Tailhappy

Yes here's hoping! The lack of codes was a surprise but if the car thinks it's cold then things like lambda signal are ignored as it will be running rich intentionally.

Update. Fitted the new coolant sensor and new plugs. Running very smoothly now. Took it a test drive and the engine is the smoothest it's been for a few years. Must have been failing. If the fault returns I'll post here...but hopefully that's it!

Cheers Alasdair. I'm a stickler for regular filter changes and I can confirm all clean. Yes only the best plugs - Bosch are good too but NGK is off the shelf at our motor factors. And I'll definitely be running a bottle of cleaner. Poor car is not happy at all.

Ok update for anyone following. All plugs were completely fuel fouled. Black and no chance of running. Fitted 4 new NGK's and coolant sensor arriving tomorrow. Will fit and then try.

I actually changed 1 coil pack recently due to bad misfire when hot so replacement of the others is on the list for sure. Thankfully a failed coil pack gives a nice easy fault code. No HT leads but I will be checking coil pack wiring. All of it is 20 years old now so suspect anything!

Cheers for the reply. The car has just been in the garage where we rolled it after the AA tow. I charged the battery and tried this morning. Fired straight up...but heavy misfire. Guessing the plugs are well fouled. Unless anyone has any other suggestions it's going to be in this order. Fit new plugs and temperature sensor. Then if no improvement check crank sensor wiring and if OK replace crank sensor. The fact we have zero fault codes is perplexing. Usually the light comes on at the first inkling of a problem. Sometimes before it's noticed.

Bit of a sad moment.

AA found no fault codes stored so they couldn't help either. But at least we got rescued.

It won't start at all now so it's the AA needed.

Last week we got an EGR fault code and on investigation I found that the hard brake servo hose had split at the back allowing air in. I replaced the hose, cleared the code and thought all wad fixed. But it's got worse each run - jerking at light throttle when warmed up (not from cold) and at each stop it cuts out. No light on the dash. I've checked around the pipes and can't see any more splits or anything amiss. Before I book into the dealer is there anything else I can check. I did clean the throttle body (both sides) but no improvement. Cheers for any input

This is exactly my thinking - the tip of the rotor arm is several times wider than the contact in the distributor cap so it should not directly impact timing seeing that the spark is jumping anyway. But I have ordered a timing light and will see if the failing arm has any impact on timing - I will report back here my findings.

I have successfully set timing and points for a fair few years now but this question was about faulty rotor arms with rotary play on the shaft. My question was not answered on the Wikipedia link (despite reading twice) so I have ordered a Gunsons timing light and will test myself using the failing rotor arm and see what affect it has on timing.

I'm trying to work this out. As far as I knew, timing is set by the points or hall sensor making and breaking - thus static ignition timing can be done with the distributor cap removed. It can be set precisely with a bulb on the low tension side. So does rotor arm positioning on the shaft affects the timing or not? I have had some cheap rotor arms developing play on the shaft (can be turned a bit either way) and the performance seems worse. But there is no test as far as I know to check that the arm is positioned within 1 or 2 degrees of correct, yet this is set for the low tension side. I'm sure it's an easy answer but I can't find it! Cheers.

Excellent. Mine will be 20 in June. I keep it clean inside and out and it only gets the best. Got a picture to share?

Are you able to simulate the rattle with the car stationary by gently bumping with your fist? Just as I found when nearly driven mad by rattles it was something quite small that sounded like something larger. One other area, at the back of the bonnet are two solid blocks to hold the bonnet stable. Check they are not missing.

Just reviving the thread with a couple from yesterday after fitting a new wing mirror cover and gear knob top.

Sounds like a plan. But heads up, what can sound like rattling bonnet can be things in the immediate area vibrating through. Check where the air intake pipe snaps onto the slam panel plastic part - my clips wore here and I got a really bad rattling at idle and low revs. Easy to fix, hard to find.

Anyway else use a Kismet pump? So nice to use 👌 Weather getting colder so needed a couple of PSI all round

I had to order from Slovakia - around 3 years ago now so can't find details - but if you search by part number they should show up. I remember the items were only around 2 Euro and postage was something like 16 Euro 😆

Sounds a bit sad but got all the dirt out of the badge. Used a paint brush and soapy water. These badges are really good quality. I've seen much newer cars go all faded and peeling.

Well done. I had to replace those rubber buffers as the top had spread out and got flattered over time and they just screwed in again while driving. New ones really made the bonnet sit securely.

Thanks for the info. Not missing out on much then with the blanks.

Has anyone seen a Fabia with all the push buttons at the top of the console used? I'm wondering what the options are. I know: Heated seats (2 buttons) Traction control Heated rear window But that still leaves two buttons. A link or pic would be appreciated.

Took it a good drive and went better than for a long time plus no misfire so coil pack confirmed 👍

I got 'Car Scanner' which works - and I was able to clear the fault - but it was a bit if a struggle to make it show the fault. I had to have the engine running then it showed up straight away. Thanks again.