jimbojames

Does the lumpy idle only happen at startup, or for 5-10 minutes after startup? Might be the cam angle sensors, I had the same thing on mine, lumpy idle for a while, then it sorts itself out, no fault codes, but checking the specified value against the actual value for the cam angle sensors on OBDII showed a discrepancy between them for the intake. Replaced the sensor, no more issues.

So I've had this issue again with the same sensor, again with oil in the plug. I cleaned it out, and it was fine again. I thought it might be me being messy topping up the oil, so I made sure to use a funnel carefully ever since, but after a few months, same again, oil in the plug. I'm wondering how this might be getting in there, perhaps some oil gallery wearing on the cam, allowing the oil to get into the sensor... I'm certainly not going to strip the cam down for that though, as I have two sensors now, so I just swap it, then clean it out ready for the next time it.

Checked with my OBD11, and found the 'camshaft adjustment, intake bank 1, specified value' and '... actual value' did not match. At idle was asking for 10° but bouncing around 40°. Took both the cam angle sensors off to check part numbers etc, and found the rear one (which must be inlet) had oil filling the electrical connector. I don't think that would be beneficial to the operation! I cleaned the oil out, and sure enough, no more issues, but I've ordered a new one anyway, as the seal is allowing oil into the connector - £42 from dealers. Part number is 06L 109 259A for anyone else. The sensors are located at the top left of the engine as you look at it, just below the oil fill and dipstick. 3 x T30 screws holding each in.

Just started getting this exact issue as well. @Bingodalton where is the cam shaft sensor located? I'm assuming one end of one of the cams?

One thing I would add to this is regarding the turbo. I have a 2013 petrol vrs dsg on 129k miles, and the actuator on the turbo seized at around 90k I think. This is an issue to a small extent on the early model turbo's, and is a recall item for the US on VAG cars, but not in UK/Europe for some reason. There are horror stories of the actuator sticking when fully open, causing the turbo to overspin and destroy itself into the engine. Thankfully mine stuck only partly open. I battled with Skoda to get anything out of them but was ultimately unsuccessful. Cost for a replacement was £1300 (keeping the car till it dies, so worth going for genuine parts I thought). Here's some reading for you That said, this is really the only issue I've ever had with the car, but it was a big one!

Very interesting install, thanks! I use Google maps all the time when driving - mainly for traffic jam spotting. Have you used that at all? How well does it work if so?

I get this every time I drive on a specific section of road near my workplace, that's relatively new. Wonder if the car navigation thinks I'm rejoining the road at that point? Is the road near your daughters school new?

Whoops yeah you're right! Was sure I'd done one of the rear ones... Glad you got sorted anyway.

• 2.0 TFSI 220 • 2013 VRS Hatch • 122k miles • Cambelt - n/a uses a chain • 6 speed DSG • Gearbox oil: changed 1 time • Water pump replaced in year 2 under warranty. REVO Stage 1 map at 89k. Turbo replaced at 108k due to seized actuator (thankfully seized only slightly open, so didn't over-spin and disintegrate into my engine!) • Original clutch and flywheel

I replaced it with this exact unit in October last year, no issues. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264369735991

Yes! Exactly the same. I had a petrol VRS MK2 Octavia for a few years, then a diesel MK2 Octavia for a year or so, and never had the sticking brakes issues, but as soon as I got the MK3, along came the problem. The discs and pads were changed once under warranty, but then they said it was my fault for applying the handbrake when the brakes were too hot, typical dealer answer that I strongly disagreed with to no avail! Then I replaced them myself with a very budget set a few years later to see the difference (these were the ones that delaminated!), then a brembo set early last year. The handbrake uses the same pads as the foot brake, just used a cable instead of the brake fluid, but the MK2 had a similar design, so not sure what changed. I know my Landcruiser uses a set of brake shoes with the inside of the brake disc also a brake drum, this seems to work much better, but is obviously more complicated. Sliding pins are well greased, I fully cleaned and regreased the calipers both times I changed the discs/pads, something the dealer didn't do... Hill hold I think only cuts in on upward slopes, most of my parking is facing downhill, so don't think hill hold has an impact here. This can happen on a summers day where any form of water/condensation isn't an issue. @WeeKevT555 I'd be interested in what the dealers say about this, as it doesn't seem to be an isolated thing.

Hi All, I've had my 2.0 petrol DSG mk3 vrs for about 6 years now, and since day one, the back brakes have always stuck on if I use the handbrake when parked for a few hours to a few days. 95% of the time I can park on the flat, so I just leave it in park with minimal pressure on whatever it is in the DSG box that stops the car rolling, but the 5% of time that the slope is too great for that, I use the handbrake. Every single time I go to pull away, the back brakes clunk to release the pads from the discs, once pulling the friction material off the pads! The calipers move fine, and they release OK when taking off the handbrake, but the pads always stick. I've had different discs/pads over the years, and it does it with every make, even the brembo's that are on at the moment. Type of driving before parking doesn't effect it either, could be driving like my mum and not really used the brakes at all, so no heat in them when parking, or driving a bit spirited leaving some heat in them, they still stick either way. I've touched the brakes when parking, and they're not remotely warm to the touch, so pads aren't binding on, heating then up. I'm at a loss as to what to do, other than chocking the car when on a slope, which is rather impractical. Any thoughts?

A positive update! I managed to roughly locate the air leak somewhere around the crankcase breather, so ordered a new part from Skoda. Part that came off was 06K 103 495 P, and the updated part number is BM at the end instead. £70. Very easy to replace, though needed a new crimped hose clamp thingy, not sure what they're called. Started it up, no leaking air noise, reset the fault codes, took it for a drive, all back to normal. @steved83 mine is a DSG too, but didn't have any fuel economy issues. 40mpg on the way to work (slightly down hill overall). When I lifted off the throttle it would still apply about 25% throttle for a few seconds before dropping back, another symptom for you! Sounds like you've got something else wrong with yours. I would highly recommend getting yourself an OBDeleven, this is the second time I've been able to avoid dealer prices for diagnosis and repair, and as the car is 7 years old now, they're only gonna get more frequent!

Morning all, Just had my car back from MOT (coincidence probably) but when I got home the idle was hunting between 1250 and 1500 rpm. Checked fault codes with OBDeleven and am getting the following; P050700 - Idle control system - RPM higher than expected (obvious one!) P006800 - MAP/MAF Throttle Position correlation P227900 - Intake Air System Leak (there is a hissing I can't find in the engine bay) Looking in other forums I'm thinking like it might be the PCV valve, either stuck or leaking gasket. Anyone else have any experience here? Car has done 120k, REVO remap at 88k and had the turbo replaced at 100k (infamous actuator failure, thankfully stuck in slightly open position so still some boost, and turbo didn't disintegrate itself into the engine) Had no other issues with the car other than the water pump issue fixed under warranty at 15k. I've had it since 6k, and 99% of mileage put on since has been normal. Only used the launch control 3 times!