mr. hedgehog

Not that its going to help those with DMFW judders but I though I'd post for reference:- Just had a good chinwag with Nick from Jabba - discussing getting the judder sorted before the hybrid, made interesting suggestion that it could be the friction plate/ springs starting to show wear as it ends up soaking up some of the vibes the DMFW would have took out. Reccomended clamping the hub and looking for any play which would explain judder. Oil may be discounted as Nick suggested the slip would happen consistently, or in other gears. If it is only the friction plate/springs then this would be cheapish on parts but expensive on hours to remedy.... I will post what I and/or my mechanic finds when hes stripped it down. __________________

Just checked - my setup is good for 420ft/lb - im running no where near that. Doesnt feel like when the DMFW went either- that was a slappy 'wobble' rather than a harsh juddering... I hate not knowing what causes stuff to go wrong - spose thats why i have beetle up on bricks in the back garden and an engine on my patio.... oh well. EDIT - not found one post on forums refering to SMFW failure.... makes me think something else fishy is going on..... its too much coincidence this started after the gearbox was out, rebuilt, and refitted.... I can floor the car in every gear without issue, but if i nurse it in 1st it hates it. If i stand on the go pedel and sidestep off the clutch it goes fine (albeit with a bit of engine mount pain if i really push it) its just when i pull away normally. The more i nurse it, the worse the judder. Just to check it wasnt the fly again I slapped it in 5th and 6th at low revs and let it have it - no judder or wobble, it will pull from 1.4k revs in 6th with no complaint. Starting to think that it could be something like oil mist from the gearbox on the fly/clutch and/or a highspot on the fly, as if i cane it, and mash the clutch up i get a perfect lift off, if i nurse it, the judder returns. i've booked it in to my mechanics (non stealer) to have a look at the clutch/fly for evidence of contamination, and also the gearbox for eveidence of leakage. I'll get him to look at the clutch bite point before doing this too. Aside this, I refuse to believe this is 'condensation' as a lot of dealers seem to suggest. Anyone got any best guesses?

never did before - its the bit between the 2 parts of the DM that goes causing the judder on them - the helix one was bought to solve this and be bombproof....

Interesting about the engine mounts and fluid in above posts (missed on 1st quick read) - will speak to my normal mechanic tomorrow rather then the stealer. When my DMFW did go after 30k it only ever 'wobbled' in 5th or 6th under heavy load, never when pulling away. The Helix one is supposed to able to cope with the most brutal treatment Question is - why intermitant? Sometimes i can pull the heavy hillstart with no probs (I live on the Malvern Hills) and other times i cant pull away from lights on the flat with out the judder. Would love to understand the mechanics of this weirdness....

I get exactly this and i have a Helix SM fly and heavy duty clutch - anyone got any other ideas? I have had gear box issues with selection / getting stuck in 1st. Bearings replaced, but now judder when pulling away, esp on hills. Gearbox done about 5 months ago and still feels a bit 'tight' but cant think that this is much to do with it.

Duel Mass fly on the way out?

Getting the same in 1st gear ever since the car went in for new bearings following a gearbox selection fault... odd. I have the helix SMFW and clutch, and I previously used to be able to pull away in 2nd with no issues. On a bad day 1st feels like the car is trying to pull away in 3rd! Like others say - its completely intermitant. I'm boooked in for a turbo at Jabba in October and am starting to worry a bit about what on earth could be going on!

well, its gone completely now ..... dip clutch, engage 1st, and off I go, no need to release clutch! car is in at skoda, gearbox is out.... awaiting verdict.

I've been having increasing problems with getting stuck in reverse! I'm having to put more and more prerssure on the gear stick to get out of reverse - weird thing is its completely intermitant! Sometimes the change is smooth as you like, other times the is a bit of humming, some vibtation feedback through the clutch pedal, and its stuck... Worse still, this is beginning to happen in 1st now too, intermitant again. Gear goes in, then hum, vibrate, and stuck.... Any ideas?

Suggestion, when I had my allard EGR bypass fitted the pipework that was blanked off below blew (it was kind of a ribbed metal tube which split), and started letting exhaust gass into the engine bay and then cab, not good. I had to get a mate to butcher it out and blank outlet off lower down; I seem to remember him saying he blanked it off by the turbo. Worth bearing in mind if looking at EGR issues.

I had an allard one - great apart from the engine management light is permanantly on, as i knew it would be. Better than oil everywhere though.

cheers, will look into quotes.

Had a bit of bad luck on Friday. Was forced off the road by some idiot caught short by oncoming traffic trying to overtake me on a country road. I tried to drop back and let him in, but he was in a crappy old 306 and would have hit me side on unless I had swerved as well. Result - very badly curbed front alloy, all around the rim and a couple of notches taken out too. Sure the tracking will be well off too so I’m booked in to have it checked tomorrow. Any recommendations for a good refurb service in Worcestershire or West Mids in general? Anyway, guess what i got for an apology when i had pulled back onto the road, a load of this: and then the ****** sign before he overtook a 4x4 on a blind bend.... Didn't manage to get his whole reg, otherwise i'd have reported the ****.

my car was mapped at JBS (sadly). I had the EGR blanked at the upper pipework (the corrigated tubey bit that comes up to the OE part), which then split a few weeks later! The whole lot is out now, and the pipework has all been rehashed. The blanking plate is now on the turbo. Pleased with the lack of stutter, and have got sed to the shut down shudder.

car is running fine. strange.

only since the EGR removal though.

Hmmmm, wondering about the other ones now - just keep coming back and back.

IS this a normal read for a car with the EGR removed? VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Chassis Type: 6Y - Skoda Fabia Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,17,19,37,44,46,56,69 Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 038 906 019 NJ Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 6412 Coding: 20102 Shop #: WSC 13765 5 Faults Found: 19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal P3102 - 35-00 - - 19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground P3101 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 19586 - EGR System Regulation Range Exceeded P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18009 - Relay for Supply Voltage Terminal 30 (J317): Implausible Signal P1601 - 35-00 - - 18097 - Powertrain Data Bus: Implausible Message from Elect. Load Controller P1689 - 35-00 - - Readiness: N/A Address 03 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Q0 907 379 AH Component: ESP 8.0 front H04 0001 Coding: 0000296 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. Address 08 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Y0 820 045 Component: Klimaanlage X0840 No fault code found. Address 09 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Q1 937 049 D Component: 0000 BN-SG. 1S34 Coding: 25770 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. Skipping Address 15-Airbags Address 17 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Y0 920 972 S Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V03 Coding: 28401 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. Address 19 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6N0 909 901 Component: 003D GATEWAY CAN 1S34 Coding: 00014 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. Address 44 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Q0 423 156 AB Component: LenkhilfeTRW V270 Coding: 10120 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. Address 46 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6Q0 959 433 E Component: 60 Komfortgerát 0002 Coding: 00018 Shop #: WSC 13765 No fault code found. End -------------------------------------------------------

I never said any of that!!! All I wanted to know was peoples views on what could have been done to the sodding fiesta. I know it was was faster. I think this thread now needs locking, burning and putting in the dirt. :smashfrea

This is getting a bit circular! The thread was only meant to be a bit of fun, a casual discussion about what someone could possibly have done to a fiesta to make go like a missile. Whoever has the best power to weight ratio and traction in whatever car will usually be the fastest in a line? I'm sure there are Fabias out there that would dominate the Honda (devonutopia?). I am surethere are other Hondas which go faster than that too. Equally, I am sure there are fiat pandas out there that can thrash skylines off the mark. There was that Nova clip on utube a while back, drag racing a skyline, now that was a good example of not taking things too seriously....

Jesus, what have I started? Something good has come of this thread. I'm getting a bigger turbo, bigger than the VT2 anyway. Then people on other forums might post threads titled: 'Just got mullered by a skoda TDi brick?!'

thinking bigger turbo, down tuned for reliability after discussing with a few people on cupranet. That way, when the car is retired from daily driver, i can have it mapped again and wound up a bit.

As a alternative to a knackered kp39 yes, not as a performance part though.

was this evfer resolved - does a PD150 turbo fit without messing around with the housing?

Anyone got any info on reliability as the warrenty is 12K or 12 months. I am wondering how reliable these units are if mapped within reccomended boundaries and looked after.