glossopwhite

Yep, some of the strange symptoms I had with the golf for the past year or so include: - climate control fans slowing and then blowing out warm moist air until I turned econ button on, air con has been superb and efficient since battery change - remote central locking not working unless really close to car, it is fine now...without a key battery change - electric windows not working properly unless revs are up and moving, seems to work fine now on idle - starts better when warm, took 3 or 4 secs to start when warm previously, now less than a second. Was actually better starting cold than warm! - seems to run a lot more smoothly Seems that strong batteries aren't just important for starting but the life blood of the workings of the car even when up and running.

Had exact same problem with my Golf 2.0 PD last month, cranked but did not fire. Started fine once jump leaded. I thought it was fuel related too. My solution was to simply change the battery! I suspect that the starter motor was sucking all the available amperage from the battery, there was none left for the injectors to prime. Voltmeter the battery, anything under 12.2 - 12.3V, it wouldn't fire, should be up at 12.6V for a fully charged battery. After cranking the engine about 3 times unsuccessfully, the voltage was down at 11.8V.

My Octavia Scout CR on recent trip to sweden, didn't miss a beat in 4500 miles covered during the holiday, brilliant in the snow and ice. 16" 205/55 R16's steels with Vredestein Snowtrak 2...

I have read though that higher bio-diesel content causes problems with the newer cars fitted with DPFs. I researched this following the discovery that my oil level in my 2.0 CR Scout had climbed to about 200-250ml above the MAX line in 7000 miles. This apparently is caused by unburnt diesel draining down from the DPF due to an interrupted DPF regeneration. This drains to the bottom of the sump. Diesel with less bio-diesel content aspirates and combusts with engine heat but bio-diesel does not. Repeated interruptions cause the oil level to rise. There have been reports of runaway engines and subsequent fires due to overfilling of the oil level. I'm resigned to doing an oil change mid service now to clean the diesel out as running with that ****e in for a while will no doubt cause excessive wear. The other option I have heard of is to use quality fuel such as Shell which contains less bio-diesel rather than the crap sold by Morrisons. A few pence per litre extra is a small price to pay if it means saving your engine and extra oil changes! I'm going to try our local fuel supplier Texaco consistently now to check if I can replicate the problem (did fill with Morrisons previously).

Try my-gti.com, they have all the guff on upgrading your rns510/mfd3/columbus

I's upto the individual dealer I suppose as they are protecting their own interests.

You're not the only one mate, ordered a Scout CR end of June and currently on build week 1. I have kept badgering Skoda Customer Services to get an updated build date, this is the timeline so far: 30th July - week 42 4th August - amended order - added Maxidot and spare wheel (no big deal) 23rd August - week 50 15th September - week 48 1st October - week 49 8th October - week 50 15th October - week 49 29th October - week 1 5th November - week 1 :wonder: 12th November - week 1 :wonder: (I am no doubt Skoda are sick of me mithering! ) I have contacted my dealer a couple of weeks ago and they didn't volunatarily offer a loan car until I mentioned that Skoda have contingency plans for long lead time). Anything over 18 weeks from order are entitled to the loan car. I want the loan car as my part-ex is depreciating all the time. Maybe a loan car costing Skoda £7.50 a day may bring the build date forward?

.