blood

It's had a diagnostic check and it's thrown up two faults, first being a Glow plug fault so will change those, Second fault came back as Side impact sensor....so they will investigate further to see if it that or as you mention a damaged driver door loom wiring, the vehicle is used as taxi and i'm in and out like a yo-yo to help the customer in and out, indeed had that same problem with the last superb I had. I'll keep you posted after it's had a proper investigation and repair.

I just watched a youtube clip showing it being done on a VW, looked a tad intricate a job for my gnarled old arthritic fingers so I guess if it is the clockspring then it will left to the experts.👍 Thank you all for your advice and input..

If I dont ask then I won't know, that's how people learn.

And if it were that how do you fix it?

What does "Clockspring" mean ?

Hi. About 4 days the orange EML came on on my 2013 Skoda 2lt Diesel DSG 4x4 estate, after three days it suddenly went off of its own accord, great I thought, but after driving it for around 50 miles today their was an audible ping and now the Airbag orange dash light came on saying Airbag fault. To much of a coincidence I fear, so what could be causing such a set of problems? Batteries relatively new and the cars running absolutely as it should. It's being checked tomorrow at the local garage but any suggestions or insights as to why these random lights come on are welcome. Thanks. Blood.

Yes, that sounds like the kind of clunks ive been experiencing, they were creeping up on me, but mine have since gone a step further to DMF rattle, I've stopped using it for fear of it doing more damage or until the problems been identified and cured, i'd hate some sort of catastrophic failure and something flew to bits.

It's next Service as well as next Haldex and DSG oil Changes will be due in 10'000 miles at 118'000 miles, however due to Covid lockdowns the time between services was much longer as the car was hardly used for 9 Months so it's probably a year behind it's forecasted service date. To my Knowledge it has never had a DSG reset done.

Hi. The gearbox seems as smooth in it's changes as it ever was, no Vibration whatsover, It's been a well serviced car so has had all it's ATF oil and filter changes, once it's passed idling rev speed and driving the rattle and clatters dissappears. There was often a wee bit of a Clunk as it moved off from standstill in 1st gear but I had thought it might be a tired engine or Gearbox mounting but the mechanic said it could be the play on the DMF....In an odd way I'm hoping it is the DMF rather than something more mechanically sinister.

Do any of you good people know if this DSG has a DMF fitted, a quick examination of a rattly click/clatter at the lower passenger side end of the engine.gearbox by my local Mechanic makes him think it's a DMF flywheel issue, If that is indeed the problem is a replacement DMF an Expensive fix or not too financially life threatening. Or have you chaps any experience of a similar rattly click/clatter and if so what created it, it only does so when the Engines fully hot, and the sound goes at above 1200RPM or so. Im both concerned and perplexed and it'll be at least a week before they get it in for a proper diagnosis. Any advice or opinions much appreciated. Thanks Blood.

Hi all. I gave it a liberal coating of Plumbers Silcone spray and it started working as normal, I guess it was some Rust, crud or dead flies that had created the problem, certainly nothing I tried last night would fix it. Now I have to cancel the garage slot until or unless he problem returns. Thank you all for your help...much appreciated.

I'm popping it down the local garage today so they can have a quick shifty at it, it may have went the same way yours did.

I'm not sure what its called either and that's what makes describing it so difficult..

No Bangs nor Knocks, though I will check the bump stop heights.

Yes, I normally drop it from about 8" so as not to dimple the bonnet by pushing on it.

No, its not the safety catch, it's the part that slots down into the lock, pushes down through two wire rods and then trips the lock catch when the bonnet fully closes....this is the part the Lock catch holds in place until the bonnet release cable is pulled.

Hi Chimaera. As far as I can see the cable does move freely and it opens fine. I can make the Mechanism lock by pushing a Screwdriver on to the lock trigger and then it'll release fine, but it doesnt want to lock using the Square/U shaped round lock rod that is attached to the bonnet, it's almost as if it wont go down far enough to trigger the final part of the locking process.

My 2013 Superb MKII Bonnet wont click into the locked position correctly and bounces back up to the safety catch, I've lubed it all up and eventually got it to lock but it did the exact same again two days later when i needed to change a bulb. Could the lower catch be worn or is there any ajustment that might cure it. Any advice welcome.

Went and tried pressing a fraction of a second before pressing the unlock button, and yes it seems to open each time I tried it.

Hi. Thanks for that. i'll give it a try tomorrow and let you all know if it works

How do I VCDS scan it?

Hi, yes I initially posted this in the Karoq forum room by accident but then moved it to the Superb forum room, sadly I couldnt see any option to delete in here. The dreaded Kessy fault is what seems to afflict a great many Skoda owners with Keyless locking, Doors not locking or as they should without pressing bottons on the key handle, warning messages of keyless faulty on the dash, it's been a problem on both the MK2 Superbs that ive owned and it truly is a problem to be dreaded, Ive never had a permanent fix to this yet and only short periods of remission from it, but it always resurfaces....and now it seems to affect fueltank flap as well.

My 2013 Superb Mk II has had the dreaded Kessy fault for ages now and Ive decided its easier to live with it as chase a fix, but now I'm finding that my Fuel cap flap sometimes won't unlock along with the doors using the Key Fob unlock button, it seems to work after a procedure of opening the door, starting the engine, switching the engine off again and then pressing the button. Anybody else had this issue or found a fix? Thanks.

My 2013 Superb Mk II has had the dreaded Kessy fault for ages now and Ive decided its easier to live with it as chase a fix, but now I'm finding that my Fuel cap flap sometimes won't unlock along with the doors using the Key Fob unlock button, it seems to work after a procedure of opening the door, starting the engine, switching the engine off again and then pressing the button. Anybody else had this issue or found a fix? Thanks.

The L/H indicator arrow as well as the Handbrake warning lights never seem to fully go out, they are always very faintly on when driving. The Indicator arrow will go out completely when I pull on the Handbrake and the Handbrake warning light comes on but will come on again when i release the handbrake, it seems as if one light affects the other in some way. Any Suggestions 2013 Skoda Superb mkII