stephenb

I have this with the rear bumper on the right hand side section. A quote from the Skoda dealer was an unbelievable £120, so I am living with it for the moment. If someone gets a whole bumper I would buy the RH trim off them

I did the same procedure using measuring blocks last week after replacing a ballast, and couldn't work out why the fault didn't clear and the range didn't adjust I re-read the wiki and repeated it with basic settings and it worked fine. It seemed to me that when you first turn on the lights, you see the range adjust, but if you turn them off and on again, they are still in the same position so don't move. So it can look as if the range adjusting is not working. Maybe there is a time delay before they reset to the rest position?

I had this problem last summer driving in France on the autoroute. Typically after about an hour of driving, I got Engine Workshop + glowplug light. If you take a rest stop, turn off the engine for a few minutes it clears the warning, but then it comes on again about another hour later. The DPF needed topping up. It looks as if you get a fair amount of warning before the DPF will eventually clog up, as I drove another 1000 miles with no problem. VCDS is the only reliable way to be sure with the diagnosis though. Car had done 65,000 miles then, so the 80,000 quoted can be optimistic. I do a lot of city driving.

As yours is a 2.0tdi, it sounds like the DPF burn-off cycle when the idle sticks at 1000rpm. It will run at 1000rpm for 10 minutes or so then drop back to normal. Sometimes I have had it doing 2 cycles in a day, but then it should be ok for 500 miles. There is a hot smell during the cycle. If the mileage is 60-80k the DPF fluid may need topping up, which is normally indicated by the engine workshop warning lighting up, but then clearing after restarting the engine. Maybe your DPF is not being cleared by the burn-off cycle?

My 2.0 diesel had a new engine at 38,000 miles before I bought it at 43,000. So on the plus side, I got a car with 5,000 miles on the engine. But is the replacement engine now fixed and reliable? I hear conflicting reports on that, and some cars have got through 2 engines. Then there is the dreaded DPF..... It's a shame as I really like the car and it has been ultra reliable for me so far. But every time the frost warning pings it gives me an anxiety attack as it could be the oil pressure warning.

Just for reference these are the decoded options from my 56 Elegance 2.0Tdi E0A = No special edition 1D0 = Without trailer hitch 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex 5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical 1KD = Disc brakes, rear 1AJ = Anti-spin regulation (ABS/ASR/EDL) with electronic differential lock (EDL) 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof) 1N1 = Power steering H6Q = Tires 225/45 R17 Y 4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation 4R3 = Power windows with comfort operation 3NZ = Rear seat bench unsplit, backrest split folding 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag 4A4 = Seat heater for front and rear seats separately controlled 8L3 = Roof antenna J1D = Battery 380 A (72 Ah) 7AH = Electronic vehicle immobilization devicewith alarm system, passenger compartmentcontrol and backup horn 8GL = Alternator 120 A 6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system 9AD = Climatronic, free of cfc 8RM = 8 speakers (passive) 7Q2 = Navigation system with color screen 8AY = Radio/navigation system 8X1 = Headlight washer system 4K3 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and safe securing B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 3L6 = Electric seat adjustment for both front seats, drivers seat with memory system 9P1 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle QR2 = With traffic sign display 7X1 = Park distance control 9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation 8WD = Integrated front fog light 7A2 = CD changer QG1 = Service interval prolongation 7GG = Emission standard EU4 DPF 0JK = Weight category front axle weight range 10 7P4 = Manually adjustable lumbar support in front seats F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 1BA = Standard suspension/shock absorption 3S0 = Without roof rails/roof load rack The only option missing from this list is the self destructing oil pump!

I can't see 205/45 R16 listed for the AWX in the Superb (3U) section in the German spec. Options are 205/55 R16 or 225/45 R17. Also, have a look inside your fuel filler flap for the types fitted.

I found this document on a German site, but it's quite easy to work out what it means. It is listed by engine code, AWX for your car? Columns are, Engine code, Key code, Tyre size, Rim size, Offset, Snowchains permitted (yes/no) http://www.tuev-hessen.de/content/e2562/e8658/Serienreifen_Skoda_2010_09_ger.pdf Hope it helps

I bought my 56 plate 140tdi from a dealer and the first year used car warranty was included. Having since found out about the oil pump issue, I renewed again for £390 for another year. The Skoda warranty looks fairly standard in its exclusions - brake discs, pads, clutch, exhaust, trim etc. I did check that oil pump failure is included. The only exclusion that worries me given the other known problem of the Superb is : "water ingress (including damage to covered parts caused by water)" This warranty is only valid up to 80,000 miles. It's a cost I have to live with I guess. Still it does include UK and European roadside assistance, which would cost me extra otherwise. I like the car otherwise, so I just have to keep an eye on the costs to decide when to get rid of it. DPF has not caused any problems, but I need to set aside some cash to refill it.

Normally the offset is indicated on the inside of the spokes as "ET XX" The normal Superb MK1 offset is ET 37. Otherwise the standard fitting wheel is 7inch rim width (7J) and the 5 bolt fixing is on 112mm diameter circle (PCD 112) You would have to check with any other car what offset range is allowed. I think the Superb allows 35 - 45.

The rims need to have offset ET35 - 45. Probably you have ET37 on your current rims. According to the manual, if you want to fit snow chains for the worst alpine conditions, the rim width should be 6J, I guess to give clearance from the suspension. Otherwise 6J, 6.5J or 7J would be OK. I think you could use low profile (9mm) chains on 7J rims for a short time if you drive very slowly and carefully, just to get out of a tight spot, but it's not recommended. There are snow chains which don't extend over the back of the wheel to avoid this problem but they are very expensive! Winter tyres will get you though most problems though - they have been great in the snow this week in the South London suburbs! As an alternative to steel rims, you might find a cheap set of alloys on ebay - I got some Passat 16inch alloy rims which I am using as my winter set.

It should be answered here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/171089-12v-socket-in-the-boot/ The fuses for socket in the boot and in the rear are on the same fuseboard. On mine, the 20A fuse for the rear lighter is at the top of the board.

Hi Thanks for the information here - the rear lighter socket went dead on my Superb a few weeks ago and I was trying to work out if there was a fuse or it was a wiring fault. Once you have removed the lower dash panel under the steering wheel, there are two 20A (yellow) fuses on the relay board. The one at the top of the board is for the rear lighter socket and was blown. The one at the bottom of the relay board is probably for the12V socket in the boot. As mentioned by others you need pliers or tweezers to get it in or out.