andrewclark55

My wife has a used 2020 model that has just started refusing to charge using our domestic 13A supply. Symptoms are; Flashes orange led for 30 secs then acts as if charge completed. Same result with a different cable that shows initially 0.4 A then 0 Car seems to be sending the wrong signals to charge cable. This is the early model with no Bluetooth so we cant connect an App. The only way I can get charge in now is to leave the Ignition on and press the Chsrge button on the centre console but that is not ideal as the cae then cant be locked! Any ideas what to check? The 12v battery went a bit low but has since been recharged and id ok.

Connector was removed at the aerial. 5v measured on the coax. DTC aeriial fault wtill coming up after clearing it. So not being caused by the sharkfin. I ha ve therefore put it all back together for now,

Hi Guys Once again did not get any notifications of your replies. I don't know why that is. I finally got the Fakro connector off by sliding the white piece downwards and tested that the DTC is still there after clearing and leaving the cable disconnected. So not an aerial fault, leaving cable or head unit fault. Resistance measurement shield to Earth is 140 ohms and there is 5v on the core to earth. I am presently not seeing any significant parasitic drain so rather than attempt to get at the Amundsen head unit I will run with it for a while and see if it returns. Thanks for all contributions to date.

Sorry @Warrior193. I did not get any notifications of replies - again! No, the problem is not resolved but still working on diagnostics after dealer had the car for six days and could not find any fault. But I now have two clear DTCs. B110311 Digital Radio antenna 1 Short Circuit to ground U40600 Static current too high (this one is intermittent) With the help of ChatGPT (which can now even correctly interpret photos!) I am homing in on the aerial fault as it might be stopping the car from sleeping as I believe the shark fin aerial has an amplifier. But Having taken down the rear section of headliner I have been unable to disconnect the blue FAKRA connector. Anyone know how to release it? I will upload a photo.

I have had an ongoing problem for 2 years with my 2018 Kodiaq .2.0l TSI battery losing charge over a few days and the battery charging randomly at different charge rates. To date I have had: 2 replacement batteries (at my cost) then under Extended Warranty (now expired) 1 replacement negative battery lead (with sensor) 1 replacement alternator Symptoms (monitored with Ancel Battery Manager device and multimeter) Battery discharges in a few hours from 100% SoC /12.8v to around 65% then continues slowly after that over several days Charging when driving starts at 14.3v but even when battery is low quickly drops and does not get to full charge even after half an hour of driving Static current too high warning now showing on ODBII monitor but dealer had the car for a week and did not find any fault Also shows "DAB aerial short circuit to earth" warning I need to gather more evidence to persuade dealer to pursue. All suggestion welcome! A friend has a new Kodiaq VRS petrol with identical symptoms. Is this a known issue?

@nta16 Obviously it is not a patch on VCDS but it is better than a lot of the other cheapo scanners in being able to actually write some data and erase codes (like just before an MOT when you suddenly see an Engine Management Unit fault?? :))

Thanks NIgel. Your post at least brings a smile to my face :) PS the Autophix 7610 is not a bad scanner - It has specific modes for VAG cars and Battery recalibration for a new battery (even a change to AGM from the original EFB-whatsit) and it told us correctly that the left-rear wheel sensor had thrown a wobbly.

@nta16 Thanks very much Nigel for your very full and detailed information. I'm an old-school engineer and understand fully that it needs knowledge and understanding of the systems we work on to diagnose issues. In short, you have to first know how it is supposed to work before understanding why it it isn't working. And yes, there is far too much reliance on computer diagnosis by younger apprentices unless they refer the results to someone experienced in that particular engine or subsystem who just knows what is likely to have gone wrong with it! But these auto systems are, as you say, complex and components interrelated enough to completely mislead. For example my Son's Octavia VRS recently showed up with both a tyre pressure warning and an ABS fault. He was quite alarmed by these until I pointed out that there was also a wheel sensor fault code and both systems rely on the same sensor. We got the sensor changed and both faults were fixed immediately. So to your point about refrigerant I DID actually mean engine coolant as that is what heats up the radiator within the heating system. In this case we are talking of a lack of hot air flow into the driver's feet, not an air-conditioning problem so I'm fairly sure we don't need to go there. It does seem likely that one of the flaps is stuck hence my blast-the-hell out of it strategy with the fan on full power, and the temperature turned right up. I will need to drive it a bit further to see if we have achieved any improvement, but meantime thanks to you and everyone else who has thrown their hat in the ring :). Regards Andrew

@linni Thanks. I will clear all the codes and then if the problem still persists will check that one out.

Not being sarcastic at all. Being an engineer I don't know why the heater would have any connection with the gearbox. Can you kindly explain the logic of what you have discovered!

Interesting! How the heck did you figure that one out?

@linni Sorry - do you mean in respect of my original heater problem?

@linni >Get the gearbox thermostat changed (yes, gearbox). Thei fail very often. Doesn`t cost much. You have me puzzled now! I this in response to the DTC code I posted?

Hi Skomaz >I believe that fault code is usually associated with a key coding issue or immobilizer issue. I'd be tempted to clear it and see if it comes back. That could be the case as my key battery went flat recently. I'll try clearing the code as you suggest as there is also a separate warning about that. >I'd also do a few cycles of the flap reset just to see if that helps. Yep! >Hows the car engine temperature? Ok on a run or varying? Steady as usual at 90deg (12 o'clock). Rock solid. >Finally check the coolant header tank... Is it a 'mit silikat' one with the silicon bag in it ( I can't remember if the 2.0 tsi originally had one or not ). If it did and it's split that can cause the heater matrix to block. It is just a normal plastic tank on this one. Usually half-full when hot. Releasing the pressure cap slightly when hot caused it to rise to nearly overflow, which is why I wondered if there might be air in the coolant locked in somewhere...?

Hi Nigel //The hot air isn't coming in from outside but that means you are also not getting fresh air in the car just recirculating what's there which is OK for short periods but not longer periods, probably has something about this in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Yes I know that but flipping from one mode to the other opens and closes flaps and seems yo have got air flowing again. //Have you have the coolant level checked to see if it's low, possible leak, might be lack of maintenance but some get away with that longer than others or a faulty or break somewhere. Yes. as per my original post it was the first thing that i checked. Will do some more testing and see if my random trial and error approach has done anything!