JimFord

I've ordered on from eurocarparts. I'll post here if if fits or not. Many thanks for the helpful advice 'simspj'. Jim

Thanks - looks good! (It's odd though that the ebay suppliers I checked with said that they couldn't supply one for the vRS.) Jim

I'm after the black moulding on the front bumper for my 2002 Octavia vRS. I'v checked a few on Ebay, but they all state 'Not VRS'. Ideas anyone, please? Jim

Thanks - I've just ordered a lock from Ebay. Jim

I managed to open the doors with a combination of inside handle pulling, keyfob pressing and drivers side door control unit button pressing! I removed the front passenger door panel and checked the connectors. All were clean with no evidence of water ingress. I then 'exercised' the door lock, both by hand and by the door and fob switches, but the door is still frequently reluctant to unlock! Is it worth just changing the lock for a 100% guaranteed fix - they're only £17.90 on Ebay, or is it possible that there's more to it than that? Thanks for the helpful replies. Jim

I managed to open the doors with a combination of inside handle pulling, keyfob pressing and drivers side door control unit button pressing! I removed the front passenger door panel and checked the connectors. All were clean with no evidence of water ingress. I then 'exercised' the door lock, both by hand and by the door and fob switches, but the door is still frequently reluctant to unlock! Is it worth just changing the lock for a 100% guaranteed fix - they're only £17.90 on Ebay, or is it possible that there's more to it than that? Thanks for the helpful replies. Jim

I have an '02 reg Octavia Vrs. Both nearside doors won't open on the keyfob or central locking unit in the driver's side door. I need to open the doors in order to remove the door panels and get to the problem area. How can I open the doors if they remain locked, (without recourse to an angle grinder, please!). I've done a search, but can't find a topic that fits my problem. (It's a long time since I've been on this forum - glad to see it's still going!) Jim

Sorted! The problem was a spurious 'earth' that I chose. The F10 fuse is OK to use as a switched supply. I used a digital ohmmeter to find an earthing point under the dashboard on the driver's side. I couldn't see one that the wiring diagram Haynes refers to, so I checked the bolts holding the relay mounting. They appeared to be earthed - but in fact weren't. I resorted to a self tapping screw in the door pillar, under the plastic cover. All working now. Jim

I've had a trawl through the forums, but have not spotted a suggestion. I'm fitting a dash cam and want to hard wire it into the fuse box, 'piggy backing' off an existing 'switched live' fuse. I tried F10 (the petrol engine management system) which looked promising as it was 'dead' with the ignition off and 'live' with the ignition on. However, on starting the engine the camera loses power. It looks like it's not as straightforward as I initially thought, and rather than just guess at what might work, has anyone carried out what I'm trying to do? My fuse box looks like this: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/175843-fuse-panel-layout/ Jim

Thanks, it sounds like it's in the vicinity of the hazard switch. I'll check out the dealer price to see if it's worth going for the one on Ebay. Jim Ford

Hi. My indicator flasher is acting up and I need to have a look at it. By the sound of it, it seems to be behind the radio, but I don't want to have to start ripping anything out without being positive about its location. Jim Ford

Hi. Any recommendations for cheap tyres for the RS. I don't want anything fancy, as I'm not doing any fancy driving now I've recently notched up 6 points! Jim Ford

True story: I went to the photocopier at the school where I work, a couple of days ago and there was one of the P.E. teachers there. She said 'What do you think of the tennis?'. I replied 'I'd rather watch a long run on the photocopier, than watch tennis!' She went spare! Regards: Jim Ford