One Pot

Interesting, no a Sheep!

Hi, surprised that I couldn’t find this on the Forum, but my OSF headlight has changed to a red/pink. The brightness has not dropped, but is this just an indication of imminent failure? Or is there a cure? Superb 2. 2011 Thank you Onepot

Hi Richtung, there was some debate whether mine had the additional stat, but it did. Easiest way to check is to use a Mk1 eyeball. You may need to remove the ait intake pipe which runs above the gearbox, but then look for the coolant pipes which sit on top of the g/box. One of them should have the stat inline. Looks like this: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi1u9Gf_PndAhWLtO0KHbO9CMsYABALGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.co.uk&cid=CAESQeD2Fh3hp9zXmRgV8iNszmpMsrFn5B1MpRDtpyjoZaUMIefCGbRfhxEEXwaHMeJedqkN_K5qGHfQJyAb4XSePkS2&sig=AOD64_2fqAhwMhFx-Pf033YguTdlclGivQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwj09cuf_PndAhWLDcAKHSmCDWMQwg8IMw&adurl=

Thank you Langers2k, It will certainly get sorted. I also stumbled across this if it is of use to anyone! VCDS Owners map

Hi Chimera, in fairness to the garage, they did diagnose the fault codes, (see first post) but were honest enough to say they had no experience, or specific training on the particular system. Lights have been adjusted to meet the MOT requirements and I will now take some time to do a thorough investigation.

Quick update. My "specialist" VW garage had no experience of the AFS. My problem was that the AFS failure gave a non-MOT acceptable beam pattern. The garage have mechanically adjusted the headlights to provide an acceptable pattern which means that I can now retrieve my car and get it investigated else where, but with an MOT! I will update the eventual solution! Cheers all Onepot

Hi Pdrisc I repaired my loom (it was the thick Red wire in my case) by pushing the loom back into the door and removing the door check strap and the cardboard bulge at the top of the door. The loom then could be drawn through the aperture covered by the cardboard bulge and access was much better - I am similarly blighted with big hands!! When the door card is removed there is a tag on the loom with the part number on. mine was 3T2 971 120 CC, but the current revision is Revision E with part number 3T2 971 120 CE. It is still in the bag in my garage - PM< me if it is OK for you and we can agree a price Onepot

Hi , My trusty superb has let me down at MOT time. The Headlight control module is able to communicate with the diagnostic computer, but it is reading the following faults 1537 - Sender for levelling supply voltage out of range 496 Sensor front vehicle level Open/Short circuit 497 Sensor rear vehicle level Open/Short circuit When powering up the car, the headlights do not move in any way, and are set to illuminate the ground 4 feet in front of the car. I struggle to believe that various wires have failed simultaneously, Do these symptoms indicate anything? thank you Onepot

Hi Pdrisc, schoolboy error on my part! After doing the repair on the loom and putting everything back together, the main connector on the door control unit almost fell into the right place, and looked in the correct position, so when I put it all back together, the door still failed to work, so I assumed further broken wires in the loom, and purchased a new one. Once the loom arrived I set about the loom replacement and imagine my surprise when one connector was clearly just sitting in position. I reassembled everything and it all worked! Doh! I had a good look at the door lock connector and cannot see a way to remove it without removing the main window mounting plate, but didn’t go any further! Therefore I have a fully functioning door and a brand new door loom! If anyone needs one! ! Reminds me of my motto, if anything breaks, check the last thing you touched first!

Hi Pdrisc, I have not done it yet, this weekends job, but I do not anticipate any difficulties. The door knows it’s own way off by now. Leave the glass in its uppermost position. Remove the area containing the window controllers, it just pops off. Unscrew the 2 large torx screws this reveals. Pop off the tweeter cover, disconnect and remove 1 smaller torx screw just behind the door open lever. unscrew the 2 torx screws on the bottom of the door, then with a bit of wiggling the door card will come off. Disconnect all connectors. for access I found it easier to remove the door stay and the carDboard cover then I guess the trick is just to unthread the loom. The only bit bit that concerns me is the connection to the door lock which disappears into the door with apparently little access, perhaps the speaker needs to come out. Maybe there is someone out there who knows!! I got my loom from http://www.skodaparts.com/ which is just a web outlet for Bickerton Skoda in Sheffield, but certainly a good place for OEM spares, and much cheaper than my local dealer. I guess the loom is a main dealer part only. Note Ted earlier in this post my loom was suffix CC, but the curr3nt version is suffix CE which I now understand is a revision upgrade. Hopefully the upgrade did not change the wire positions, but included better wire technology and a general improvement, however mine lasted 120k miles so if this one takes me to 240k miles, it probably won’t be my problem! If if I run into any problems I will post here. Wish me luck!

Hi all, I have a 2011 Superb2 and I have just experienced a door loom failure. I repaired one wire, but things soon went wrong again. To eliminate the problem I decided to jot down the loom number and buy a replacement. the loom fitted is 3T2 971 120 CC. (Copied off the loom tag) But on enquiry at a Skoda dealer the “correct” number is 3T2 971 120 CE. can anybody validate this piece of information? Or identify the differences? thank you Onepot

Thanks Rustynuts, there is a microphone, and incidentally a couple of years ago pressing this and saying "Navigation" it used to reply "and further". But recently it only beeps. Since the German invasion, the button now does nothing, the same for the press of the roller on the steering wheel. cheers onepot

2 years later, has anybody found a solution? Mine has just switched to German with no ability to convert back to English. thanks Onepot

Hi Juhagpl, if you change a thermostat, you can check the temperature drop using a thermometer, but if you don't have the kit to check the temperature, then always change the DSG stat first. (As it is much cheaper and much easier to change) good luck One Pot

And yes, it solved the problem!!

Hi John, I understand that the additional stat is only on DSG models. to change it, all you need to do (on the Superb 2011) is to remove the air intake pipe between the engine and the battery. The stat sits on top of the gearbox at the joint between the box and the engine. you should clearly see the oil/water heat exchanger on top of the box. follow one of the pipes and you will see the stat in-line on one of the pipes. i completely removed the pipe and plugged the open ports. then changed the stat on the bench - lost about 1 litre of coolant. took about 20 mins to change, all access from the top of the engine. good luck.

I stumbled across Autodoc website which is a German website but provides a UK outlet. the part can be found here! http://www.autodoc.co.uk/mahle-original/7815022 Prices include shipping, which can take 4 to 5 days, UPS from Germany Not great for an urgent job, but for this it was fine.

As it is quiet out there, I will answer my own questions! Yes the VW part number is correct The thermostat is actually in-line in one of the hoses leading to the oil cooler on top of the DSG Box if you have cooling problems try this one first, £15 and 15 mins to fit. Mine failed after some high speed towing in southern germany, likely prolonged high temperatures.

Is the OEM part number: 1K0 121 113 AThanks

Hi all, Is there a DSG thermostat?? main dealer says that there isn't one. Could the "Thermostat" be the temperature sender unit on the Gearbox? Yours Confuddled from Nannerch!

I too have a 2.0 170bhp DSG6 superb with a big change in the way the temperature gauge operates. Prior to a long trip (towing) to Europe, the gauge jumped up pretty quickly to 90deg. and stayed there rock solid all day. Yes it is clear from the OBD that there is a bit of fluctuation, but 90 is indicated at all times. On return from Europe the gauge just creeps above 50, and the oil temp also does not rise as far as it used to, max oil about 75deg, previously 90deg plus and sometimes when working hard up to 110Deg. OBD shows coolant temp varies much with use, long down hills bring the temp down to 55deg, long uphills might reach 70deg I have changed the Engine Thermostat with no impact and also the Engine sender unit (not my logic to change it, but advised it might help) Next step to change the DSG thermostat. is there anything else that might influence this? Thanks

Hi, I have found the problem with my wiper blades reluctance to move. The motor was very crudded up with very short motor brushes. and lots of grease-like debris in the motor housing. I have cleaned the motor and it now works, but I guess only temporarilly Here is my dilema: The motor code is 1J2 955 113 B But I can only find 1J0 955 119 all over the web - I cannot find any references to my motor Does anyone know whether these are equivalent? They look pretty similar Mine is a 1999 1.9TD Octavia Thanks One Pot If something breaks - look at the last thing you mended first