izzy001

hi now it does hold the batter but before it did not. took the car to a mechanic who charged me £40 to ix it. took him 2 mins. but now my airbag light is stays on. i think its cos i took connection to the airbag off to see if it was its fault Ps- thank you for your reply

hi everyone, this is what has happened so far.. well i had i power leak for a week (the car worked fine just the battery would die over night) and tried to find out where it came from so i tried taking all the fuses of and doing that way. i took all the fuses of and put them back but fuse 43 on the box which the map is saying is the central control unit sparked. later on (and now continually) the hazard lights (and this mini hazard light located on the rev counter) keeps flashing when i turn the ignition on (but not start the car). it keeps going on with out stopping (the flashing and the noise of indicating). when i turn the car on the hazard light indicator on the dash board and the mini one on the rev counter flash for about 5-10 seconds then stops but then start flashing again but not continually. when i drive the car the hand break warning sound comes on but the hand break is not on. however it does not do this flashing if i take the fuse of - but the hazard lights (indicators) stop doing that. also for some unknown reason (to me) when i close the front passenger door the flashing happens and when i open the door it also happen (fuse 43 in) there are no side lights on the door. any ideas? please i will try anything

hi i replaced the hub and the shock absorber due to a bearing problem. i went and got the whole thing from a scrap yard and installed the thing on my car. the majority installation went on very smoothly and no major problems. however, when i started to assemble the brakes i found a problem. on the brake hub thingy there are two screws that keep it in place. the bottom place where you screw in the nut (im not sure what it is actually called) was fine but when i started to screw in the top part the 'nut' would not go in the entire way. the place where the nut goes in has been eaten away and it wont let me screw the nut in. (sorry this is not the best explanation) so i improvised and used another screw from my tool box and forced it in so it would do the job of the original (done cos i needed the car at the time) by holding the brake hub in place. but the brakes feel weir now and im not sure what to do. will that be a problem? are there any ways of fixing it so the original can go in again? what the should i do? ps am a student and thus no money to go and let the processionals do it. any help will be appreciated. the top bolt hole is corroded and/or damaged thats why i could not get the original nut fully in. the brakes do work but when i braked at 40mph the steering went a bit to the the left ( the right side has the problem). that hub was the last one there. i spent £70 for that damn thing and they dont do returns and i spent 4 hrs changing the damn thing. there has to be a way on fixing bolt hole without changing the entire thing. ps thank you for the reply i honestly appreciate it.

carp, and yes the top bolt hole is corroded and/or damaged thats why i could not get the original nut fully in. the brakes do work but when i braked at 40mph the steering went a bit to the the left ( the right side has the problem). that hub was the last one there. i spent £70 for that damn thing and they dont do returns and i spent 4 hrs changing the damn thing. there has to be a way on fixing bolt hole without changing the entire thing. ps thank you for the reply i honestly appreciate it.

hi i replaced the hub and the shock absorber due to a bearing problem. i went and got the whole thing from a scrap yard and installed the thing on my car. the majority installation went on very smoothly and no major problems. however, when i started to assemble the brakes i found a problem. on the brake hub thingy there are two screws that keep it in place. the bottom place where you screw in the nut (im not sure what it is actually called) was fine but when i started to screw in the top part the 'nut' would not go in the entire way. the place where the nut goes in has been eaten away and it wont let me screw the nut in. (sorry this is not the best explanation) so i improvised and used another screw from my tool box and forced it in so it would do the job of the original (done cos i needed the car at the time) by holding the brake hub in place. but the brakes feel weir now and im not sure what to do. will that be a problem? are there any ways of fixing it so the original can go in again? what the should i do? ps am a student and thus no money to go and let the processionals do it. any help will be appreciated.

guys i just had a look and you were right it is the right side thats gone. it moves quite a lot. so i would like to thank you all for your help it is very much appreciated.

thank you for the replies i will have a look. i thought it may be the alternator which may have become faulty. cos now my battery dies over night even though i travelled on the motorway for 2 hrs. and the noise gets loud at about 30 mph but when you get at a higher speed you can hear it that much. ps the tyres are new and just to make sure i swapped them but the noise was there still.

hi everyone, i have a fabia x reg 1.4 and have had it for 2 years now. resently it hase been making more noise than usual. the car gets very loud from about 25 to 50 mph. the noise is not affected even when i take it of gear it still is noisy. i event tuned it of doing 40 mph and the noise was still there. the noise is as if the car is doing 100 mph when it fact its doing about 40mph. could it be the alternator making this noise? or the tyres? i need to fix this cos the noise is very loud and even putting the stereo up still wont disguise it. any help would be very much appreciated and i mean any...

i did try that today went down to the to a few locksmiths and the cheapest quote i got was £45 per key. i honestly can not spare that much for a key.

the car runs for as long as you need it for. and yes i did buy it from ebay to be more exact china. i take it that was a very big mistake.

first of all thanks for the response. do you know if i would need new key chips ID48 or could i use the ones i already have?

Hi, can any one help me? i tried to program a skoda fabia 2000 key transponder with a vag-tacho 3.01 on the software it said that everything went ok but the 'immobilizer light' will not stop blinking (i even disconnected the battery as well - no effect). Whats worst it does the same with the original key as well. the car turns on and runs but the light does not stop blinking. i'm afraid it might stop running in the middle of the road. any advice is very much appreciated. P.S. the key cutters asked for £100 to fix the problem and i don't have that much to spare [/size][/size]

Hi, can any one help me? i tried to program a skoda fabia 2000 key transponder with a vag-tacho 3.01 on the software it said that everything went ok but the 'immobilizer light' will not stop blinking (i even disconnected the battery as well - no effect). Whats worst it does the same with the original key as well. the car turns on and runs but the light does not stop blinking. i'm afraid it might stop running in the middle of the road. any advice is very much appreciated. P.S. the key cutters asked for £100 to fix the problem and i don't have that much to spare [/size][/size]