain the old fluid to fit the bushes. My car now has two problems: 1. it judders when taking off from standstill. One way to avod the judder, I have discovered is, to very slowly release the clutch pedal without giving gas and once the car is crawling, feed gas. However, in traffic stop-start conditions this is not always possible (as the guy behind will be honking to death; yes in India we honk at the drop of a hat). At speed, the car seems fine; the problem surfaces when one is starting off from standstill. 2. There are vibrations and a drone on cold-start. They seem to be coming from the car's rear. The vibrations and drone reduce once the engine is warmed up but are definitely more than before this job was done. I am looking for advise from the forum: have the new bushes been torqued too much or too less? is the draining and refilling of clutch/brake fluid the cause. Bomi

Mattymoo, was reading your thread because I wanted to search for a solution to my problem. My vRS has clocked 49K KMs and when I drive over cobble-stones or a broken road, I can feel up-down play in the steering wheel and also hear a knocking sound. Its absoluteley fine on a smooth road. A friend suggested it couuld be tie-rod ends or ball joint. Did you have a simailar problem which was solved by changing the front suspension top mount bearings?

My low fuel beeper and light would keep going on and off as soon as the fuel dropped to about 1/4th. I did the following, based on advise given on this forum: Lift rear seat cushion (the portion behind the driver) Unscrew 3 screws on a round hatch which gives access to the fuel level sender unit Clean the gunk out gently from around the sensor Tap the two sensors lightly Squirt WD 40 That cured my problem.

My vRS (Octavia 1) has completed around 45,000 kms. My nephew and I service it ourselves after its warranty was over. In India, Skoda does not sell spares to customers, so servicing becomes a pain. I am likely to visit UK next week and want to pick up the following parts : Oil filter Petrol filter Air filter Pollen filter Oil filter drain plug gasket Throttle body gasket Front driver side floor mat with vRS logo and locking tabs (plastic) Radiator mounts I also need to replace all bushes of my front and rear suspension (16" wheels in India) as the car does not feel as tight as before while cornering. I had Koni FSD shocks fitted a year ago. I require help with part numbers of the above items and a recommendation of where to buy them from. While in the UK I will be in Basildon so a dealership nearby or a parts vendor who can ship the parts to my hotel would be ideal. Thank you. Bomi

Can someone post a picture of where exactly the turbo is on a MK I vRS? Thanks.

Thanks Ken. Is this adjustment done via VAGCOM or mechanically? I am trying to guage what are the chances of the self-levelling mechanism getting completely fouled up by the dealer.

I have another problem after fitting Koni FSDs and want to check with you. I used the standard springs and now find that the xenons which used to light up the road brilliantly are not very effective. They are self-levelling and I am wondering if there is a way to set them higher so that more of the road ahead is visible. Thanks. Bomi.

Gents, many thanks for your reply. I had to go out of town suddenly, and read your replies today. Cheers.

After a service, I was having the engine bay of my RS pressure washed; when fallen near the front bumper I noticed a black plastic cap sort of a thing with a spline in the centre. Its around 1/2" in diameter and again about 1/2" deep. On top is the VW/Audi logo and the serial no. 014.301.485. Can anyone tell me where it could have come from? Thanks. Bomi.

Can you elaborate please. Do I bleed the clutch first and then the brakes or the other way round? I have read on this forum that they share the same oil reservoir. If I have to bleed the clutch where do I start? Thank you.

This was the post which helped solve my problem. It doesn't say anything about removing the sensor from the tank, but you could try gently tapping the sensor as suggested below. http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/petrol-gauge-not-indicating-fuel-level/34565/

The Koni India dealer explained the difference between Koni FSD 2100-4019 and 2100-4048 to me, thus: "For your information, both the shock absorbers are same in terms of dimensions, stroke, length, travel, forces etc. The only difference is the anti roll bar bracket and attachments on the shocks, which do not get used in the car being sold in India." Meaning the 4048 has the ARB bracket, the 4019 does not.

The following information which I gleaned from this forum helped me when I had a similar problem. My low fuel light would also come on and off intermittently and the only way to guage whether I had fuel or not was to keep a track of the kms run on the trip meter. Lift the rear seat bottom cushion up (the one behind the drivers seat) and you will see an oval shaped hatch with 3 screws in it which provides access to the fuel gauge sensor. Undo the 3 screws and open the hatch. There will be a considerable amount of accumulated dirt on the fuel gauge sensor. Clean gently around it. Gently tap the two prongs going into the tank ( I used the plastic handle of the screwdriver). Squirt WD 40 on the sensor and close the hatch. If this does not solve the problem, a new fuel gauage sensor could be required.

Thanks, gents. Martin the noise is not a squeak. Its more like a faint thump-thump, when the car bounces over a rough surface. Mind you if I press the clutch pedal at that moment, the noise almost is not there. And its from the front.

Thanks Ken, Well the bottom end of the radiator can be moved back and forth (not up and down) by almost an inch. I have wedged some rubber underneath to minimize the movement but still get the sound. Do you think its the radiator? And where is the dogbone mount located?

Come on guys...give me your thoughts. My vRS has clocked 40K kms (25K miles) and is completely stock except for fitting Koni FSD shock absorbers. My problems: 1. while driving over a surface, where the tar has formed ridges, making the car bounce a bit, I can hear a noise from the front as if something was loose in the engine bay or suspension. However, if I press the clutch in, the noise is not there. 2. if I brake sharply, there is a slight pull towards the right. I have tightened the engine mounting bolts and had noticed this problem even before I fitted the Konis. What is the likely cause? Thank you. Bomi PS. In India, the vRS was sold with 16" wheels.

My vRS has clocked 40K kms (25K miles) and is completely stock except for fitting Koni FSD shock absorbers. My problems: 1. while driving over a surface, where the tar has formed ridges, making the car bounce a bit, I can hear a noise from the front as if something was loose in the engine bay or suspension. However, if I press the clutch in, the noise is not there. 2. if I brake sharply, there is a slight pull towards the right. I have tightened the engine mounting bolts and had noticed this problem even before I fitted the Konis. What is the likely cause? Thank you. Bomi PS. In India, the vRS was sold with 16" wheels.

Just wanted to thank everyone for the advise. I have fitted only the Koni FSDs and am enjoying them. My car feels more taut then before, in city driving. Haven't had the time to do any spirited turns yet. Cheers. Bomi.

I have a vRS which has run 38K kms. In India the vRS is sold with 16" wheels. Car is completely stock and I am having 4 KONI FSDs fitted (Koni part no. 2100-4019). Is there anything else that I should have changed at the same time? My stock suspension was not giving any problems, just read a lot about how good the KONI FSDs are and hence the change. Thanks.