sadexpunk

thanks the airbox screws are phillips. torx (2 different sizes) on the undertray. thanks for the link cheshire cat. ill order some of those but maybe just give a ring to my friendly local garage first :-) cheers

it was indeed, they have history with this sort of thing do they? re the undertray screws and air filter screws, what would i search for on ebay? thanks

hi im about to SORN my 57 L&k 2.0 tdi (BKD engine) octavia for a few months due to company car, so i decided to service it first, myself. ive had a few issues so thought id ask advice on here. firstly, the underneath cover, for accessing the sump plug. some of the screws seemed seized and rusty and i had a right game getting them off, sawing slots in them for screwdrivers, mole grips, had a right faff. i found 2 or 3 on a scrap car to replace some with but am left still needing a few for a full house. ive attached the pic to show the type. where can i buy replacements and what are they called? secondly, when the engine cover was taken off, i noticed a ball shaped item that was loose in the engine bay. on closer inspection theres a screw broken off inside which means it cant now be fixed to the engine mount. ive no idea what it is, could you help me please? ive just had my timing belt replaced (120,000) and im sure this would have to have been removed, so i think it must have happened during that work. ive had to cable tie it for now but again im keen to have everything as it should be. thirdly, i struggled again with two of the screws on the air filter cover. got them off with small mole grips but again id like to replace with new. where could i find these and what are they called? are all these screws ebay jobbies? fourthly, my oil filter seemed a bit crushed when i removed it, i wasnt expecting that. is this normal, and if not what do you think has happened? lastly, if my car is SORNED for 3 months/ 6 months/ 12 months whatever, is there an issue with stored diesel? a quick google suggests it may actually be better to fill up so theres no room for moisture to get in. what would your advice be? i can store it on private property with private roads so can warm it up and drive it around for 20 mins or so every couple of weeks if need be, or should i just leave it? thank you for your advice.

well, fell at the first hurdle (told you i wasnt very technically minded ) :-) changed the oil and filter today so took the opportunity to have a look. took the air filter out, also the plastic mesh bit underneath which just left the casing. undid the torx screws, also the allen bolt behind but it wouldnt come off. wondered about the 2 screws holding the front part of air intake, so i took those out too, still wouldnt budge. didnt want to break anything but worked out it seemed to be fixed at one, maybe two locations at the bottom of the casing, some strange looking things. ive taken a pic to show you. could anyone tell me what i need to do please? thanks a lot

thanks a lot, ordered. had a ECP code for 33% off so only just over £6. thanks again for your help.

excellent thank you very much i usually get my parts from euro car parts, if i put my reg in it brings this up for the reverse light switch...... https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_2.0_2008/p/car-parts/electrical/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/car-switch-and-car-sensors/?465440141&1&08f187eacf2db460bc28d3990e544b39bec17b41&000539 its quite a bit cheaper than the GSF link, and says its a BKD engine, could you confirm its the same part please? thanks again, much appreciated.

its a 2.0 PD diesel engine, from memory i think its a BKD engine? so id need to buy a new switch and change it? thanks

im not very mechanically minded, is this something i can check myself? thanks a lot

hi 57 L&k 2.0 diesel if its relevant. not sure whats going on but when i select reverse gear with clutch down, all fine, im not moving, reverse lights are on. as i slowly start to move, the lights flicker on and off, and when they go off i get a beep from the dash. its higher pitched than the reversing sensors, and as i approach an object, both tones of beep can be heard as the lights go off and then back on. i stop, leave it in reverse, fine. i can even get people to rock the car but lights stay on, no beep which suggests its not the movement of the car and a loose connection. as soon as i slowly move backwards (and smoother than when the car is being rocked), the lights go off, beep, back on again, off, beep etc. this bit is also relevant i think....... i noticed that when im in reverse, the radio screen changes to a pic of the car as it should and shows the reversing sensors when i approach an object. but as the beeps happen and the lights go off, it changes back to radio for that split second. this suggests to me that it isnt just a loose connection for the reversing lights, but that the car 'thinks' its in forward gear again for those split seconds. id appreciate any help with this please or anything i can check thanks a lot

thank you mate. before i start fiddling about, im told that if the lights on all the time its likely to be the sensor, if it only comes on when i go above 5mph, then itll be the ring. mine is the second case, so is it almost certainly the ring then? thanks

had a mate with diagnostics look at it for me and has confirmed that its the rear right wheel, however he says the diagnostics dont say whether its the ring or the sensor. as i mentioned before, im not technically minded so id be getting someone else to do it for me, but may be able to save money by buying the part(s) first. could anyone point me in the direction of the parts id need, the ring and/or sensor please? is ebay my best bet? thanks a lot

thanks, i should just point out that on start-up, they do that self-levelling thing if thats relevant.

hi got a 57 L&K. i believe the headlights are set too high, as i get oncoming drivers flashing me sometimes, as though they think im on high beam. i also think theyre too high as i can see that they hit the rear view mirrors of cars in front sometimes and think if that was me id be annoyed. they must be legal tho as they pass the MOT each year, but id like to dacker them down a bit still within the acceptable range, just for the comfort of other drivers. ive googled away on plenty of threads on here, some seem to suggest you can manually adjust with the hex screws on the side of the headlamp, some suggesting thats a mistake to do and they can only be done by a dealer. have we got a definitive answer of my options please? thanks

thank you very much, ill have a word with my mate who has a diagnostics system, see if i can get to the bottom of it. cheers

thanks, so its probably going to be fine to get that welded up then. sorry, im not very technically minded and dont understand car mechanics. is that a problem with the ABS itself or just faulty sensors then? and assuming youre right, whats my best course of action? thanks