havoc924

surely someone has heard of this issue before..?

My driver’s door speaker does not work at all these days. On my old A4 i had the same problem; it was a cable running from the car to the door card, through the rubber section between the hinges that had broken, a simple connector and the problem was fixed. Might be the same problem with my octavia, i have just not had time to look yet, but that’s where i would start.

nope...

Any fault codes? Does the car crank over properly without coughing and spluttering?

My Mk2 Octavia does this also. The reason mine does is it because air is getting into the cabin from outside. The octavia is notorious for the seal around the rear quarter light/window breaking. Mine has such a small split I can’t even see it, I know it’s there because at 80ish mph you can hear the air getting in. I have always assumed that is why it freezes up. Cost of replacement is far too high; I cure the problem with a scraper and some gloves.

So here I am again, searching for yet another solution to another problem with my MK2 Octavia TDI. I think i know what the problem is but i would really appreciate all of your inputs and suggestions. The turbo has become intermittent, sometimes it boosts and sometimes its as dead as a dodo. The only fault code coming up is 16497 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High. So, assuming that was the culprit i have replaced the sensor with a brand new one, problem persists...! I have read on a few threads there is a common fault with the wiring positioned under the airbox.Before i go un-bolting most of my engine bay i was wondering if anyone else on here has had the problem and could guide me to the problem quicker. or has anone seen a guide with some pics about this anywhere? There is also talk about the MAF sensor being responsible but i am not getting any other fault codes? Please help, i am being forced into driving like an old man on a Sunday afternoon....!

Does anyone still have the pictures for this guide..... i need to replace mine now ? Thanks

I have the exact same problem with my clutch pedal. You can actually remove the pedal without disconnecting any of the hoses but itis tricky which is why i have not done it. You will have the ball on the end ofthe rod you just cant see it because it’s clipped into the white housing, when you see it you will know why there is no chace of it braking off. I did have a look at mine when it first started happening but could not bearsed to go through all that hassle. The pedal is a nightmare to put back in. They have the same pedals as most audi's and in my old A3 the weld that holdsthe white plastic clip broke and the master cylinder rod came through the otherside leaving me stranded. It's a common problem as they are a week weld. Not a lot you can do about it without changing the pedal. Hope this helps

Does the brake pedal lift up and down slightly when youbrake? If so it could be a slightly warped disc and this can cause vibration.

Just to make eveyone aware that may have this same problem........ changing the coolant temp sensor makes absolutely no differnce. The next job is to strip appart the starter motor and re-condition it.

Thanks, when i had a look last night i noticed my interior light was intermittent, sometimes i would open the door and have no light and sometimes it would work. I am thinking about taking the door panel appart to see whats in there, might be a loose wire, corroded connection etc.

A sensor fail, thats unlike Skoda...... (Sacasm incase anyone was wondering). Strange thing is the interior light works ok when the door is open as does the door light on the dash. May i ask if those worked when your light buzzer packed up? cheers

Hiya, in the end i had the engine speed sensor replaced. Since then it has not been a problem. I was not the best job to do as the sensor on my model was behind the gearbox however the box did not have to come off completely. Hope this helps

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a problem with the buzzer that alerts you if you have left the headlighs or sidelights on when you turn off the engine? All the other warning lights and warning noises work (i.e fuel, doors left open, seatbelt etc). Just one day it decided to stop buzzing. The car is a 2005 octavia 1.9 tdi classic. thanks in advance

i thought by buying a skoda your fairly safe that no-one is gonna chav it up and boy racer it..... how wrong was I.

hardly the same price bracket the guy is looking in is it....!

Just another thing, I did have a similar problem with my old Audi A4. Turned out one of the cables going thought the door harness had broken from excess use. Was easy to diagnose as it cut out all the electrics to the door. At night turn the lights on and make sure the backlight on all the electric window switches are lit up and the door electrics work ok, that will eliminate that as being the problem. I don’t for a minute think it’s that but its costs nothing to check it.

Klaki yes i did fix the problem in the end. The rear wiper was not working because the car thought the boot was left open, after slamming it shut a few times the problem went away. The other day it came back so i decided to spray the latch with GT85 and it cured the problem. I am not sure how long it will last but if it goes again i will strip the boot lid appart and investigate further. The chances are its you boot lid sesor/latch, since having this problem i have discovered it is a common fault and 9 times out of 10 the boot lid is responsible. CHeers

Few tips on checking history without a service book. * HPI it as a priority, £3 these days. * Dont worry too much about the MOT's as its not needed that many but see if they where done by the same dealer. * Have a look at the MOT (or on VOSA's website) to see if there where are advisories. * How many previous owners and do the old MOT's tie in with the change of owner dates and location. * Check the writing on the number plates front and rear, if they are different it can often indicate it has been in an accident * If there are main dealer stickers on it anywhere you could always call the dealer and ask they if they have any record of service. * Have a look on the V5 & current MOT for staple marks in the top corner. Auctions always staple them to the auction form. In adition if there is a barcode sticker on the bottom corner of the windscreen it has more than likely been through British Car Auctions * Is the seller the same as on the log book and how long has he owned it for, If its only a few months it indicates there is a problem he cant/does not want to fix * Check the car starts well both hot and cold, modern diesels engines hide there problems very well and you need to listen a lot harder for problem. I hope all this helps, a lot of its common sense but easy to forget. Peter

my old 1997 passat tdi had 240,000 on the clock when i sold it with nothing wrong. My old boss used an automatic audi a4 tdi with 360,000 on the clock i recently sold an A4 tdi with 130,000 on the clock and i currently own an Octavia II tdi with 130,000 on it. The octavia is the only one i have had problems with but i would not want to blame that on the mileage.

Read my current thread about the engine speed sensor, otherwise known as the crankshaft possition sensor, http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/184320-octavia-ii-19tdi-pd-engine-speed-sensor/ this might help with that problem. I think the oxygen sensor may be part of the MAF sensor, if so i found a guide online on how to remove and clean them (saves buying a new one). Cheers

i recently replaced my battery but before doing so i called skoda for a price (was only really fishing for exactly what battery to get) anyway..... they told me i would need to bring it into them to fit because the steering light would need to be re-set. Me being me i though they where bulsh*tting me and i went ahead and changed the battery myself. Like your problem the light did come on but after 15 miles of driving it the light went off by itself and has never come back on. In addition i do have vag-com and it never registered as a fault code (skoda lied to me yet again). If you do manage to get it on a VAGCOM and it is showing a fault with the radio it means the battery has been changed, not sure what the fault code was as mine never asked me for the radio code but it was triggered by the battery change anyway. Hope this helps.

Thanks IanVW, i took your advise and got under the car this morning. I removed the undertray and looked at the starter motor. There is no sign of wear or damage to any of the wires running by the starter motor, i took some pics but cant figure out how to upload them onto this blog. I have heard that the earth strap on these is weak too but again i had a look at it and cant see it being a problem. Car goes in on wednesday to have the sensor replaced, i am convinced that is the cause of all my headaches.... will post the outcome.