Stu vRS

I had the boot LEDs and rear indicator bulbs. Not sure specifically which caused the issue but definitely one of them did.

Please, please guys be careful when replacing the stock lights with LEDs. I had exactly the same faults as described a few years ago, boot warning, interior light faults, all caused by swapping standard lights to LEDs. Ended up frying my BCM and costing £1600 for new modules and coding! All my lights both interior and exterior are back to standard now and will be staying that way.

Following this as my memory seats haven't worked for a long time and there's quite a few fault codes associated with them. Driving seat to limits in up, down, back, front, etc made no difference. Car seems to select my profile correctly every time on dashboard.

To remove the light switch, turn it to the 'auto' position, press the switch in and turn left to the 'off' position, this releases the retaining lugs and you should be able to pull the whole switch out.

Hi, The tapping noise I think is fairly normal to the TSI engines, mine has done it for as long as I can remember. You are probably hearing the injectors, they are mega noisy for some reason, even more pronounced when cruising along at about 30mph like you suggested. There is also a cycle, think it is something to do with the evap system that causes intermittent tapping noises every so often. I wouldn't worry.

Just an update. Did this yesterday and yes the caliper bolts are bloody tight. There is enough room to get an impact gun on the bottom but because an extension is needed it robs all the torque and doesn't budge. I ended up getting the bottom one with a long breaker from underneath and the top one was inaccessible so I took out the rear shocks to get at them with a breaker. Taking the shock out is easy as I've done it before for the end stops. No chance of jacking under a ratchet as it moves with the suspension unit so unless the axle stands are on the control arm this won't work. Reused the old bolts and put some copper slip on them although I can't see the brakes being done again for the life of the car. I can't see them backing off as they have a locking washer on them anyway. The discs were rusted on fairly tight so took some bashing with a mallet to shift them. Good idea to clean the mating face up on the hubs and copper slip it. Also repainted the stone guards whilst the discs were off as they were looking worse for wear. Not too bad of a job for anyone thinking of doing it, just got to be patient and think outside the box a bit.

Bugger.

Is there enough clearance to get an impact gun in?

That's what I was thinking of doing, mini 1/2 breaker and jack underneath, failing that the air impact wrench is coming out! Surely it can't be as bad as everyone is making out (tempting fate here)

Not enjoying reading this when I've got the rear brakes to do this week! By the way its an M14 triple square, not torx.

Great cheers, I'll have a think about it and get back to you

Great cheers, only concern is you're very far away from me, I'm over Preston way and I bet it's too big to be posted!

Does this come with the crossbeam to attach the towbar to? Does this require bumper cutout on the Octavia VRS (60 plate) (I noticed you said no bumper cutout but not sure if this applied to VRS)?

Fair shout, mine is Bolero in Octavia so wrong surround for Columbus, when I considered this in the past the cost of a surround from Skoda was herrendous, about £50 odd quid if I remember.

Maybe interested if the price drops and it comes with the surround

No problem. From skoda workshop manual below: Number 5 are your 2 top bolts, these are reletaively tight and can get to them behind the arch liner Number 4 is the bloody tight lower strut bolt, have fun with this one. Maybe a bit of penetrating oil first. Number 6 is the plastic cover that slides onto the bump stop and stops all the dirt getting in 16mm nut is underneath that dome plastic cover on top of strut but will spin and you need something to grip the flats on the strut. You WILL need a deep 16mm offset ring spanner to get at this and stilll be able to get on the flats, a socket wont do it. Anything else you need to know let me know EDIT: Before / after picture haha:

Hi, I did this repair to my MK2 Octavia recenly. I would recommend changing it as its dead cheap and stops muck and dirt getting into the seals of the damper. You do not need a new shock, you can buy the bump stops seperately. P/N 3C0511359B or Febi 23504 off eBay (same part but cheaper). Mk2 Octavia is the round type bump stop, not oval. Jack rear up, wheels off. 2 bolts in top bracket behind the arch liner 1 lower bolt to take whole damper out (this bolt is very tight and its a bugger to get at with a breaker bar, sometimes taking the spring out makes it easier) 16mm deep offset spanner and some grips to take the top mount off the strut off Slide old knackered bump stop off, new one on (easier with soapy water) Reverse of above for fitment! Couple hours in total, just remember to put blanking cap on top of strut back on (I forgot and had to pull to bits again!) Hope this helps. Stu.

Good stuff, if I have any issues in the future I hope you don't mind me contacting you!

Also, you will need a double deep hockey puck like this, to reach either side of the sills / seams without actually jacking on them: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trolley-Jack-Tool-Rubber-pad-Pinch-Weld-slot-20mm-Deep-10mm-jacking-Classic-Car/282802163381?hash=item41d8528eb5:g:IFYAAOSwdG9XRMGt

Rizmod, do you have the tools for injector seals when doing this? Got a feeling mine will do this in the coming years haha!

Bought one off a member on here, ended up selling it as it pushed the bonnet up on the side where it was fitted. Keep the original strut.

Hockey puck for jacking yes. My seams have a few bends in them from garages jacking incorrectly. Front axle stands fit perfectly under rear control arm bushes, assuming it's not the control arm you're working on! On the rear I have put stands underneath, but can't quite remember where exactly, here is a picture I have:

Getting slightly put off with the amount of reviews I've seen saying the Erisin units fail after a few months, geting DAB working seems to a faff as well, seems only certain dongles will work with cerain DAB apps.

Cheers, what the sound quality like for phone calls with the Android HU's? Steering wheel controls still work for phone? Cheers.

Hi guys, been looking at the Bolero shaped units on and off for years now and never took the plunge. I already have BT built in with a proper Skoda bluetooth module (retrofit), what is the case with using in built bluetooth with the Android HU or can it not be done?