Spunjedd

Only just seen this mate. Great. Looks like I’ll be having an argument then too. A (at the time) 9 year old car that had never had an issue, now gets a problem a few months after a software update, that was supposed to prevent a problem?! Thanks for letting me know fella Matt

@UniqueTimes Hopefully just a bit of a glitch then. I’ll get it read and reset and hope for the best. See how we get on mate. Cheers.

@UniqueTimes I’ve had he same lights on since Feb and as yet have not had a diagnostic done. Car was taken for the recall by previous owner the day I collected it last September. Just curious if the issue has re-occurred since having the code cleared and whether the ABS and ESC worked as normal once cleared? Thanks Matt

I fitted a JVC Car Play double din to my 2008 Octavia vRS in January. It’s the KW-M730BT. Mechless, but all my music is on me iPhone nowadays anyway. Has Bluetooth, and will take a reverse camera. Does both CarPlay and Android Auto. Had to get the canbus loom adaptor which was £45 but it does have the part for steering controls, which I don’t have, but was the only version they had in stock on the day. Also the powered aerial adaptor, as the aerial is powered by the headunit. Facia adaptor was about £20 off eBay. I did lose the radio info on Maxidot, the reverse sensor display and climatronic info. None of which I used anyway. So far I can’t fault the unit, I’ve had a few JVC units over the years and even the cheapest have been pretty much flawless. I did look at other brands but JVC have always seemed to me to be perfectly good enough for less money. Cant comment on Android Auto on the unit as I’m not an Android user, but if it works anything like CarPlay then its down to the phone rather than the headunit as to how smooth it works. I briefly used it with an old iPhone 5 and it was terribly slow and clunky, but then so was the the phone. With my previous 7 and now X it is wonderful. Can’t really comment on the call quality on either CarPlay or Bluetooth either as I don’t make or receive many calls in the car. But the few I have conducted don’t seem to have had any major issues at either end. Matt

I was on some rota'd days off from work, my mate Paul had booked the week off work, another mate, Ant, was on nights and the three of us had arranged to go and play pool at the Megabowl in Nottingham. A third mate, Dave, had pulled a sickie to join us lol. We went about 11ish, played some 9 ball, and then on the drive home Ant got a phone call from his sister telling him a plane had hit the trade centre. We hit Ant's front door about 2pm and got the TV on either just before or just after the 2nd plane hit. Spent the rest of the day round there flicking between BBC and ITV news. Saw everything else as it happened. Never before or since have I been as focused on watching live news as I was that day. Mainly same as Chriswright03 nowadays. No news is good news and all that.

If you mean to change just the pedal, I did a few weeks ago. It took me about 5 or 6 hours, with many many ciggy breaks, and a half hour phone call from a mate inbetween. I did struggle to get my arms round to the right place once I'd crawled into the footwell, with my back on the door sill, which was, as you can imagine, rather uncomfortable. Hence the many breaks. If I didn't have arms as long as Mr Tickle, but not as bendy, it probably would've been a bit easier.

I don't think it's a misfire. Bear with me here. The problem only really occurs whilst at low throttle input, most noticable in 2nd gear whilst accelerating steadily, and is intermittent. It's sort of a jerky feeling, similar to what I experienced when my MAF was shot, but not as harsh. Revs back right off straight away upon releasing the throttle causing sudden extreme engine braking. As you can imagine, it's not pleasant to drive. Now for the history. A couple of weeks ago, whilst giving it the beans, the clutch pedal suffered the common break of the weak spot welds, resulting in pedal to the floor and AA recovery. £37 for the parts and a few hours contorting myself into the footwell and all is well. Or so I thought. However, this is when the problem started. Car has been wonderful for the 4 years I've had it, no running issues after sorting the MAF. Even with this problem occuring whilst driving, there are no idling issues, smoother than a baby's shaved bum as it has always been, the revs never fluctuate on idle any more than they should. Upon re-reading things about the clutch pedal replacement, I've noticed something, that may show where my problem stems from. My master cylinder pushrod was slightly bent, which at the time I didn't think would be a problem, despite people saying they had straightened it, however I now think this could be the cause. Due to this the pedal doesn't sit as high at rest as it did previously. This, I noticed after a feel around yesterday, means the pedal is not fully pushing in the clutch pedal position switch. Maybe 1-1.5mm against the 5mm of travel that's available. From what I can gather about this switch, it tells the ECU that the clutch pedal has been depressed and drops the revs enough for a smooth gearchange. Now my thinking is, if this switch is not fully pressed could this cause the ECU to think the clutch pedal is actually pressed down and be trying to cut the revs for a gearchange? There seems to be limited information on this switch on the web, but I can't help thinking anything else would be too much of a coincidence.

The sound of the Jag F Type R passing me on the A614 near Clumber Park as I was returning home after dropping my 9 year old back at his mums in Gainsborough this evening.

I did my drivers for regulator a couple of weeks ago. Last time I did anything like this was retro fitting rear electric windows in my old Vectra. The Octy was a doddle in comparison to that. It took me 2 hours all in, including fag breaks, and thinking I had been sold the wrong regulator, till I realised it was in the fully open position and I was looking at it upside down when laid on the floor. Old one was removed from fully closed. As someone else has said, there's no need to remove the glass, just get it up into the closed position and tape it in place so it doesn't fall down. Make sure you keep a mental note of where the wiring loom runs around the door near the regulator, (I didn't, so took more time to work out where it should refit lol) I think I could do another now in under an hour.

1 = A 2 = A 3 = Depends. If it's the house next door I'll use the drive or block it. But, I did grow up there and my parents still live there hehe. Wouldn't do it anywhere else though.

The Postman?

Damn, I'd hoped it would last a bit longer than that! Well done Richf.

Nope not High School Musical. Or Teen Wolf.

Maximum Overdrive?