Camble

Hi guys, Sorry about the absence, been mental busy with a young baby, 2 house sales, business etc! So I filled it up to Max again around 5-6 weeks ago, maybe less, have done I'd say around 1k miles and the oil light came on again over the weekend. Checked it, it was just above Min, so I've put another ~300ml (rest of the bottle) in today, and it's come on again this evening. A local Skoda specialist is going to do a service on it for me (it's due around August) with genuine parts and oil, check for any obvious signs of leaks, and we'll see how it goes. He said if we start stripping the engine it's going to cost around £2k which I'm definitely not doing :(

It's on 92k now, it was serviced around 88k. I'm happy to do the oil and filter on it. It had the cambelt done around 78k miles.

Hi guys, I've had my Octavia VRS for about 2.5 years now. Since around it was serviced in 2020 (July) it seems to be going through a lot of oil, but we also bought a caravan around the same time and towed it 3 times. I have topped up between 2 and 3 litres in the last 5k miles (if not less). Due to COVID it hasn't done much mileage but it's still gone through a lot. I had no issues prior that I was aware of. There are never oil spots on the drive and when I inspect using a torch I can't see any evidence of oil on the undertray or around engine. Oil seems to run at around 100deg. One thing I have noticed, which may be normal, is if I were to drive and then take the oil cap off there is a lot of vapour coming out. Not sure if that's normal or not, I've never noticed it on any other cars I've had (petrol or diesel). Any ideas guys?

Cheers mate.

Cheers mate. So ideally I want it to come up again so I can get it done under warranty.

In the manual I can see two power fuses, a 12v and a 230v. Surely it's the single 12v fuse (#40) for both as there is no second 12v fuse in the diagram?

Hi guys, Collected an Octavia VRS last week and the front 12v socket isn't working. I've checked the fuse in the glove compartment (#40) and it was fine, and the back 12v socket is working perfectly. They must be on the same feed because when I removed the fuse the rear 12v stopped working, but when I put it back in it worked fine again. Any ideas? Kind regards Liam

I bought an Octavia VRS DSG last week and when the Skoda dealer sent me the video of the car doing a walk around this error was up. He said "one of the tech lads thinks it's a faulty sensor" and when I arrived to collect the car the fault had gone. I'm certain they haven't replaced the assembly sand just a sensor, so do you think this is likely to be a sufficient fix or reckon it will come back?

Right it continued to idle high so I took the throttle pedal back off, took the sensor off and realised that it depends on where you put the screws back in so moved the plate and it idles normally now. Fingers crossed it's sorted.

Hi guys, Not been on here for a while. When I first bought my VRS a few years ago it was idling incorrectly incorrectly and would go back to normal if I lifted the accelerator pedal, so I had the sensor changed and it fixed it. For about a year now it's been doing the same again but as I work from home and don't use the car too much I never had it sorted again. I am going to be selling the car soon as I have a new car ordered so sorting this out before any potential buyers come to view the car. I found a few threads saying that some had taken their sensors out and cleaned which sorted it, so today I have taken the sensor out to clean but it is absolutely spotless, so gave it a clean anyway and put it back in. Since I've put it back in the idle is mega high (around 1500rpm), no matter whether I lift the pedal with my foot or restart the car it continues to idle at the same. Is there a way to reset the idle at all? I've read a thread about resetting the ECU so I've disconnected my battery and will reconnect it in an hour. Any ideas or comments? Kind regards Liam

Everything is as standard mate. It's the SE VRS (07) just in case that somehow sheds some light haha.Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

When I say it's going in both directions I mean I think the minutes is going forward but sometimes it appears like it's gone back because the minutes have gone past the hour but the hour hasn't increased by one. It's very bizarre.Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

Hi guys, For some strange reason the time keeps changing on my clock on the dash. It's done it for a while, a few minutes out either way here and there. Today I noticed as I was driving it did it - it just started climbing through the numbers and ended about 30 mins out. Any ideas? The battery is relatively new, good quality and never hesitates so I can't see it being that. Cheers Liam Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

Do you have the boot plastics? As in the lower part where the mechanism sits and the part that attaches to the tailgait? If so, providing they're free mint, how much are you after delivered?

Will they fit on the Mk1 Fabia VRS or do the tyres need to be 40 height? Edit: damn.

I had the standard replacement fitted and 6 months later it had gone again. I do live in an area where it's Speed Bump City though but I do take my time. I replaced both sides with Cupra ones and they're much firmer. At the same time I replaced the droplinks with some cheap ones and I've got a very loud creak now so I think they're not very good so might replace them. I have the tool you'll need to press the new bushes into the console if you want to borrow it. Send me a PM if so.

Just to let you guys know that I got a tool made and fitted the bushes with ease using the tool. I got them to make me two discs, one larger one which fits over the end and a smaller "top-hat" one with an extended disc so it pushes the new bush in without damaging the edge. If anybody needs the tools, PM me and we'll sort something out.

Sometime in the week I'll take a look at the droplinks and ballpoints to see if there's any play. After changing the console bushes, the difference is unbelievable. The old bushes were absolutely shot so on the motorway the steering wheel wobbled, however now it's perfect!

How would you know whether this was the issue? Excessive play?

Hi guys, For a while now I've had an annoying rattling/knocking noise when I go over certain road surfaces or over speed bumps. I've just replaced the console bushes (which was a pain in the arse) but the noise is still there. Whilst doing the bushes I took a look at the other suspension bushes etc and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. Any ideas? It's driving me insane! Cheers Liam

Tried to change the console bushes on my car and became very stuck. I just can't get the console back in properly or the wishbone.

Well, that didn't go to plan. Tried to use a vice and a brake calliper rewind tool disc to press the new bush in but it broke the vice. So it looks like I'll be frantically searching for a place where they can fabricate some metal discs for me!

I'm going to do this tomorrow to replace the console bushes as they're knackered. I noticed that @Jimmy P has removed the console and wishbone as a complete unit. Is this easy to do? Is it just a case of removing the bolt that connects the wishbone to the hub and the vertical bolts that connect the console to the subframe? Is there anything that would get in the way? I have access to a vice so if I can take it to the vice I think it would be much easier.

I desperately need a good garage or somebody to replace both console bushes on my Fabia VRS. Can anybody recommend any garages in the Cheshire area that'll change both console bushes on my suspension that won't charge an absolute fortune? I need to book it in urgently! Cheers Liam

I followed this tutorial yesterday. The only slight criticism I would have is that I think the bolt to the rear of the EGR valve could be explained a little better, but without the guide I would have been utterly clueless so thank you. My EGR valve was almost completely blocked. The actual valve couldn't move as there was over 1/2 inch thick buildup of moist carbon on either side, so it took a lot of prising out and cleaning to get it functioning again. I started the car this morning and it struggled to start for a second as some of the carbon had falled into down the hole to the exhaust. When it kicked in there was a huge amount of smoke from the exhaust and a couple of revs later and it was idling much better than before. I'm convinced that it seems to be slightly better in terms of response when I press the accelerator, although it could just be in my head. Thanks again!