safari hunter

https://aachener-kolloquium.de/images/tagungsunterlagen/2011_20._ACK/A1.1_Wurms_Audi.pdf

Update 35 K km from repair and near 200K km of use in near 10 yrs. Everything is great, with no, none, zero - oil consumption whatsoever.

Not a difficult operation to perform, however I went to a Skoda workshop to change them due to warranty requirements.

4700 K as OEM

If it is not very late to make a choice you can consider Philips Vision. Pictures with my dash cam.

Define hard. Comparing to Superb II a new generation of Ford Mondeo, Toyota Avensis and LC V8, BMW 730, so on require a significant less force to depress clutch. Actually there is little control on clutch movement and all vehicles mentioned above (diesel engine) engage at the very end of pedal travel. Weird and hard to control it if not used to operate it gently. According to mileage mentioned nothing should be replaced at this stage. I changed clutch assembly to my Superb at 165K km only because I had to rebuild the engine due to excessive oil consumption and I used the opportunity. Otherwise it shifts very well and fully engage transmission as it did from 7 km 10 years ago.

Unfortunately high quality DAB broadcast requires higher frequencies for better bit rate however this good features are limited to line-of-sight propagation (LOS) and some limited ground reflection. Good new are coming from 2020 when DAB coverage will increase over W+C EU. I use online radio apps (Tune In, World FM) connected through BT.

Why Ravenol and why 0W40? Why not willing to respect the manufacturer recommendation ? 5W30 Oil temperature should be first reading as importance to use high revs and properly lubricate turbo.

After 9 yrs I polished my Superb for fine scratches and because a very fine gradient of polishing liquid was used whole treatment took 6 hours just to do it right and with great care to details. This fine level of polishing allow to repeat the process for several times without whipping out the paint and protective lacquer coat.

106 was the maximum temperature ever experienced before engine rebuild due excessive oil consumption (30K km ago / 14 mo) . Now 102 is the maximum number displayed regardless inner or outer city condition of driving. I believe that 115 need some attention.

Update - now 20K km everything runs great.

Good job to replace the engine and clutch assembly, however what is "new" the engine condition? Why do you think your method might be flawless comparing with engine rebuild?

Depend of the tester ... as most of the good quality ones tell you voltage before & during engine running, with & without major consumer and the remaining capacity to crank the engine. easy to evaluate and decide

Do a battery test and decide. Mine was staring to show signs of discharge over cold nights but started quite OK in the morning. However after 5 yrs tester suggested to go for a new one. It's not a hard decision to make.

Do a VDCS test to confirm the circuits and switches. Then remove the left side plastic cover and inspect the wiring. It might look like mine stretched in with compromised isolation. Try to repair the damaged wires with good quality ones as the OEM bundle is not an reliable option due to the short length problem generated by the manufacturer.

If is not very late, go for estate, far more versatile, and reliable. For twin booth there are some issues with short length of wiring installed by factory (great savings) that fail in time as you can observe in photo attached from my car. Also very seldom I use only the small hatch as the space is quite limited.

Try to inspect the spark plugs, they will tell an accurate story about where the oil is leaking.

After many error regarding bulbs from rear part of the vehicle it escalated to failure to open the trunk in full mode. Wiring stretched and isolation compromised creating an erratic functioning of tailgate opening. Replaced faulty wires from a British donor Jaguar XF - great quality

Can you mention pistons manufacturing code? Engine looks pretty much OK and I hope after repair to be restored almost to its initial condition for your satisfaction.

Now 10.000 km oil level unchanged, maybe 1 mm on the deep stick up to 100 ml of oil, but I suspect the oil temperature in relation with volume expansion (0,0007) when making the readings. Enjoy driving and consider to change oil at every 10000 km.

Only a poor compression ratio might justify this outrageous oil consumption with no damaging effects on sparkplugs. My compression test was ranging between 10,6 - 11.00 however is pretty complicated to assume engine condition at this stage. I wonder how the car was not smoking any oil when purchasing???

I know the statement with 500 ml / 1000 km, but when my engine reached 1 litre per 1000 km my spark plugs ( brand new Irridium Denso) melted. So I don't belive that the engine reached 2300 ml / 1000 km.

You are not right. This amount of oil burned is not possible. I dont see a reason why you want to escalade an conflict telling things that are not correct.

Adrian5(5) the story with Skoda is very simple in 2 stages a) Skoda will refuse any deal and support to fix the issue. In VAG world TSi engines are cursed just for this very ineffective oil rings and chain tensioner. Too bad for their reputation that goes lower by day. b) if any Skoda workshop will do the repair to your engine there will be with 2nd generation parts that are very much the same that created in the first place the oil ring problem. There are extremely few repairs that mixed 2nd and 3rd generations parts to repair the engine. It cost so much and I dont think a second hand car deserve the effort to fix it. Mine was owned as brand new.

6000 Km and everything about the repair is great as it should be. Oil level unchanged, not even 1 mm less on the dipstick.