jeep

I know from experience that repairing the clear coat is a professional job. It can be blended for a patch repair by using a high proportion of solvent that melts the new and existing lacquers together, otherwise you just get an edge. The other alternative is to do the whole door. The products needed would not be safe health wise for the average do-it-yourselfer.

Silly question, you don't mean the protective 'foil' above the wheel arch?

The standard Yeti halogens are pretty poor, the worst lights I've ever driven with, bad weather and dark country lanes a challenge. I tried both Philips X-Treme and Osram Night Breaker and found I preferred the light pattern of Philips X-Treme.

That is correct. worth baring in mind for skiing trips :-)

I run both sizes, my summers are 215/60 x 16 and my winters are 205/55 x16 both sets ride well and can use the same size wheels. See details below.

I had 16" wheels from the start and no problems with the ride quality over less than perfect roads, even better now with the new Goodyear Efficient Grip performance tyres over the original Goodyear Excellence.

If the 150 engine was still 'tight' I would suggest the performance will seem brisker by the time it has also done 17,000 miles like the 170.

I recently purchased these tyres also. Great deal for home fitting from Kwikfit also, worked out cheaper than Mytyres. Slightly higher load rating than my previous factory fitted Goodyear Excellence, and a db quieter, better wet braking, and a much higher fuel efficiency rating. The best ride yet, even better than my Winter Continentals, that I preferred to my old Goodyear Excellence.

Interesting I had the same problem at the end of June, told it would be at least a four week wait as all water pumps were on back order throughout the group. Must chase the dealer as not heard from them yet. Rather unimpressed by the lack of supply resilience of a basic component.

I booked my car in with Hughes Skoda for a service, MOT, cam belt and water pump on the 10th of June, Service and MOT done yesterday, I'm told it will be at least a three week wait. I prefer to use a Skoda dealer, but I did find online an independent VW group specialist in Aylesbury who quote a little less for the job, and use what they say is an uprated pump.

Hughes Skoda at Farnham Common

Having arranged cam belt and water pump renewal along with service and MOT of my 2010 reg low mileage Yeti, was informed that water pumps are on back order for Skoda and other VW group cars! Rather surprised that the group does not have a bit more resilience with it's suppliers. Just before The MOT was due I decided I was close to needing a new set of tyres, so a bit of research led to the purchase of four Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance 215/60H16 L99 to replace the factory fitted Goodyear Excellence. Much better wet braking, fuel economy ratings and a db less noisy than the old tyres. Got a very good deal from Kwik-Fit along with mobile fitting at my house at no extra cost (the price for the tyres was better than 'My Tyres') I really like the ride on the new tyres.

Hi - here we are also

I can happily report that my trims have stayed put for over a year now, and are still very firmly attached. I used Masterseal Speedbond from Wayside Adhesives. This is a MS polymer adhesive and does not really need a polyolefin primer like a Polyurethane adhesive, like Tiger Seal requires when bonding the Skoda polypropylene trim kit. I went for a belt and braces approach after my first failure at fitting the kit, as I already had purchased clear polyolefin primer from Wayside, so I used it also with Masterseal Speedbond, but my tests showed no noticeable difference with or without as long as degreasing and roughening had been carefully done.

Yes it can be done with a decent quality blade that will cut stainless steel. Someone had a good tip on the forum that I adopted. Put the blade upside down in the hacksaw and wrap tape on the blade and hacksaw frame ends to prevent bumper scuffs, much easier to cut downwards than upwards. It is hard work but it can be done.

When my Yeti had its 4th yearly service and 2nd MOT in July this subject was discussed with the servicing dealer, Hughes Skoda at Farnham. My car has low miles, less than 30,000. It was agreed that the cam belt would be inspected during the service, and if it looked OK, renewal would be left for another year. The dealer cost of replacing, which takes about four hours is around £400.00

I like the original, but how many people realised I wonder when they purchased their cars that the headlight and foglight/DRL were an integrated unit? Stone damage to one light meaning replacement of both headlight and foglight. Also the design of the headlight with halogens (and even brighter bulbs) was not that great either. So from a performance angle the face lift set up with halogens seems a better solution. Still will not be rushing to change my car just yet.

The roof bars would be the other option, but you (I) do have to carry a short step ladder to do a good job with the bungee cords :-)

It is very easy to select reverse instead of 1st at standstill with mine, so always done with caution, I'd swear the 5 speed gearbox version I took for a test-drive had a stronger spring to depress to get into reverse. But apart from that no other problems with the 6 speed box.

A 63 plate so perhaps not that recent at 192 miles, quite like it in black

Mine are staying on just a little longer, still time for mother nature to change her mind. Also I like the ride of the Continental winters better than the summer Goodyears.

I found Hughes Skoda at Farnham fine when my Yeti was serviced there last July. I took the dog for a very pleasant walk on a lovely day in nearby Burnham Beeches while I waited for the work to be done.

Mix them together and you get Pacific Blue (and save a few quid)

Why spoil an original Yeti? Most people seem to think the new badge looks like a Vauxhall badge from a distance :-)

Despite what the description says, front mud flaps can be refitted after a little adjustment to the top attachment on the mud flaps with a craft knife. Just make sure you use the right adhesive if you go for these. Lots on this forum about that subject :-)