chris-t

I went to see some friends a few day back (400 mile round trip) and if was fine after about 30 minutes of driving and never glitched once. It's almkst like there is a capacitor or rechargeable battery in the unit that is failing......currently trying to find a diagram of the inside of it

Hi there In the past few days my Columbus unit has started glithching. It will turn itself off while playing music and when it starts up again, will carry on playing from where it left off (from SD card). Today (26/12) it stopped, the the screen went black with a few vertical white lines and it only came back on again when I turned off the engine and took out the key. It did still turn on and off but didn't do anything. I haven't looked yet to see if there is a wire/plug loose but has anyone has this and if so, what did you do to fix it?? Cheers

Hi there I'm trying to remove the drive shafts from the Haldex Unit on my Superb. One side came out really easy but the other side is refusing to move, all the bolts are removed and I can't work out why. There was a substantial amount of grease on the outside of the unit so grease is obviously escaping. Am I missing something obvious?

Hi all I'm looking at buying a salvage Mk2 Superb and swapping parts off it onto my car. The salvage car has the optional heated front windscreen fitted, where as mine doesn't. Would it be a completely ridiculous and very impossible to remove the heated screen, heater control panel and potential wiring and install it on my Superb? If I am able to swap everything over, I would then assume that it would need to be coded to?

Nope, Haldex oil wasn't changed. It isn't due until October when it will be changed. The back plates are fine too. After doing some digging, I'm thinking that the wheel bearing maybe on it's way out

I have a bit of an odd issue with my 2010 4x4 Estate, which I assume are the rear brakes. I few months ago the rear discs, pads and calipers were changed as the discs and pads were worn and the calipers were seized. During the past week, after about 20 minutes of driving and after turning left there is a squealing/screaming noise coming from the rear. Just before it starts squealing, it judders as if it's about to stall. I have stripped the rear brakes completely, cleaned and greased the whole lot and put it back together and it's still doing it. The rear calipers were aftermarket ones but I can't see how that would make a difference, unless they're the wrong ones. The only other thing I can think of a potential problem with the haldex system but there are no stored codes. Anyone had this issue or have any ideas as to what it could potentially be?

It's been to my local mechanics, both rear calipers are siezed.......

The tool was last used on an L reg Passat Estate, it's a sykes pickavant tool but I've checked and it does fit. I've used the tool before and double checked the genuine repair guide to make sure I'm turning it the right way. It does have hill hold control but the cars been turned off for a good couple of days and the wheels turned before I started. The tool isn't moving at all, I'm wondering if the caliper has siezed? The car is 13 years old and done 130K miles.

The rear brakes on the Superb started squeaking and grinding, decided after nearly 70K it's time to change the discs and pads. I can't wind in the caliper piston, I have (an aftermarket version) of the correct tool (T10165), the hand brake is off but it just won't move. Do I need to replace the caliper? Cheers

My 2010 Estate has developed an annoying electrical issue with the drivers front and rear doors. The Loom from the A Pillar to the drivers door broke and that has been repaired but the drivers side rear door electrics (Window, Lock , Light) have also stopped working. Carista brings up a fault code of 01334 -Door Control Module; Right Rear (J389). I have changed the control unit for a 2nd hand one from a scrapper but it's not fixed it. The cables from the main body to the door are fine also. Has anyone had this fault before and got a solution?

Hi all I've changed the front springs, struts, top mounts, drop links and lower wish bone bushes as they were worn out but I've not got an unusual knocking noise. It's N/S front and appears to be from under the passenger floor. I've had the car up and checked everything that I've done (all bolts are tight) and can't find any movement in either the anti roll bar or the bottom ball joint. They're the only parts that I haven't replaced. My guess is that it's either anti roll bar or bottom ball joint that's failed.

I have a 2010 2.0TDi Elegance 4x4 Estate that's done 114K miles and the shocks and springs are starting to wear out. I need slightly more ground clearance than what my current suspension is offering and was wondering if fitting the 'Outdoor' model shocks and springs would work or if I'd need to change bushes as well. I'd get the tracking done at the same time as I'd change all 4 corners at once. Cheers

A while back, I downloaded the Vehicle-specific Information for my Superb from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do I haven't really looked at it that much until today and I noticed that apparently my vehicle is fitted with 'Tailgate/trunk lid release frim inside (electrically)'. As far as I'm aware (and I've owned the car for over 5 years) my car hasn't got this fitted. I can't see it being removed, so surely the information is wrong or I've just been unaware of a feature on my car for the last 5 years..... Has anyone else got it for their vehicle and found something odd?

I was an apprentice technician at a Skoda dealer and then moved into their parts department, everything was always itemised and especially with tyres we always made sure that we asked what brand (if any they wanted)

It's a 225/40 18. When the wife spoke to him, she did express surprise that he had one in stock as everywhere we've ever asked for them to be fitted, they've had to be ordered in but he assured her that it was right.