lali

Spent over £7000.00 alone this year with problems with this car

thanks you for your replies this is really helpful as I have always thought the turbo was faulty right from the start. This could explain the high oil usage and smell also if the turbo seals The AA man came and did a regen a few months ago and told me the ash figure was quite high. I am sick and tired of mechanices supposedly fixing my car and not doing there job properly. Same can also be said for skoda dealership as I had to take my car back to them 5 times with air con issue and still did not fix it properly. In the end I gave up. Someething else as well I input my vin number in for the cars that have been recalled into skoda. I was informed straight away that this is a problem car and needs to be sorted from the website. NOT HEARD A WORD FROM SKODA YET. I have had nothing but problems with this car right from the start. I must have replaced everything you can think of with this car

I usually get the AA t will the fault codes still read when the light has gone off because this is what keeps happening. I always get the AA to come out to my car first and read the fault codes so I know what to expect if I have to take it to the garage.

yes you may be right because the turbo has never sounded right since it was fitted. I had the fault codes checked first time and AA told me it was the EGR that was clogged which is why I put in the additives to try and clear it but the smell is quite strong. The DPF light just keeps going on and off all the time.

I had a bent con rod which had to be replaced. Did not get a new engine but it was rebuilt almost with lots of stuff. Just this alone took over 3 weeks to be diagnosed as I had to take it to a diesel specialist. The turbo is a reconditioned one.

hi I was wondering if anyone can help me. as you can see above I have this problem at the moment. I put two bottles of forte into my diesel tank to try and clean the EGR as AA came out and said it needed cleaning or replacing and was advised to do this as only part of the process. (A specialist diesel mechanic told me to add these and not AA) also bought forte oil to be put in with the old oil in my car and to idle the car engine for 20 to 30 minutes to flush out gunk that may be blocking EGR. after this was done put a new oil filter in and also forte oil additive with new oil VW proper oil full synthetic, I have done this and the light still keeps on flashing on and then after a while just goes off of its own accord so still holding my breath when driving in case this light comes back on again. Also since having a new turbo in and engine almost rebuilt again I am hearing what sounds like wind whistling noise when I get up to about 50 or 60 miles an hour which I never heard before this was done. could it be an oil seal somewhere as the noise just sounds like a slightly open window that air is whistling through coming from under the bonnet, I am also wondering whether this has got something to do with the DPF light keep going on and off. could it be oil filter not replaced properly or some pipe leading to the turbo as it sound like it is coming from the turbo. Car is also wanting lots of oil too any help please would be much appreciated as at my wits end with the problems now with my car. one more thing my car exhaust fumes are really strong at times too thanks additives I used are in pics below here is some info which makes me think this after filter replacement? 7 Apr 2015, 12:30 Workshops sometimes experience a strange humming noise generated from the area of the fuel filter element when replacing the MAHLE Original KL82 filter. This is usually due to excessive air in the system; the fuel pressure regulator, which is integrated in the housing, becomes noticeable acoustically, particularly with the KL82. In order to prevent the air from penetrating, the following should be observed when replacing the filter: 1. Before you start removing the filter, remember to wear the appropriate protective clothing (safety goggles, gloves, etc.) when working on the fuel system. 2. In order to reduce any residual pressure in the tank, briefly open the tank cap. 3. Before removing the lines, shut all connections on the line filter using suitable tools. This prevents fuel from escaping and the lines from emptying and, thus, additional air from penetrating the fuel lines. 4. During installation, pay close attention to the flow direction (pictured below) printed on the filter. Don’t interchange the fuel lines and always replace damaged hoses and clamps. 5. After the filter replacement, check all connections and fittings for leaks and tightness. If disturbing noises persist, despite following the correct filter replacement procedure, this can also be due to a defect in the fuel delivery. To locate the fault, MAHLE Aftermarket recommends that you check the fuel pump, the tank ventilation, and the pre-filter. Oil pressure problems After replacing the MAHLE Original OX339/2D oil filter, it’s possible that the oil pressure indicator lights up, despite an oil pressure check not showing any significant problems. Often the oil filter is suspected as the cause of the problem. Due to an increase in enquiries about this phenomenon, the specialists at MAHLE have carried out various tests and identified the source of the fault. Return valve – not leak-proof? The majority of oil filter housings used in OE and the aftermarket have an integrated, spring-loaded oil return valve. Unscrewing the filter insert releases the valve, allowing the oil in the housing to flow into the oil sump. This ensures that the complete volume of oil can be drained during the oil change. The purpose of the valve is to open the oil return channel when the filter is removed, and to close this channel when the filter is fitted. However, experience shows that the sealing ring in the valve can become brittle, with the result that the valve jams and is unable to properly seal the oil pressure channel or the oil return channel, thereby preventing the build-up of adequate oil pressure. Because oil pressure is usually measured on the section between the oil pump and the oil filter housing, where no significant deviation can be identified due to the design, the fault is usually not noticed at this measuring point. Check the valve In order to prevent serious engine damage caused by insufficient oil pressure, MAHLE recommends that you check the valve’s freedom of movement before each oil filter change. The simplest way is to do so by hand, by directly actuating the valve or by briefly pressing the oil filter insert to be fitted into the housing. If the valve jams, or doesn’t move freely to the upper stop, the oil filter housing should be replaced. The housing should also be replaced when the oil pressure indicator lights up after an oil change and there is no other plausible reason for it to be activated. Related ArticlesHow to ensure optimum sealing of the oil filter element DPF failure – the five main causes Air filter fitting tips Why water separation is a vital part of modern diesel filters What causes black, brittle and broken filter media?

flywheel fitted today and running as sweet as a nut now. big problems finding what was wrong with the engine and only just got my car back and on the road after 6 weeks today. I can personally recommend SWAD diesel specialist Shane. He found the problem on the same day he received my car.

anyone with diesel engine problems that cannot be solved. I can personally recommend SWADS specialist diesel. Shane. top man and knows his stuff. He found the problem in one day where others failed miserably

flywheel fitted today and running as sweet as a nut yeah :sun:

yes I was panicking and did not seem to be getting fast enough responses so worded it different. Us lady drivers need all the help we can get

yes that is what caused it, water damage and yes it is a blessing that the conrod did not break.

bad weather and driving through deep water on roads I guess

my battery died and it was the alternator

I am a taxi driver and when my car went wrong under warranty they paid.....end of