flipster

My much loved Fabia has to go as I now have a company car and I need the cash fast to pay for an over indulgent christmas and it's taking up space on my drive. Never ragged or raced and great condition inside and out. So it's a silver Fab VRS 53 plate with 96k and not going up. It has a full service history by Skoda or indipendent specialist, serviced only a few hundred miles ago. Cambelt and waterpump done at 55k 2 years ago. PD160 intake. Unit 18 remap to 165bhp ish, they also replaced the clutch at the same time at about 60k. The body work is in nice condition generally but not immaculate as are the wheels. 2 new font tyres. 9 months tax, 3 months MOT. I'm located near Ware in Hertfordshire, Postcode is SG12. I'm after £3,300 but it need it gone so all offers will be considered. Any questions E-mail me at phil@pawlowski ot call ot text 07747 694355 Thanks for looking. Phil.

Is it the ASZ or the BLT which you can't map the CEL out or have I got that wrong?

If you don't have an external source you could always try the bulb in the other side and vice versa.

Good afternoon All, FIrstly apologies, this has been done to death I'm sure but search is throwing up loads of stuff and nothing definitive. I have and ASZ VRS and am looking atblanking off the EGR. It was mapped out ages ago when I had the map done but I've never got around to doing it. I don't want to remove it all together as I don't want to lose the ant-shudder valve. Can someone give me a comcise step by step guide as to what needs doing or point me in the direction of one if it's been done before. I want to know what needs doing to the top two rubber pipes? Which bit am I blanking off? I've seen comments made about not doing it at the top of the pipe with the flexible connection but rather at the bottom, is this correct? Can I blank it of with aluminium cans, is it really up to the job? I have a bit of 3mm aluminium tread plate which I'm sure could be fashioned to the correct shape. Any other advice or caution to be warey of. Thanks very much in advance. Flipster.

Out of interest what kind of mpg do you get out of a stage 3 spec. It'll take you a long time to recover that £4.5k in fuel compared to a similarly performing petrol car which does 20-25 mpg. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for spending the money if that's what you want to do, I just don't agree with spending a shed load of cash on a car and then raving about its economy.

Nice, are the much brighter than standard bulbs? Cheers.

As above, anyone tried these for reverse in in red for brake? http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/380-Ultimate-Canbus-92-SMD-LED-Bulb.html Cheers. Flip.

Osram nightbreakers or Philips Xtreme vision have approx 1700 lumen output. 150 lumens will do little to illuminate more than 2ft in front of the car. I standard 55w bulb is rated at about 1000 lumens. This is quite correct, white LEDs have a very narrow colour spectrum, put them behind a coloured filter such as a brake light and they'll be very dim indeed. Red LEDs for brakes and amber for indicators are fine though.

Excellent, we made it sensible practical advice in the end. I've noticed at times that Sepulchrave's posts can come with an "interesting" attitude but his advice and knowledge seems very rarely wrong. A well informed and very technically competent member I would suggest. Interestingly no-one seems to have picked up on the OP's maths..... He states 40mpg on his daily commute which doesn't appear to be too far off the mark for this engine, perhaps a little on the low side but nothing drastic. Yet his maths comes to more like 22-23 mpg. I'd wan't at least a 3litre for that kind of consumption. I am also fully aware that this post has added no useful advice whatsoever.

My 53 plate VRS has them, I thought they were standard......On the outer two back seats anyway.

Luke, Not sure how or why but mine doesn't beep at 4 degrees, beeps for fuel or washer level etc but not temp. Flashes up on the display but no beep. I'm sure this doesn't help you much but it somehow can be done.

If I worked in sales and marketing that would be "an Iron oxide protective coating to improve the longevity of the disc". Still they do say the most economical way to drive is as if your brakes have failed so you'll probably save a fortune on fuel

Wow, never would have thought about that, let us know if it works.

I could be wrong but if your trip isn't clocking miles properly, how can the car know how far you've gone on any given amount of fuel and thus calculate and MPG?

Can we get this thread stickied?? The angriness here is excellent and quite entertaining for such a minor topic (no disrespect Luke). Reading through this would perk me up after a dull day. If he wants to disable the 4C buzzer then FFS who gives a ****? No on chips in on his other posts and asks "why do you want bigger brakes, you must be driving too fast". Additionally if we're going to start quoting cr@p from wikiunreliableopedia then you'd be better off giving advice on how to drive when there may be black ice about. A comparison to ABS is quite frankly ridiculous unless you want your abs to kick in every time you go around a blind bend because there may be something there that you need to do an emergency stop for; This forum should be for friendly and useful advice not criticism and condemnation.