sabredylan

Sorry not been on the site for a long time. I couldn't believe this thread was still alive. For anyone wishing to stiffen/strengthen chassis for improved handling, take a look at Ultra Racing products. Their stuff is available through ebay at a reasonable price and shipping. Follow the below link to have a look at the products available. Golf 4 for Octi Mk 1 and Golf 5 for Octi Mk 2. http://www.ultraracing.com.my/template.asp?menuid=56

Turbo should reach full boost by 4200. It might be a little earlier with the Tial housing though.

Turbine outlet is 3", the turbine wheel is 60mm

Built bottom end with pauters and pistons. Built head with the usual supertech valves etc, but kept the cams standard. All vac cr*p removed sai, evap etc. 3" straight through exhaust and decat by Blueflame. Going with a 630cc mafless file from Eurodyne Tapp. I'll be happy with 380bhp at the wheels, being optimistic.

Upgrade time again!!!! Just received some pics of the manifold I'm having fabricated so I thought I'd share them with you. New turbo is a GT3076r with .63 Tial Vband turbine housing.

VWvortex Forums: Scat rods - anyone used em on 1.8T? I liked the term "made in china cr^p"

Steve, unless you've already purchased the rods, I'd go with riffle drilled pauters. Scats and other H beam rods have no provision for oiling the small end bearings, resulting in wrist pin rattle off load. They just rely on oil splash. I had some fitted to mine initially and it knocked badly at idle. I swapped to pauter drilled and it was silk. The pauter drilled are very similar to oem, but mega strong. OEM rods oil the wrist pins for a reason, to prevent rattle.

Steve, Have a look at AEM stuff. As my Gran would say "You buy cheap, you buy twice!" lol:D

If you need any bigger injectors, I've got some 550cc Genesis I'll part with. These are one of the best injectors on the market oem spray pattern. Good for idle, pull less timing and better EGT's. Let me know if you ar interested

Check all hoses for rips, especially under the intake manifold. Try some injector cleaner in your tank. Unplug the maf sensor, if it idles better thats knackered. If it makes no difference give it a clean. Clean the Maf and intake air temp sensor with electical cleaner. Change your water temp sensor if you notice any fluctuation on the temp gauge, they are not expensive. Most important check your timing belt tension, it may be ready for a new one. If the tensioner on the belt is on its way out it will have a dodgy idle, hesitate, be down on power and may lead to big bucks if it fails.

I wouldn't big turbo any front wheel drive Octy again. I've considered buying a 4x4 Octy so many times its un true. The idea of big power is very attractive, but you'll never have a minutes peace. There is always something breaking like Des says and I think Eddie's had slightly more than a hose pop off. If you are detemined to do it, go to a good tuner and drive their demo car. Don't forget that APR have right hand drive kits available now to fit yourself. Probably one of the most reliable and well researched kits out there. Also remember the running costs, more oil changes and my car will average 6 mpg when giving it the beans.

It was $35 dollars including postage to the UK. I got the universal tester, with a tyre valve, as I dont have a compressor.

Speak to James / Kev at JBS Autodesigns, they will be able to help with fine detail especially if you buy the software from them.

My Octy Vrs has been runing bad for a while now, boost issues and idle dropping out etc. I suspected I had a air leak somewhere but after checking absolutely everything, I was stumped. I finally found this brilliant bit of kit from Boostpro.net : Specializing in performance, costing approximately £15 posted from the states. All you do is remove your MAF and place the tester in the tip and tighten the clip back up. Pressure the intake to about 7 - 10 psi and presto all leaks can be heard. I found the orange plastic dip stick tube to be leaking at the base (vac leak), the oil filler cap leaking (vac leak) and the threads of the side input port of my Forge DV leaking(boost/vac leak). I would never have found any of these without it. Result....... Car running great again now the leaks are fixed. For the price, its worth having in your tool box. Can be ordered with tyre valve or air hose connector.

No it was doing it before. I fitted the bushes thinking it would cure it, but its not. I thought there might be a few people on here who had come across the problem. I've searched on the subject but can't find any answers.

I'm the same, new poly control arm bushes. Is the steering on the Octy speed sensitive? I'm just wondering if there could be a problem with the pump over boosting.

When driving at slower speeds or cruising on the motorway, the steering feels nicely weighted and all is good. If I put my foot down the steering goes very light and will stay light afterwards for a while and then gradually weights back up. Driving at high speed and the car feels very twitchy and it needs constant correction on the steering to keep the car straight. Its very sensitive to steering inputs. I've had it the tracking done, checked the bushes and all appear ok. Any advice on how to sort it would be welcomed.

Sorry mate. The site claims it is the real deal and at 3600 euros it should be. Good luck with the project anyway

Is this what you mean? SKODA TUNING SHOP for Octavia, Octavia II, Fabia, Roomster, Superb, Felicia : Skoda Tuning = superskoda.com

Did notice any change when driving eg front of car planted more at high speed? Looks good mate:thumbup:

I think both JBSand Badger are selling them for around £500 and they'll be putting a profit margin on. They retail at $700, so if you buy direct and sort the import tax (if you know what I mean) you could get hold of one for about £400 or just over. I'm not saying the ABD isn't a good inlet, I'm saying you can get better flowing inlets. I think ABD claim 12 bhp for a small port, and monster claim 25 bhp for the same.

They are not the best flowing manifold. Ross Machine inlet or Monster 007 are the best. Ross are available from JBS and Monster available from Badger 5. Both are available in small port and large port. For ultimate, a large port 007 combined with a R32 throttle body and port match your head will give you about 40 bhp extra plus lb/ft. You might run out of injector though, with additional air flow. A small port 007 and standard throttle body will give about 20-25 bhp, with gains across the rev range. You can find more info on EliteDubs.Com - Index on Audi, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen Tuning Support Forum.. There's a comparison of all inlets including the ABD.

What flywheel are you changing to mate? Are they swapping the turbo as well?

Eddie, speak to Big Boys Toys. They had one fitted to their racing R32 and the car did very well. What is it you are hoping to improve by fitting the diff? If its front end grip on the bends, then there is other things you can do to improve the handling. James won't be relieving you of the contents of your wallet also.

You would have to turn the esp off to get it to work properly. The diff has to sense slip to move the power. If your haldex senses slip it moves power to the rear and away from the front, so whats the point in having one. I think the diff is aimed more towards fwd six speed, ie Fabia Vrs and Leon Cupra r.