max25591

Thanks for the feedback I will enquire regarding water pump as that should be a smaller job and not need a new supercharger?

Hi I have been lurking since I bought new in 2011. Keeping an eye on all topics, and scaring myself with all the horror stories of the vrs being a ticking time bomb... I have had it since 2011, now with 72k miles, I thought I had one of the "good" ones as it initially used about of oil but sorted itself out and had all the gearbox mineral change e.t.c. but did suffer from missfires from time to time The other day I was on the motorway when I tried to overtake and I got a big missfires. Which caused me distress as the oil light was flickering until I got to a stop and restarted and was fine. I took to machanic to get it checked out and replaced all plugs as he said they looked like they had done 20k miles - they shouldn't have as I asked and was charged for replacing the plus only a few months prior. I thought that was problem solved, but it was only the beginning, unfortunately. Initially it was fine but the mechanic said it may has a knocking and told me to monitor it. The it misfired again within a week so it went back. He replaced plugs but said it isnt driving right and when he swapped over the sensor, he couldn't clear a fault code and should take it next door to the electric guy. Which I did, when he was next free a week later. In the meantime the oil light was on constantly and it had decided to put a 3k rpm rev limiter on itself, useful! When I took to the electric guy he eventually found and cleared the fault it was a fuse was being blow to the super charger, even on start up. So it took him 2 hours £180 later and I still had the same problems as I went In There. His advise was that the supercharger clutch is broken/constantly engaged. He wasn't sure if it could be replaced or the whole supercharger had to be. I am sure I have seen a few people have to replace their superchargers and would like your feedback! I was quoted £1.1k for a new supercharger with fitting, as it's quite a big job? For now I'm stuck with 3k rev limiter and apparently no way of bypassing the supercharger. Any advise much appreciated!

Thanks for the feedback! I did not realise they were so old, and definitely didn't know that they are bankrupt stock. I assumed as it was nearly new that they would have warranty, but as many have mentioned it would be unlikely. As these cars have been imported, back and forth, would these cars be classed as 'imports' or as it is first registered in the uk, what does it count as? Insurance wise this may have an impact. Also when looking around i have been looking for Sub 20k mile cars, usually 1 to 2 year old. But if it was older and still low mileage is that not a good thing then. I know a car sitting around is not great, but is there a benefit, e.g. petrol vs diesel, to sitting around? and is it better to have sat around idle, or is it worth taking a risk on higher mileage, with abit more wear and tear on components? as many have alluded to, it may not be as good as it initially seemed to me, but this advise is helping me shape my idea of what to look for in the 'right' car. Thanks

Hi guys, My girlfriend is looking at buying a new car, something, ocatvia/superb/mondeo size, due to big boot space, which is essential. I have found a superb (i believe MK 2), but the price seems too good to be true, is that just me or is it too good to be true? For a 2015 (65) registered Dec 2015, 100 miles on clock (pretty much brand new), £13,995, is that a fair price or ridiculously cheap? links for the car: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201602050755407?radius=1500&transmission=automatic&searchcontext=default&fuel-type=petrol&model=superb&postcode=AL8%207EN&maximum-badge-engine-size=2.0&page=2&search-target=usedcars&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&make=skoda&sort=default&logcode=p http://www.coopersplacecars.com/skoda-superb-2.0-tsi-dsg-elegance-8b006729f30f4f39a016a5a3011c6039 It is detailed as an Elegance, but other searches produce 'Se tsi', could someone tell me if they are different, and if so which is this one? also what extras does it have over what would be standard, for the trim level? i have seen another, older and many more miles, for alittle cheaper http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201602291498608?model=superb&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&fuel-type=petrol&transmission=automatic&make=skoda&sort=default&radius=1500&searchcontext=default&page=1&postcode=AL8%207EN&maximum-badge-engine-size=2.0&search-target=usedcars&logcode=p so maybe the price is about right? Many Thanks

picture of the bulge, and i will get a pic of the new wheels on the vrs, when its light again.

Turns out one of the alloys had a crack, so i was faced with a decision to get a replacement alloy for £180 or get a new set for ~£400, so I have decided to go for the new set and keep the other spares possibly for a full size spare wheel. if anyone was wondering, I went for these as they are relatively cheap and assumable fit my tyres http://www.rtecshop.com/shop/?dispatch=index.packages&find=wheels_tyres&make=178&chassis=2515&rim=17&wheel=Y770J-PYBA0140%2B

I havent checked, but the pressure light came on the dash, but didnt think much of it and reset it. then woke up this morning and one of the tyres was flat as a pancake, so got it pumped up to the right pressure, on the way back from work this morning the light has come on again, possibly for the other side...

Thanks for the advice guys! One of the fronts had damage to the inner side wall, which was the worst the mechanic had seen... he said i was lucky not to have had a blow out... (i will upload a photo if he sends me it, i saw it on his phone). Also my new front tyres have rectified the problem which i am pleased with, however they look alittle flat, is that just due to new tyres or could it be possible that there is a crack of the alloy, if so how would I tell, and i assume the mechanic would have picked up on this f this is the case? Thanks Max.

Hi, sorry if this have already been posted. I have a very bad problem (which seems to be getting worse), which causes the car to feel like i am constantly running oiver ribs in the road or rumble strips. It get worse with speed, initially only started to notice it at 50+mph but today have started to notice it from 30+mph. It gets louder and frequency (of bumps/vibrations) increase with speed. I believe these symptoms have only started to occur since i hit a rather large pothole at high speed (50+mph), and get worse possibly with the speed bumps i have to go over daily, due to the road down my street. Firstly I assumed it was my tire pressure, so I have put them all to specification pressure and the problem still persists. Also Today my steering wheel started to servely wiggle and steer towards the left had curb (more so than it should), so now I assumed it was something to do with suspension or tracking, Hoping it has not got anything to do with transmission, as this could be very costly! Please post what you would think the problem is! And appoximate Costs I will be seeking to claim back from local coucil/highway due to pothole and speed bumps. Thanks in advance

My dream car, but surely too good to be true? http://www.gumtree.com/p/nissan/nissan-skyline-gtr-sports-2015-/1126157225

Interesting, i am almost up to my 40k service, i know my brakes need replacing, so i'm tossing up in my head do i buy the stock brakes or 'upgrade' them, and if i upgrade then will it count as a 'modification' and i will have to declare this to my insurance company? Also on the upgrade, how much would cost extra above the cost of replacement pads?

I do not know for sure what the cause is, but my un-mechanical brain tells me that since the engine is switched off it cannot be the spark plugs (e.g. a misfire or alike). I do not think it is the power steering (but i geuss i t could be?). The car has 38k miles. spark plugs were changed when the dealers ask for a recall to 'upgrade' them, then i think they have been replaced at last service ~3 months ago? and i have sneaky suspicion that the wrong type of plugs were replaced, i dont know for sure. what dsg, the update on the ECU? i have had an update i am not sure if this is what you are alluding to? There is no issue where steering its when i am at a stand still (sorry for not making this clearer), i just thought it could possibly be the powersteering as it makes a rumbling/growning/whizz noise which you sometimes get when still and the power steering is assisting but its not the same noise. Today when i noticed the noise again, i was stopped and turned the engine off, it still remained doing the noise, then i turned the lights off and it went away, then i turned them back on and it came back, all while engine was off but the electrics were on. e.g. radio and lights on. I will have to try other lights, that a good suggestion! I usually drive around with drl and headlights on.

I have a 11' vrs which i have had from new. I have had a few problems in the past but not too serious. Now i have an intermittent problem with a whizz or buzzing for half a second or so, then it goes and then comes back in 10-20s time. I hear it mostly (exclusively?) when stopped, such as traffic lights. at first i thought it could possibly be something to do with the power steering, but the noise is not similar. then i thought it could have been to do with the spark plugs as i have had these replaced before, as this was a previous problem. Then now i have noticed i can turn the engine off and it still occurs, which leads me to think its electrical. I can turn the key (before the engine ticks over) so the radio and lights come on and it *sometimes* causes the problem. The most recent investigation points to the lights being on causing the noise? could this be the alternator or am i being silly? Has anyone else experienced this issue or got any suggestion to what it could be and whether i should start to panic how serious it is... I will try and film it the next time it happens and upload it so you can all hear it... Thank in advance

yeah tell me about it...! i was advised by my parents (being 19 at the time) and they said it was a good deal!? only after did i know how little they did in services and the cost of tyres and brakes... i geuss we live by our mistakes... dont forgoet it was 1075 for 3 years service, (2nd year is more expensive for some reason, but they charge double and im sure its not worth double!) £129 1st and 3rd years and £267.7 2nd year, and front brake pads charged at £219 and 4 new tyres @ £109 ea, (£435.98) so it doesnt really save any/much money, thus i had REALLY BAD ADVICE but hey ho, they are your parents and what can you do!