NicholasD

Hi Brodo, Thanks for your reply. Since the brake pad had come away from the backing I think the heat had previously burnt off the grease. Leaving the potential for the slider to have welded to the bore. I can't deal with car being off road unfortunately so I bit the bullet and bought from TPS. 210 for both sides, carriers only. It's the worst 210 I have ever spent but I feel happy that I'm going to get the part tomorrow, stick it on the car and be done with it. I will take the carriers off and see if I can remove the pin, if I can and it's all good I will clean them up, get a refurb kit and stick them on here should anyone need. Glad I found why I was 10mpg down and it's been quiet fun working on the car again

Http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/301987-vrs-front-brake-drag-guide-pin-issue/ Found the above that confirms what you have said Dan. It's strange, the force that it is held in made it feel like it held in with a circlip. Will have to get new carriers then I guess!

Hi all, Looking for some advice. Took the front brake off the fabia to sort out a new discs and pads. Checked for smooth movement on the top and bottom carrier slide pins and only the top moves. Is this normal? The bottom can be rotated but not moved in and out? Drivers side, 2004 fabia VRS. Any advice appreciated

Sounds good, can you PM me your PayPal and a picture of the window motor showing the part number label and SK code? Thanks

Drivers window motor if both Windows were working OK?

Hi, Front window motors - £10 ea collected - £15 ea posted Possible to get the passenger front window motor, posted (whats the mileage on the car?) - if so please pm me your paypal/BACS? Assume its the same complete assembly as seen http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-fabia-passenger-window-motor-6Y2959801-/161332208289?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25902622a1 Thanks!

Hi all, I wonder if anyone has had any experience with blacksmoke , pd-developments (Lee Metcalf) , Hidden-power ? Both blacksmoke & pd-developments (can do duel map through VCDS switch) look as though they take OEM map 130-165bhp nominally. So I assume the maps have been created and they are applied generically. Which is obviously fine and they are both comparable on cost. Hidden-power (duel map possibility too) actually tailor you a map dependent on what you want from your original map - clearly this is done remote from vehicle but tuned by looking at VCDS logs. Clearly you are paying for someones time so they are circa double the cost. Has anyone had a map from any of these companies and then had a dyno run? Or daily running experience (mpg/drive ability etc)? Thanks! Nick

Your being paranoid! Mine was pretty loud - cars didnt move out the way in front though..

No standard VAG, perhaps in a previous owners hands it did? Checked the inlet pipe, small amount of oil from the cam cover breather but that is all.

I got my turbo from Dan in this thread, it was good condition - OEM. You can get the fun you want from a map only - you have a bike, you dont need a fast car. If you plan to keep her for the life of the chassis & engine (400kmiles) then yes a refurb would be best. Standard turbo will last around 120k est. If you have the cash handy I think its worth buying a turbo if your worried now. They are £150 - £180 second hand with reasonable mileage. Will look to sell mine on if you plan to go hybrid. BR, Nick

Got half way through pulling it out (feel near dead at this point) and felt for play - very little up and down and no in and out.. crushing as I had bought a replacement. Thought may as well continue - pulled out to find the compressor blades chewed to pieces - shazzam! The horror that the nuts put my hands through this was the original turbo. I am on 125k. If I was being fastidious I would notice the boost being choppy, I thought however it was due to the compressor catching the inlet housing as when I had my clutch changed at Unit18 their comments were that my map is too aggressive and you can hear the turbo racing away. Enough to melt the front edge of the blade tips? Best get onto Boeing about this one!

BOOM We spend our time reminding ourselves of the negatives that surround us - this one goes to the ground with me as a very lucky point in my life. How that remained balanced and didnt cack itself into the engine I do not know!

Random one - would you have the bolt and rubber bung for the airbox. Infact how much for the air box and bolt etc?! Thanks

If I delete the EGR on my 2004 ASZ - will I get a warning light? I have 'mapped egr to run low' using the usual VCDS method, but obviously this would take it out of the equation completely (leave EGR in place connected up but blank both ends)?

I could not find a guide on replacing the turbo - so I may create one when doing mine. Would be handy to have peoples input as to the swap. The turbo I will be looking at is from a BLT - mine is ASZ so I know I will need EGR blankers. The oil feed can be pesky (BLT & ASZ oil feed in same location once clocked?) so buy a replacement in advance. Clocking - an issue with turbo balance/can be done at home? Gaskets - which ones will I need, given what I will be taking off (in through the top looks like inlet and exhaust manifold (turbo is part of it). Out through the bottom, may struggle for space but it would only be turbo outlet and manifold? Many thanks, Nick

Make sure it fits though - same engine code will be enough

If you know/have a warranty of history - not at all. Assume they last circa 100kmiles

Could I ask, other than EGR (which can be blanked) - is there an issue with turbo inlet angle too? I.e will I be able to use OEM boost pipes to connect up a BLT turbo to my ASZ engine? Thanks, Nick

Any luck with this?

It is controlled by the lock mechanism microswitch in the actual boot lid. Assuming the connectors to the bulb look good (ideally check with multimeter) open the boot up, go at the mechanism with wd40 as your first hope.

Go crazy with some wd40 as your first port of call (could be microswitch 'dry'). Finish up with some lithium barrier grease if you have some success

What happens if you try (key on to full ignition live (key position just just short of cranking) - wait 10 secs, key off) x 3. Wondering if it might be dead glow plugs. Perhaps find someone close to you that can do a fault code scan too

Hi all, My VRS boot unlock has stopped responding to either fob or button... arghh!! If I hold unlock on the fob, the indicators flash (comfort blink) so the vehicle is receiving the command. Fuse 31 is fine I had a look at the boot lock mechanism and sure enough it was a jammed, so I would have assumed the fuse would have gone - but as above no (then greased up the mechanism so its all free again). Next thought was to bridge the electrical connector with a 501 5w bulb to see if any voltage is being applied - again none. So it looks like the power isnt getting sent down to the connector (both wires are showing as chassis grounded) - can anyone tell me if there is a relay I should be looking at (cant find relay diagram anywhere)? VCDS says the car is happy, boot showing as locked when shut - open when open (inc light)... Help!

How much was the sale price.. Bargain of a car!

£20 delivered and you can have the payment as soon as you send me your paypal email (or BACS) Thanks, Nick (Assumingly Huxley is a no go)