m3racer

I'm interested in the central locking switch for this, do you still have it? If so how much?

Unfortunately buying a secondhand I have found is luck and timing, I have had mine just over 2 years now and apart from brake pads all round (which was used as a bargaining chip at the time of purchase ) and a water destroyed parking sensor (not spotted at the time of purchase ) I have only had minor routine servicing costs. The car is now approaching its 7th birthday and a small but, growing list of niggles has now started in the last couple of months. A couple of glowplugs, poor radio reception, faulty wiper stalk, faulty rear wiper, an alarm siren that is well silent! I am also now due a major service at the end of the year and a brake fluid change is overdue, the aircon probably also needs to be looked at and I am not sure this is entirely down to the gas levels. However with the above said I was lucky when I purchased the car as it had been a well looked after fleet car in a previous life. It had some major pieces of service work just before I bought it. The timing belt had been replaced, a pair of tyres (I have Pegasus wheels, the main reason I bought this particular car) and a major service. It came with the paperwork for this even down to the list of parts fitted with the part numbers! In the 2 years of ownership the car has not missed a beat. It has been driven all over Europe including being driven to the country of its birth on 5 occassions. Clocking 18k, 3k of which was done in a month. Started in temperatures as low as -20 and as high as +35, driven everyday for a month then not driven for 2 months and started first time everytime, ok I lied it struggled in minus 20 conditions but to be fair at least one glowplug may have failed with another possibly past its best! From what the OP has said, this car has been as good to me as one of his previous cars, a Peugeot 406 Estate, and once I have put some time, effort and money into my car I am hopeful that another 2 years of happy motoring can commence! Stick with it Phil, I like you have bought cars that have needed work to bring them up to scratch, after this though, and touch wood, they have tended to only require service work. Hopefully this will be the case for you too!

Hi All, Many thanks for the responses: No, the only time I have had to touch the fluid in the 2 years of ownership was to remove some following a pads change on the rear and then much later on the front. I don't think so as I have good 'feel' in the pedal as opposed to it just being as hard as rock. Which I believe is the usual symptom of a the brake servo not holding vacum. Literally just tried this and writing this response from the car! After pumping the pedal as suggested there is no give, just a very hard pedal! I had read that a diesel engine may cause the pedal to sink due to a higher vacum pressure. It maybe this is the cause, or at least partially to blame. I am now heavily leaning to a full bleed including master cyclinder bleed nipples as suggested and then take stock. It maybe this is all it needs, however I have never had a pedal give like this one does. However, I know the brake fluid is past its best and this perhaps should be my first port of call. Thank you all for your help

Hi All, I think I know the answer to this question! However before I commit to spending cold hard cash, I just wanted to make sure..... I have a MY2006 1.9TDi Elegance, for a while now I have noticed that if the brake pedal was pushed a little harder than normal when stationary, it would sink slowly towards the floor, if you then take your foot off the pedal and re-press it would be nice and hard once more. This is the same with or without the engine running. In all other respects, apart from requiring new fluid, the brake system appears to be in good condition and I have not had any moments when I have been left questioning the ability of the brakes to stop the car in complete safety. This has been in all conditions and in situations where hitting the centre pedal hard has been required. As I need to change the brake fluid anyway I figured this was the best time to get to tackle this problem. From the research I have done the sympton above points to the seals on the master cylinder allowing brake fluid to leak past and that a new master cylinder is therefore required. I have no objections to spending the money as this is the brakes we are talking about, however I prefer to spend money once where possible! If anyone has another suggestion to the cause of the problem or just wants to confirm my thinking is correct please chip in! Many thanks

PM sent

What is the deal with the radio code? I am in a similar postion to OP and have looked at both the Bolero & Columbus options and dismissed on price. So a Stream MP3 with Aux-IN would be fine and strikes a good balance of price and function for me. It is however a rare thing to see one with a code, can they be recoded with a willing dealer? I know the code is in the radio and stored in the instrument cluster. Therefore if plugged a 'new' radio into my car I would expect it to ask for a code, unless I was uber lucky. Is it a case that a dealer can overwrite the code? Are there any provisos to this? I have no problem buying one that has come from a wrecked Octavia, as many seem to and this seems to stack up given that this is a standard fit radio, so long as I don't end up with a rather large paperweight! Expertise and opinions sought!!!

Another one for a damp microfibre cloth, I was really surprised the first time I did this on mine, it really is all that is required!

If other devices have the same issue then this reduces the chance of this being a driver issue. Have you tried the performance with only one devie connected?

Yes the speed is good and I regularly use speedtest at work as a bench mark test or at least a test to see if something is wrong with the network performance! It is not scientific but a good starting point!

Downstream = Download = Data coming into your router from the internet Upstream = Upload = Data going out to the internet Neither is to do with the wireless speed directly.

Are you using just one device to connect wirelessly or do you have multiple devices? If you are using only one device do you have anything else that you could borrow to try and narrow down the route cause? If you are using multiple devices remember that they all share the bandwidth available both in terms of the internet connection and the radio in your router i.e. 54Mbps (if you are using G) divided by the number of connected devices. Try disconnecting all other devices if you have multiple devices. You should be able to see what is currently connecting to the router by logging into it. I am assuming that you have secured your wireless connection with some form of security! If not I would advise to secure it with WPA2 and AES encryption if available and a secure password. Secure would be something like this: Br15k0d4 It would be worth checking the age of your current driver on your computer and updating to the latest version if one exists. Also try unplugging the router from the mains for at least 30 seconds to reset everything hardware wise. Sometimes this helps sometimes not. Hope some of this helps

+1 Check to see if an updated driver is available for your wireless card in your computer. This may now be an issue due to the updated firmware. Although generally better to run the latest drivers where possible, it is not necessry if things work! Also if possible ensure your router is at the very least not behind anything, clear line of sight is preferable but, not always possible. Is it nesr any electrical devices as these can have an impact if the they are giving off electrical noise. Difficult to both detect and resolve. Does the performance improve the closer you are? Good luck

Not that I have come across yet! Glad the information was of use

Try this link which I have referred to in the past for this information http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions Hope this helps!

Had four 17in alloys with tyres at the weekend in the back of a hatch. To get them in the parcel shelf had to come out but, they did go in with some space to spare but I can't say there was a lot of space! I think I had two stacked on their sides and two were upright which seemed to be the optimum fit and best use of the space, oh and the boot was empty!

This is the way I have done it previously to buy genuine parts and keep the receipts, a VCDS was to be my next buy, an early christmas present for me Regarding variable servicing is there anyway to tell without a VCDS, as currently the service history states it was on this but the last service indicated it may have been changed.

Hi All, I thought after being member since June I should dip my toe and make a post! I have found lots of useful advice and comments on Briskoda and it looks like a great community you have here, so hopefully you can help with this query. I think I already know the answer but this is more for my own sanity and wallet. I bought a 2005 Octy Elegance 1.9 PD in June, love it loads, found it great to drive and it has been utterly reliable and is all the car that I need at the moment. It was a big upgrade from my previous ride of a 13 year old Fiesta! However, a little person came along an upgrade was required, the Fiesta's boot was proving to be an interesting experience with a buggy. Why do baby's need so much stuff?!?!? Anyway my question is as the Octy is 5 years old is it worth continuing with main dealer service and the stamps that you recieve at considerable expense. As I see it I have three main options: 1. Contine having it serviced at the main dealers 2. Service at an independent and have the service history maintained this way. 3. Service it myself For a little bit of background I have previously worked in the motor trade and am very comfortable with tools and getting dirty and have previously serviced all my own cars with little problem. Your input on this subject is welcome just in case there is something I have not thought of! Thanks in advance