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Lyonzo

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    Belfast

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  • Model
    8J TT Roadster and 1U Octavia 4x4 Estate

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  1. Keep an eye on Gumtree etc. you should be able to pick up a set of 15" Golf/Octavia wheels for just as cheap (if not cheaper) as a set of steels, but would look far better! I got a set of 16" alloys for the wife's Mk6 on eBay for £40.
  2. Spoke to Skoda there. The one for my car is AK, and the previous revision was AH (which is a Bora part number too). Would I be right in thinking the AH for both the Bora and Octavia would literally be the exact same then? there wouldnt be any alterations for different models, as the part number is identical? If this is the case, then my understanding is that a 4motion prop shaft (and possibly diff) would be an option too.
  3. Also, with regards to the prop shaft, can anyone explain how ETKA works? Below are the list of prop shafts from the Octavia and 4motion Bora. 3 of the part number are common to both (AH, AF and AC), but on the Octavia list there are Octavia part numbers (1U) after these. Anyone know if the differences can be determined from this, or how I could find out? I appreciate all the input folks, I feel I'm nearly there now!
  4. Excellent news! In just the TT/S3, or is the diff in the 4motion etc all literally the same too? Do those ones you posted include the haldex, pump etc too? Still not 100% in what I'm looking at.
  5. What does a throttle body clean consist of and what are the benefits?
  6. Still trying to confirm the correct number, then need to try and work out the differences between the 4motion ones! Next question is, would the rear diff be the same?!
  7. I wonder what the differences are? Here are the links for the Golf and Octavia parts; http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/sk/OCT/2001/252/53/4443161/ http://www.vagcat.co...266/53/3482767/ There are 2 options for the Golf and maybe 7 for the Octavia, the 1J0 521 101AH and AF are the only 2 common to both, but no idea if it is for the full shaft, and what the differences are with all the others!
  8. Anyone know where I could get a copy of etka to check the prop shaft part numbers of the Octavia and Golf/Bora? I can only find a Russian version of VW online.
  9. He's offered to refund it. I doubt I'll be able to get him to pay ferry and flight cost back though.
  10. snow_muncher, with regards to this other topic of mine; http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/260252-4x4-downhill-hesitation/page__hl__+hesitation#entry3067864 do the 2 possibilites you described still apply or the scenarios would still occur with no prop shaft fitted? The reason I ask is I was accelerating down a steepish hill yesterday again and the same symptoms occured. Obviously though I'm now armed with the knowledge that the 4x4 isn't working, so do the cases you mentioned involve some sort of electronic wizardry being performed on the rear diff, which would happen regardless of there being any drive there? And if so, is this another confirmation or clue that perhaps the diff/haldex unit is at least functioning as it should?
  11. I tried to send you a PM there, but it says you can't receive any new ones?
  12. Havent spoken to the original dealer yet. I phoned my solicitor this morning for some advice so have to phone the dealer here today- not looking forward to it! The best outcome would probably be to get a contribution to the cost of repair, then just pocket it as compensation and sell the car as it is. Though depending how much (if any) money he gives, it may be worth my wile to stick a prop shaft in it and see what happens. Is the haldex unit part of the diff? Is there any way I can get a part number for the prop shaft, then compare it with part numbers of other VAG cars?
  13. Well, it turned out to be the bulbs- both of them!! I wish everything was that easy!
  14. Well, everything is in place anyway- diff, transfer box etc. With all wheels off the ground 1 rear wheel rotated freely and the other didn't move. No LSD I assume? Then with the car both switched on and then the front wheels driving, turning one rear wheel turned the other in the same direction. Apparently there was more resistance then on the male end on the diff than there was when it could move freely with the car turned off. Does that sound like the diff is ok then?!
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