Schtopper

In my opinion Sven has 3 options. He runs with a standard 4:4:2 with rooney and crouch up front and subs rooney for wallcott when rooney tires (which will happen on sunday, he may manage 90 minutes if we make it past that game). He switches to a 4:5:1, starting with rooney and swapping for crouch once rooney gets tired. He sticks to 4:4:2 with rooney and crouch up front but switches to a 4:5:1 when rooney tires and perhaps pulls in lennon to replace roonie, freeing beckham up for long crosses as he did again T&T. As far as I am concerned if we do find ourselves 2 goals up during the match on sunday he HAS to put walcott on. If either crouch or rooney get injured, or sent off and have to miss a match, he's gonna be forced to play walcott at some point.

if I blip my throttle, as in just dap so it barely even moves the revs, yeah I get engine wobble. My gear lever doesn't wobble or vibrate though, well no more than you'd expect given the cables run allong one of the exhaust shields. What exactly happened to your car?

Has everyone forgotten that the cool wall is simply that, it has nothing to do with how good a car is or not, it's purely based on whether some bird will sleep with you if you drive that car, as in based on how 'cool' the car is. JC has always said it's a cracking little car for what it is, he doesn't like diesels though and prolly never will, he's a petrol head, but it's not a cool a car, no Skoda is cool, just the same as how no BMW is cool baring maybe the M class. The only reason you should be bothered is if you bought a car purely to be cool in which case you shouldn't have bought a skoda.

Clutch should be rated to 300LbFt i believe so clutch should be fine, just don't do burn outs or start jamming ya foot down all the time at low revs in 6th. Yes the dealer will know, as soon as they take it out and stick their foot down (which they will) they'll know it's remapped. If ya after one whilst under warranty then you'll need a switchable unit, either AMD or Revo with the SPS thingy then ya can return to standard.

I don't pay much attention to the temp gauge anyway it can help tell ya if things are over heating but like I said my last car never shifted, the temp sensor was working fine, but it still didn't stop it blowing it's head gasket in magnificent style. That's what happens when it blows a huge hole in it and coolant floods the engine in seconds, it never gets chance to over heat

Mine goes to the halfway mark and then never shifts, doesn't even flicker. But that's consistent with my other cars, my last car used to sit just below halfway and never shifted either, no matter the weather or if I was in traffic, but the fan did come on, I just don't think ya can here it in the fab.

pah He-Man all the way

What I want to know is how far does this go, I mean if I fit goodyear eagle F1s instead of the contis that the car came with when I need to change the tyres can that invalidate my warranty if say the tracking or CV joints or something steery related thing goes all doowhacky?? I mean ok I know it doesn't, or at least I don't think it does, but can you really honestly say that changing the tyres to a different brand is any less drastic than sticking in a foam panel air filter?? I mean the car is designed to use air, and it's designed to use no more air than it needs a foam filter simply allows a freer flow of air and without the need to replace it. Cars are also desgined to stick to the road, this is done primarily by the tyres, some tyres help it stick to the road better than the others, but unlike the air filter I don't believe any car manufacturer would do you for fitting a different brand of tyre so long as it met the minimum manufacturers requirement for that item. A panel filter however, I think, will invalidate your warranty. Just seems nuts to me to be honest.

A 3year warranty is an agreement with the manufacturer and not a statory right. As with anything you buy you are entitled that the product you have purchased is fit for the purpose for which it was intended and that it will maintain this fitness for a given period (unfortunatley I can't rember how long that period is, 30days?). That is your statutory right and they can't touch that. Modifcation, as everyone knows, voids this contract it is a condition of the 3 year warranty, we will honor this agreement on the condition that....regular service etc, remains unmodified etc etc. If they so wished they would have every legal right to viod the warranty completely on ALL components if they found a car to be modified. In practice most manufcaturers, and I assume sloda too, will simply void the warranty on the modified part and on any fault that they have be associated to developing as a direct result of the modification. This should mean that if you stick new wheels on ya car then your body work warranty, electrical warranty, engine warranty will probably remain intact but they would probably turn down a claim due to worn out wheel bearings or CV joints or something else connected to that system. As far as I am aware nearly all mass car manufacturers take this kind of stance. I think what skoda should be doing though, and I don't want to get into whether or not they are in the wrong for trawling forums for modified vehicles, is listening to the buying public and sort out the stuff that causes people to modify in the first place. Ok most modifications are just due to taste, new wheels, more power etc, but some modifications are done purely because the standard factory fit item is simply crap. Look at the 312mm brake mod for the fabia vRS, look at how many people do it and most people do it because they find the standard brakes to be whoefully inadequate and I don't even mean for fast track driving we're talking normal A to B driving. Surely it wouldn't cost much more just to stick 312mm brakes on the damn thing in the first place, they allready have the parts and I refuse to accept that they cost much more than the ones allready on the fab.

No we're still in the giving details and paying for the deposit stage. I have just phoned josephine and handed over my deposit and she says she is still waiting for 2 more people to get in touch (so hurry up people! ).

Same as what i've got, mine has the 512Mb upgrade. Pretty crappy really, not good for gaming, but fine for everything else.

Don't be TOO concerned with taking a car on finance over 5 years. If you plan on owning the car then it's a bit of a rip off but if you are not planning on owning it at the end there are options. Point 1, do NOT take out payment protection, it is a rip off any financial advisor worth his salt will tell you that in reality it isn't worth the paper it's written on. In many cases you can't even claim, thus rendering it useless. It really does bump up the monthly payments and for 99% of the people the outlay just isn't worth it. Point 2, make sure it is a HIGHER PURCHASE agreement. In this instance the finance company (e.g. black horse) own the car for the entire agreement period, you simply hire the car from them. Once you have paid 30-40% of the repayment total the finance company can no longer take the car off you without a court order even if you haven't paid your payments. Secondly and this is the MAIN point i was getting to (eventually), nearly all higher purchases agreements come with a statutory 'voluntary termination' clause. What this allows you to do is end the agreement at any point and give the car back to them. There is a condition, you MUST have paid off 50% of the total repayment value. If you have not paid 50% then the finance company MAY allow you to make a one off payment to acheive this 50% (it's in their interest to do this as the car will be worth more than making you wait). So in short although your agreement is for 5 years, you are not stuck with 5 years, after 2.5years you can simply hand the car back and start again. You will NOT be blacklisted for this, it is your right to do so. Downside, you will not have a car as part exchange when you go to buy another. I did this with my last car, after having plenty of problem and with MG-Rover going bust I realised the car simply wasn't worth anything to me anymore and I effectively had a lot of negative equity. So i contacted blackhorse, arranged for voluntary termination (paid £700 to take me to the 50% mark), within a week they had sent the forms, i arranged to drop it off at the auction house and within two weeks of the phone call I had got rid of it and ordered a fabia vRS. So don't worry too much about the 5 year thing, there is an option to get out of it so long as you don't mind not having a car to exchange at the end.

Higher up the speedo the laguna would take a lead over the vRS on a straight. Given the torque of the dci the weight differences between the two cars is less important. Lower down and probably through the mid range the vRS will be quicker, it has a shorter ratio gearbox for a start. It will also be slightly better round the twisty stuff than the laguna. So yeah on a track the vRS would be the quicker car, on the motorway I would say from 70mph the laguna would pull away from the fabia.

ok well if it does come off for certain with the standard pipes I shall leave them on for now and when I need to change the pads I will have a go, if i can't do it then i'll just swap them for the TT pipes when I do that.

Which sliders?