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Thanks. I was hoping to avoid having to strip out all the trim as I did with my Yeti. If ‘tow bar prep’ meant the same as the Yeti/Octavia, that would have been ideal.

I’m beginning to think that as well. Thank you. The ‘1D0’ no tow bar is also self explanatory, but where does the extent of the electrics end? Fuseboard? Under passenger seat? NSR wheel arch? If anyone can let me know how to find out (when I’m 700 miles away from the vehicle) that would be very helpful.

I've looked through many of the threads on here about the Roomster, Scout version specifically, electrics for tow bar and can't find anything definitive from that version Roomster. I'm asking about a 2010 Roomster Scout (I don't have it anywhere near me to actually look at) that has the code "1D0 = Without trailer hitch" and has a removable panel in the lower bumper where a tower would go. The owner says there is no sign of a tow bar (which fits with the code). Did all Scouts from that era come with removable panel as standard? Did they all have electrics factory fitted as far as the NSR wheel arch (as on many Skodas)? Or is the tow bar module located under the passenger seat? If not, any suggestions as to why there would be a removable panel (other than the two bar has been removed by a previous owner). Thanks.

Thanks, people. Still can’t get it to resync! The car also doesn’t like the manual opening with the dud key as it only unlocks all doors when the engine is started. Weird! I’ve discovered my car battery is on the way out, but doubt that has anything to do with it. Any ideas on VCDS trickery to try before I sell it (VCDS, not the car)?

Did you resolve this? Mine has done the same, but none of the solutions in the manual or online (or ones I’ve seen on Briskoda) have worked for me. I’ve tried pressing a button, manual unlocking and putting key in ignition. I've tried good key in ignition and the above. I’ve tried problem key in ignition and the above. And various combinations of the above. I have one fully functioning key and one with a new battery that will manually unlock, lock & start the car but won’t do remote un/locking. I have VCDS (although was going to sell it), but recall there not being anything about key reprogramming in there. Have I missed some trick to reprogram after a battery change?

Thanks for the reminder. Next oil change I'll give it a go and see what happens. I'll also try a stiffer tube down the dipstick to see if that helps.

I know - but it's still sad when the comments add nothing to the actual question and use language that is necessary. I've just been to have look and I'm not sure. It looks like it may be leaning towards the rear of the car, but I'm not certain.

FFS I wish people would stick to answering the OP's questions as opposed to belittling someone you have never met! (This negative attitude was one of the reasons why I stopped using this forum a couple of years back!) As my question is about using an extraction pump which, from your comments, you do not do and have no experience of in order to offer a sensible suggestion to address the question, please stop 'fanning around' and wasting your own time. For the record, I can do an oil change from the sump plug, change the filters, prime the pump reset the service interval, etc. On this occasion I was not able to and hoped to get more oil from the extraction pump alone.

It is a plastic pipe that is fairly rigid when cold, but easily becomes softer and more pliable with hot oil in it. However, it does not compress when pushed fairly hard at the bottom end of the dipstick tube.

I get that - just the instructions implied through the order of the instructions and through not stating it clearly that the oil filler cap should be used. Obviously removing the filler cap and dipstick would aid the oil in draining through the sump plug as it would allow air in and not be creating any form a a vacuum.

Did try going in this way, but got about 1 inch of pipe in and had trouble getting it back out. Thank fully it was warm (from the oil) and soft / pliable so did come out without any damage.

That's a great bit of detective work - I wouldn't have known what I was looking for / at. That you. Next oil change I shall try getting the rear of the vehicle up as high as I can. Would the usual home mechanic ramps be high enough do you think?

Do you know what engine code your Yeti is? If it is the same as mine (CEGA) then obviously there is something that we are doing differently.

Thanks for the document. It implies that the suction should be from the oil filler cap as it says to remove this then says to suction off. No reference to the dipstick tube being used...

Is the 'top down' method suitable for a CEGA engine?

1. I've found that it is less messy with the equipment and skills I have if I can pump out as much as possible first and then open the sump plug with an oil can under the car. If I could get more out with the pump, I'd probably not worry about using the sump plug on every oil change and look to do it every second one. 2. The oil level was around 40-50% of the way up between the max and moon markers on the dipstick. So not completely full, but certainly not over one litre down on the figures for a full engine. I've taken my figure from this website (https://oil-change.info/skoda-yeti-engine-oil-capacity/), but note now that I'd looked at the wrong line. It should have been 4.3 litres (so 1.3 litres down) - the same as in the user manual for this engine (CR 170). Allowing 0.1 litre for absorption of the oil filter and assuming the engine was down 0.2-0.3 litres (no reference to the volume the dipstick indicates is in the manual, so I've used info from another thread on here which may be roughly correct at hatched area represents 0.6 of a litre) I am still 'missing' about 0.9-1.0 litres of oil.

With the weather we have been having in Scotland recently, the few good days I have had to go out with guests of my outdoor guiding business. This leaves me the 'not quite such a bad day' to work on the car. It was already overdue an oil and filter change as September has been horrendous weather.

CEGA. If there is anything specific you can tell from that, then please do let me know. I've had the car sat on flat ground whilst doing the oil changes.

Any idea how far down the sump baffle would be on a diesel Yeti? i think I had about 70-80 cm of pipe down the dipstick tube and could not get any further. Quite a bit longer than the actual dipstick.

Apologies for not responding - been really busy with lots going on. Will be responding to appropriate comments just now.

I’ve just done an oil and filter change on my Yeti using just an electric pump designed for the purpose. Normally I use the pump then drain the leftover from the sump plug. Pressure of time and weather on this occasion necessitated using just the pump. The engine capacity on my Yeti 170 is stated as being 4.9 litres. I only managed to get 3 out! The oil was warm (c.40-50 degrees) and I used the dipstick tube and tried both the filter housing and oil filler to get more out. All to no avail. Do people generally get more out than this? (Can’t believe dealers would only extract c.65% of the oil on a service change.) What are the tricks to getting more oil out with a pump? Or should I just accept that I can’t and drain via the sump plug every time? Any helpful suggestions or questions about my technique appreciated.

I've been phoning around and trying to get my sunroof repaired (on a 2010 Yeti) and no one seems to want to do it - not even the main dealer! Earlier this year it refused to close fully, made horrible noises and had to go to our local garage to get it shut anywhere near closed. From what I know happened and what our local garage said, it is something to do with the arm on the left (passenger) side that has broken. With the storms we've been having up here (West Coast of Scotland) it has been leaking appallingly so the passenger footwell is flooded - presumably because the A-pillar drain tube is now blocked. Just spoken to the main dealer (three hours drive away) and they have said that I'd be better of going to a body shop! If they were to have it in, it will be only to investigate before quoting (fair enough). But they may say that they can't do it, put it all back together leaving me with £110 per hour bill and nothing to show for it as it'll have to go somewhere else (who will potentially do the same). What experiences of having sunroofs fixed have people had on here? Who has actually done the work? Really am stuck as I need a car with a towbar (and no-one has a courtesy car with one of those) and would have to take a day out just to get the car to the garage.

Only if you don't like your car! Because I doubt it would go back together properly if I do it....

Open to offers if anyone needs a genuine washer pump.

It looks like my Mk1 Yeti is has either broken wires to the door controllers or a broken door controller itself as I h=am having issues locking off-side doors, have no exterior mirror adjustment and no auto-dimming, and the lights on the driver's door window control panel don't work. I live in the Highlands of Scotland and our local garage can trace and fix wiring, but can't code modules. The nearest dealer or specialist is three hours drive away... My question is can VCDS be used to fully code a new door control module if that is what is needed? If so, does anyone have links to full instructions on what to door (for driver's door as well as rear door as it could be either or both that has gone). Thanks.