SP-1

I often wonder this. I've got an Octavia vRS, and 99% of my driving is in urban areas. I've seen people on here who get 400 miles on a tank. If I drive like I'm driving Miss Daisy, I can get 300 miles per tank. I stop to fill up at the first oportunity, when the fuel light is on. If I squeeze all I can into a tank I can get 45 litres. That's brim full. The computer says I average exactly 30mpg. Is that normal??

Looks really good. Nicely hidden behind the bumper, so doesn't look too chav.. lol. (Apologies to all Chavs reading this!) Looked quite straight forward.. Do you notice any difference in performance??

lol... Think you may need to read Bumtishs' post again.... P.S..... mine's silver!!!

As Andrew says, the light comes on when just unlocked, or keys removed from ignition, so it's easy to be confused by it!!

Does the interior light come on when you open the drivers door?? Do you get the warning light on your dashboard?? If so then it's not the microswitch!

All you need to know right here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/page__hl__microswitch Hope it helps.... It's about an hours work!

Thanks mate, will try that tomorrow..

I believe it was re-gassed yes. Maybe I'll run it to quick fit, as they guarantee cooler air con or your money back lol!!

It's a 2000 X reg, manual heat/air con system

Hi all, I usually float around in the Octavia section, but as my dad has a Fabia, and his air con is dead, I thought I'd pop by to ask for some advice. It's been into a "specialist" and he can't find out why it doesn't work!! Having explored my Octavia a bit with VAG COM and discovered just how much the ECU has a say in, I was wondering if it'd be in charge of the air con?? I tried VAG COM on it, and couldn't find any faults, but I'm still learning it so not 100% sure. My dad is a pensioner he's not got a lot to spend, plus it's an 11 year old car. I think the "specialist" checked the obvious, compressor, pipes etc, but if he didn't understand the ECU he may not have checked it. Anybody had experience of this? I'm not going to attempt to fix it, but when my dad takes it to a garage I don't want someone lining their pockets at his expense! Thanks in advance Richard

Get some here!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HAMMERITE-SMOOTH-FINISH-GREEN-PAINT-750ML-LOW-PRICE-/280624609991?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item415687bac7

I bought the draper one.. Complete waste of money. There's not really a prooper fitting side for the rear caliper on my vRS!! Spend the extra, get the propper one!

I had this too on my vRS. The boot latch can be adjusted by popping out the inspection hatch just below the latch bar. (on the car, not the bootlid) I think it's either torx, or star drive. It's a 5 minute job. Too loose and the boot will rattle, and not be water tight. To tight, and the boot will either not latch, or if it does, not close enough to operate the microswitch in the lock, hence the warning light on your dash. When the light is on your dash, and the interior light's not on, it is NOT a door switch!!

I bought the one in Liverpool-Lad's link. It's silver but smooth green hammerite is a perfect match. It's what I painted mine with!! You can get it here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HAMMERITE-SMOOTH-FINISH-GREEN-PAINT-750ML-LOW-PRICE-/380222437306?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item588705f7ba

I'd guess the wiring circuit is the same as the saloon. I had trouble with mine. You can either pull the plug off the switch under the boot panel, or adjust the boot latch bar. On the saloon, to adjust the latch bar, there's an inspection panel which just pings off, and there's a couple of either torx or star drive bolts which you can loosen to move the latch bar. It's just a case of finding the right position. Too loose and the boot will rattle, too tight and the latch bar won't activate the switch. It's pretty easy... Good luck

do you get a warning light on the dash when it's on??

Definetly the rear??? I thought I had that, turned out to be the front anti roll bar bushes.. If it's the rear, could be the handbrake's not on properly, and the disc could be "squeeking" through the pads???

Hi Mate, To be honest I'm not sure what I want from it. Any vehicle I own I like to understand how it works. Had a bit of a play with it, and am thinking of buying the full product. Found a couple of codes which I cleared and haven't returned.. So happy days!!

Not got factory parking sensors, I'm presuming your are?? But one tip.. It says in the manual you need to reomove the black rubbing strip, but you don't. There's 4 bolts under it, but you can get to them from inside the boot. If you look under the bumper before you remove it, you'll probbly see if there's a connector, or enough slack cable. There's a lot of room under there.

Check the box of wires connected to the positive side of the battery. (on top or just beside it) The top just pops open on a hinge. My electrics went haywire last year, turned out to be corrosion on the connectors in there. If you have any tools, might be worth undoing, cleaning and redoing the connectors... Just a thought. Good luck..

Fair point.. I've not had a chance to get my teeth into it. Is there an Adobe or similar manual anywhere I can download. I've found the web page with some instructions on it, but am hesitant to go and fiddle, in case I screw something up!!!

Sorted!!!! I thought I'd tried every combination of port, and programme. Spoke too a nice man at Gendan, who advised me to use COM2 which I thought I'd already tried, and also told me that VCDS lite beta won't work.. To be honest that was my last try before buying a different cable. He said COM2 is a better one to use, as some computers don't like using COM1, even though mine looked like it was free. Anyhow's it all works fine now, and guess what, so does the £5 ebay special... but hey ho....

Unfortunatly we're a 1 laptop household.... lol

Hi Chris, The FDTI driver is dated 18th March 2011, so I think that's fairly up to date. I presume the OBD socket has 12v, as I've plugged in a handheld code reader and it works ok. It does say the cable should be recognised without it being plugged into the car. Didn't get the chance to phone today, will try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

Well I bought a gendan cable and I still have the same issue. I uninstalled everything and started again. Got the USB set to COM1. Plugged the cable in and ran the "Test" and it says "Port OK, Interface not found" Going to phone Gendan in the morning, to ask for guidance... so I guess it's some sort of operator error... lol Any (more) ideas!!!! Thanks in advance Richard