stewartbaldwin

Plus one for this fix. It's been driving me nuts for a long time. I raised this some time back on this forum, but never solved the vibration. I took the car to my friendly independent and he spent an hour checking underneath and pulling and prodding, eventually to admit defeat. I tested the cure by placing a large piece of foam on the air intake and closing the bonnet, trapping the foam and securing the air intake. Problem solved! I haven't left the foam there! Yet again, the forum cures faults other people can't find!

Sorry for the delay. As mentioned, the fault reappeared after 4 days, and I tookSsilverman 1011's advice and changed all the bulbs in the left assembly. Everything has worked perfectly since so- hopefully- the problem has gone. I checked the bulbs I took out with a meter and there was no obvious problem in that all the resistences of similar bulbs were about the same. Fingers crossed I have a solution and the forum succeeds again!

Continuing this saga, having swapped some bulbs around reassembling and still having the light showing on the dash, the nex time the car was used, the dash light had gone out! Here we are 4 days later and there is no dash light and the lights all work normally. I changed nothing - just swapped some bulbs around. It suggests there is a dodgy connector somewhere, but where to look?

My light warning came on and I found the left rear lights misbehaving. There are three 21W bulbs in the board, the top one was working and the lower two were not. I replaced the two lower bulbs but the problem persisted. i tried swapping bulbs around, and I always end up with the top one working and the lower two not working. The seperate bayonet bulb is behaving normally, as is the indicator. Does anybody have a solution?

I have the same car, and I bought up this vibration on here a few months ago. Nobody had a specific suggestion at the time, so this may well be the answer. Wagonwheels, do you know what the site was on ebay?

Is there a current discount code available?

There is a strip of rust right down the front edge on my driver side front door. The spray shop thinks it is from a previous repair and suggested that the best option may well be a new door, as rust is almost impossible to eliminate. Does anybody know a good breaker that I can get a door in the right colour? Also, are theFL doors the same as the pre FL doors and is there anything I should be looking out for? As you can probabley see, I live midway between Birmingham and Manchester, so geography may be important for collecting the door.

Sorted! By the time honoured method of suck it and see, I discovered that the missing fuse fits in location 34 and everything works. The peculiar thing is that according to the owners manual, this location is unassigned, and according to the the diagram on the fuse cover, it is for heated seats. Makes no sense, but it works.

I hope someone can help with this one! I have been messing around in the fusebox finding switched supplies to work a dash cam and a socket in the storage box on the top of the dash.I found the switched fuses and piggy backed supplies from them no problem, but I now have no key fob locking and I can't manually open the boot from the outside. I tried the second key fob and tried resetting the codes using the two keys system, with no success. the button on the centre console locks and unlocks the 4 doors and not the tailgate.There may be a connection with my fitting a new battery 4 days ago, but everything worked directly afterwards.The strang thing is that I have ended up with a spare 20amp original fuse and I can't find a home for it! I have been through the fuse list in the owners manual and all the 20amp fuses appear to be installed. Another thread mentions three fuses in the door locking system, and I can only find one. So the questions are:what fuse controls the switch on the tailgate release mechanism, why is the key fob not working and where does the 20 amp fuse go?

No, there is no noise on coasting and the tyres were only fitted earlier this year. I have not checked for sawtoothing yet

Thank you for the replies. I don't think it is a wheel balance problem as it is not road speed dependent - it will occur in the lower gears during acceleration and then disappear. Harder acceleration makes it worse. Sometimes there is a quite a loud booming echo around the cab that sounds like something vibrating at it's natural frequency. This is why I checked for loose sound proofing and heat dispersion panels under the car. I know the sound or vibration can carry, so it may be a problem at the front of the car, but I can't identify any loose panels. I have had no work done to the car recently. The only other clue may be that it started immediately after the car had not been used for five weeks. I know this is like looking for a needle in a haystack, but you never know whether somebody has come across this.

The car has recently started to vibrate under certain conditions and I wonder whether it is a symptom of the DMF. At a steady 2000rpm or thereabouts and when I pull a trailer, there is a distinct vibration from what appears to be the rear of the car. It is always there, but I can drive through it. I have had a poke about under the car and there are no obvious loose panels or play in prop shafts and drive shafts ( 4 wheel drive, remember!) Any suggestions? Having followed various threads, there does not appear to be a single mass flywheel for my model, but I could easily be jumping to the wrong conclusion.

Going back to Kit's point, I can't find msetup.exe , or even if I have it in the computer. You can probably work out that computers are not my strong point! where do I find it?

Has the code changed on their website? I tried one I have used previously (brisk25)and it is not recognized. I

I have just fitted a set of Continental Premium Contact 5 tyres, I also changed the profile from 205/60 to 195/65 on 15" rims. After 2000 miles there are two noticeable improvements; the ride has improved and the tyre noise has improved markedly. Even my misssus, who has zero interest in cars or mechanical things, commented on the quieter ride. There is a stretch of dual carriageway near here that was horrendously noisy on the Michelin tyres previously fitted, and now it is perfectly acceptable. I know I have changed two things and the changes are subjective, but am very pleased with the tyres.

I have a 2006 4x4 and it does have a haldex filter. I bought the filter from Rainworth at Mansfield and a local indie fitted it for £40 including the oil. I can find the part number if you wish. The indie was stumped for a while because the new filter had been assembled incorrectly from new and he had to sort it out. I am quite practical and I would normally change the oil myself, but when I investigated the operation, it involves a special tool. For £40 it was a no brainer to let the guy do it.

Having owned a 1.9 4x4 estate for three years, I have about 35,000 miles worth of experience with this. I know I am not using calibrated figures, but from the onboard computer, day to day in a very hilly area of the country returns an indicated 50 mpg, and long runs at around about the speed limit returns an indicated 60 ish mpg. While there is a real chance that these figures are not accurate, they are a good indicator. As I have mentioned in previous replies, I love the car. I have spent very little on running costs, and the haldex oil change cost a total of about £80 including oil, filter and labour.

I have had a 4x4 for three years now and it is brilliant! I have a separate set of winter wheels and tyres and the thing goes anywhere. The average fuel consumption is just over 50mpg and the best I have seen is 60mpg on a particularly long and tedious journey. The 1.9 has no DPF, so no worries there. Because the four wheel drive only works when it needs to, the fuel consumption remains good.. Mine has done 60000 miles and is still on it's original brake pads and discs. It is also a bit of a Q car, because it looks standard outside. As far as I know. the only mechanical difference between the 4x4 and Scout is bigger wheels on the Scout , and hence more ground clearance. You might have noticed that I am big fan of mine

It is for oil, oil filter and air filter. Do you think these items are not covered by the code?

I tried "brisk25" as the discount code for ECP and it doesn't like it. Is there a current code?

Has anybody found a cheaper supplier for the alarm? Mine has stopped working and Rainworth quoted £114. This is a bit steep for what is basically a flat battery.

Going back to the fuel consumption, over the 35000 miles that I have had my 1.9 4x4 , the worst figure I have had is 48mpg driving at a steady indicated 80mph. Generally, I get about 50mpg and on long gentle journeys, I get about 60mpg. There must be something wrong to get a high fuel consumption. I tried a Scout before I bought my used 4x4, and I preferred the 1.9 engine and the anonymity of my car.

I stand to be corrected but I don't think they are Canbus kits. The present ebay ref. is 330379335700. As mentioned previously, this seems to be a really good seller, and he has sold loads of these. I have been using the lights since September, and for maybe 3000 miles - not all on main beam! I think my particular situation makes sense for high beam HID, but over christmas, when I went back to civilization for a week or so, The delay in response when first selecting high beam meant that it was a bit of a pain. Before the high beam had fully illuminated, I had to dip the lights. I suspect this will reduce the life of the upgrade.

The main beam is still working perfectly. Although there were concerns about dipping the lights frequently, this has not been a problem to date. An example of my main beam usage is that I drove for 25 minutes the other night without needing dip beam. The joys of living in the sticks! Also, if I use dip for less than about 10 seconds, the main beams come straight back on full strength without the pause for heating up. For my particular use, I am very satisfied. I guess time will tell with regard to longevity.

I know I am being a thickhead here, but was it the left or right wheel arch?