VRS-Badman

can some one tell me when looking at the pulley turning the cam clockwise or anti-clockwise is advance and retard? il have a play at the weekend then see if i can get it spot on. im guessing clockwise is advance right?

Thanks man thats been real good help!

Hello all i changed my timing belt the other week and while doing it i left slack on the cam w pump crank side and tensioned it which i know ballsed it up because i tried turning it over and it wouldnt start i then took the glow plug out of cyl 1 with a metal rod found top dead centre, removed the pully wheel off the cam and moved the cams back with a wrench replaced the pully and started ok. I have slight poor mpg when driving eco style and it used to pull hard from 1.5k but it seems to be slightly weeker now and i realy have to drive it hard to 4k to feel satisfied if you know what i mean where as before it used to pull hard from low rpm and i used to change at 3k when wanting to get away. Is there any markings on engine casing crank pully and under the cam pully and pully it self so i can go by to set it back up to default kind of thing...? Thanks for your help guys

Do you know what the difference s are between them? Some onelocal has one with discs on it so hopefully it will be ok to use..?

Hello, My fab vrs backend kicked out tonight and it ended up slapping sideways into the kirb. There is a sharp left bend just down the road from my work, the camber drops down badly towards the outside of the bend and loads of lorrys use this road so I definatly know its oily and greasy. There is also a really low man hole cover in the middle of the road and as I was trying to avoid this then all of a sudden the back went and slammed into the kirb. The damaged it caused had put my rear driver side wheel sticking out.

ye thats it mate nice one for pic uploads, bit expensive though! i was reading another thread and someone said they used a self tapper screw, i think il do this for the time being as its only one side thats not holding. i know its a bodge job but looking after a family now every penny goes for living now and god damn fuel :( it was definately caused by engine rocking movement (dog bone wear) as its the bottom tooth on the inside of the bend that joins to the ally pipe thats worn.

My bad, i took it off at the weekend and it is round one end is 90deg bend up and the other end is straight. I found what the problem is, the 90deg rubber hose (from turbo to alloy pipe) has a metal fitting and two teeth on each side with a seal that connects to the metal pipe. What i found was 1 of the teeth bits that the clip on the alloy pipe locks it with has worn away and the clip itself (on 90deg end of alloy pipe) is worn so thin that if i pull it to one side to release the hose it will snap. does anyone have a spare 90deg hose from turbo to alloy pipe or a part number so i can get one? also can the clip be purchased seperate or is it part of the alloy pipe, need part number for this also? the clip does come off the pipe as i had the one on the other end off.

Ye the pancake pipe is the same as the one on my old mk4 gti 20vt and this one is in exactly the same place above the driver side drive shaft. u guys not call this a pancake pipe, whats the skoda name for it then?

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25, 7 years driving exp, 4 years NC, clean licence no claims ever, got 23 yr old mrs on to, 660 admiral stock fabia vrs

Hi on my way home this afternoon i think the boost pipe from the turbo to the alloy pipe has split or come off? is this common? I can here woooooshing when accelerating and the hear turbine blades, when i come off the accelerator slowing down has the same sound. The thing is it does not seem to have lost any power..? I had a quick look underneath everything on top all the way down to cooler to pancake pipe looks good but cant see past this bit where it comes from the pancake to turbo... No Jack. Shes has ran nicely till now and its got 92k on the clock now Will it be bad to the engine or turbo running it like this? i work 50 miles away which i commute to everyday and wont be able to work on it till the weekend. If someone knows what pipe it is or has a picture, can you post a picture up or link so i can see what pipe im dealing with. Many thanks

Hi all is the part number 1K0 413 031 BE for front passenger side damper?

Hi, nice detailed guide I was wondering why you undone and moved the cam pulley for? Why alter factory set timing?

I wish mine was as easy as tightening the link bolt but after reading a few posts its making me think... My passenger side knocks its more of a metal to metal noise, its when i go over small bumps and cracks around 5-30 mph and does it real bad when going round roundabouts or turning right, when turning left its alot quieter... Iv fitted the cupra bushes and new ball joints a while back, i have recently been under it 2 times with spanners checking everything is tight that is connected to the wheel and everything is rock solid... Its getting worse by the months, any ideas? could it be the arb bush parts that are sandwiched in between the clasp and console? they did look healthy when i was under there though... Thanks

iv just heard from a few peeps i know who own vag that there crap. im an old golf gti forum member and i really recommend rtec if there local to you. they mainly deal with vw but do map others in vag group ie seat skoda audi etc iv been on that forum nearly 6 years and heard nothing but good results from peeps. http://www.r-techpower.co.uk/index.php

i have to agree with you here, it is abit poor what sarah has done to those arms and there is an excessive amount of pressure on these when cornering. my fab is at standard ride hight atm so all is good.

but im sure there is a bit of movement on those three bolts when there loose the wheel moves in and out slightly. Iv had this issue with my 20v previously and took it to a local race/tunner specialist and he adjusted the aligement toe and camber and got it spot on. that cost me a few quid which is what im trying to avoid having to pay again on the fab.

wack a vrs fab box on if u can gets 70 @ 2000rpm in 6th gear :yes: and has the short 1st and 2nd gears to which would aid your motor for picking up speed

Hi all as above i have been lazy and the rain here wont stop for me to look but im assuming its like my previous golf, you have slight adjustment on the ball joint on the arm where the three bolts hold it on. I was lookin at the front wheels from the front and my pass side looks like it has slight more camber angle than the driver side and when i put power down it slightly drags to the left. im guessing this is the reason that the pass side has more angle giving it more pull this side? thanks peeps

iv heard a few bad things about amd maps im staying clear

oh ye lol i forgot its at the back of the console sorry but im guessing im right with lining up the 2 pips on the inner on left and right of wishbone pinion.

ye ok but the cupra ones i have, have pips in four oppersite points to the outer of the bush it also has a solid metal hexagon collet with 2 pips which line up with two of the outer ones (these 2 pips i think indicate the old wider part of the hex in the old bushes). there is no wider parts to the hex like your picture has. (oh and it should say "looking from back to front") they dont have any lines or anything on the outers of the bush either.

I think the solid cupra one i have purchased are the best for value, performance and quality as they are only 8.50 a side and would not give cabin noise as bad as having them all poly bushes on the arms. Thanks for all the feedback and help. I have another question how much are people paying for labour to get these fitted as a local garage has offered to do them for 80 quid?

Hello, before i get them in as you all know they have to be seated correctly, is there points to line up or markings? Could someone show a pic on how to position it before pressing it in or even a pic of it in the console would help? Thanks all

nice one, il look into remaps then