Dread1977

Rubbish about the DPF being un-usable etc etc, the whole idea is that because the regeneration means the temp of the exhaust goes up to 700 odd degrees there is a chance if there is a lot of soot it can cause a fire (ive never actually heard of one happening at all) Ive owned my car over 4 years and had the whole DFP thing and go into limp mode, basically it will try 10 times to do it, if not it will go into limp mode and stay there until you complete the recommended drive or perform a forced regen with VCDS.. All of my problems came down to a faulty pressure sensor in the engine bay, after this was replaced a vcds check showed my ash content at 65% so would have been considered a write off pretty much, but a forced regen and careful drive got it down to 0.7% which is pretty good... this happens on and off depending on your driving and certainly for me continues to happen... ive just got used to it now and when it starts running like a dog you know its trying to perform one so i just go for a drive up and down a dual carriage way in 3rd about 50 for while until it stops!!

Just a quick question, have you actually tested this with a multimeter?.. In regard to removing the lighter socket I just cut and crushed it out as I knew I was never going to be refitting it anyway..

Yes the LED stays on, but as its such a low current it wont drain your battery at all.. and if you put the cover on the glow is hidden.. i though about occasional use of cigarette socket but that didnt out weigh using the USB to charge my phone every time im in the car, and daughters ipad etc.. much more useful..

heres the one i purchased... took less than an hour to fit, you do need to trim a small bit of the plastic from the console but nothing you cant with a decent metal file http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATERPROOF-PANEL-MOUNT-DUAL-USB-POWER-SOCKET-CHARGER-MARINE-CAR-TRUCK-12V-24V-/171555822040?hash=item27f18619d8:g:pK0AAOSw2XFUc5fy

Seriously fella, do what I did, rip out the cigarette lighter and buy one of these USB chargers from EBAY for 9 quid, use the wires from the lighter and connect them to this thing and its as stable as you like, the ****ty adapters and leads do not work well at all, i can charge 2 devices from this really well, poss one of the best cheap mods ive ever done to a car..

Think you are flogging a dead horse here, for a change not a single briskoda member is proving to be helpful even after all the claims of having done this, ive been asking forever and as far as i can tell its all hot air from people... so if you somehow manage to do it and get it all working be sure to take pictures and be the one helpful person who has managed to do it..

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Cruise_Control_Retrofitting_(1K) this should tell you if your car will have the right module or not, however you will need a VCDS scan

i would be amazed if a 2012 needs a new module, my07 didnt . I got the stalk from Eddie NL on this forum and got a mate to change it over and code it.. hour process and not that technical but you will need VCDS and some time to do it... PM eddie-NL and ask him if he has one available

I ran my ANS 810 leads into the glovebox.. got a rubber grommet from halfords to make it all tidy and just leave the USB key plugged in there

Eddie, did the loom you mention get over the problem with the Recirc?? I have an 07 with 2 motors not one and apparently this was an issue so I sold the one i had.. but could be tempted again if you have figured out a way to make it work

Mine came with the dust cover, seems like most of the ones ive seen on ebay just now have them.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171555822040?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Works a treat, you do have to file a little off the original hole vacated by the lighter socket however its not an issue with a dremel and a nit of patience possibly one of the best mods ive done, shuts my daughter up too when her ipad is about to die on long car trips!!!

Heres my one i did for the same reasons as you!! and its been brilliant.. the blue light stays on all the time but as its such a low voltage LED it makes no odds... just cover it with the dust cover and you dont see the glow.. An hour to do the work, £8 for the usb off ebay

sometimes holding the eject button down for a prolonged period will get it out... but there is a chance you will need to put something thin in to lever it up a tad.. shine a torch in and see whats happening when you try to eject

Doesn't work out too cheap when you factor in the costs of head unit, Bluetooth module, fitting of said Bluetooth module and poss new can gateway due to potential battery drain issue.. Also most of these after market units now integrate with the CAN gateway giving you maxidot function, Bluetooth, rear parking, climate display, OBD diags, etc etc... all for a fraction of the price... ive had my ANS810 fitted for over 2 years now and whilst not always perfect (WINCE based) its more than enough and has all i need, and cost me less than half the cost of a Skoda unit... NO brainer really...

ANS or DNS810 from iceboxauto, ive run the ANS810 for 2 years and its still great value for money...

I second that motion... ive been waiting for someone to post a decent enough guide for me to follow on this.. Anyone located near kent that has done this and would like to earn beer tokens??

Nope, apparently you can get the actuator separate, darkside developments are the ones to visit so im informed..

not sure if its the same on your model but on my 2007 vrs you reset the service indicator using the clock adjust button actually on the dials (little stick thing that pokes through) Process was something like press it in and hold, then turn it to the right then turn ignition on and hold it... this video is a better idea of how to do it

Christ you all use terrible English.. spell check anyone!!!

have a read of post 13 here, wasnt the one i read but says the same thing... you need to go for a drive!! http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/286104-ive-replaced-my-dpf-differential-pressure-sensor-but/

You def seemed to have missed out on the part where you go for a drive once you have adapted the new sensor... i had to go up and down a bit of dual carriage way for ages as the soot level went down watched live on a laptop by my mate in the passenger seat.. once it dropped below %20 full power came back but i carried on until it was 1% or something silly... never had an issue since and that was over 2 years ago... the drive part is def something you needed to do... im sure i found it on this site telling me to do it...