4x4 1.8t Octy

checked the coding on channel 19 ( gateway) and it's the same with both boxes in, don't know if it's changed as i have no previous scans to check against

had problems with my ccm since i got the car (octavia mk1 4x4 estate), got a replacement from the dealer i bought it from but i seemed to fix it by sorting some wiring in the boot while waiting for the replacement to turn up. last october it started playing up again so i took the fuse out, now the weather is better, i've decided to have another look at getting it sorted as i'm selling the car. With the original ccm in nothing works ( central locking, windows, interior lights, etc), and the box just clicks like mad. With the replacement ccm evrything works fine except the remote central locking ( central locking with the key in the door works fine) also with the replacement ccm the hazards flash after a short time of opening a door as if the alarm is going off. Been told it needs coding to the car but this has brought up more problems. No TAX on the car so can't take it to skoda to get it coded Got vagcom and finally found my lead after 2 days of searching the house The original ccm gives an intermitent communication fault if i open the CAN gateway controller, and sometimes lets me open the ccm controller but most of the time it just says no communication from controller. The replacement ccm will not allow me to open the ccm controller and gives no faults in the CAN gateway controller was going to try and recode it the replacement but as I can't open the contoller I can't get to the coding part Any help would be very much appreciated My knowledge of vagcom is very limited, to the point where i just wing it at the min, learning as i go

Hi all, I don't suppose anyone could shed some light on how to code a ccm box the the car? I know i need vagcom/vcds, just don't know what i'm supposed to do with it I also have a mate with Launch who says he should be able to do it but again doesn't know what he's doing need it sorting so i can sell the car as people don't want it with faults If anyone is local with vagcom/vcds who could come and do it for me it would be much appreciated been quoted £40 for Skoda to do it but the octy is on a SORN due to me buying another car so can't get it to the garage for them to code it. Thanks in advance for any help

Thanks ST, went through all that last year when i first had the problems, was scaned with vag com which came up with an intermitent communication fault with the ccm box ( and loads of other stuff but they're not related) the ccm black box in the dash still clicks and plays up even with the drivers door loom unplugged inside the car, I unplugged them all today and it still does it. to me that rules out any dodgey wiring in the door looms and points more to the box it's self ( I may be wrong) if the broken wires or defective part is not plugged in it shouldn't affect the rest of the system. all the locks work fine as long as i leave the fuse out, with the fuse in place the car will try to unlock itself 3 times every 30 seconds. with the fuse in the electric windows work but only move about 1mm every 30 seconds or so if i hold the button, but the remote locking doesn't work at all even with the fuse in. seems like there is a power problem with the box, when you first plug the box in or replace the fuse all the locks try to unlock once, it seems the black ccm box only gets power/supplies power for 3 short instances every 30 seconds or so. And the more i've typed and thought about it i think i may have answered my questions my self, my ccm box is dead From what i can gather from all the stuff i've read about this problem a replacement ccm box needs to be programmed to the car. I shall be calling skoda tomorrow to find out if this is true and how much they will charge for the procedure

Thought it was time for an update on the electrics, They're still not fixed. worked fine all through the summer untill it got to end of october/ start of november then all started playing up again. got fed up of it so just took the fuse out and has stayed like this since. had another look through the wiring looms in the doors and boot over the weekend but have not got any closer so solving it. If i put the fuse in the ccm box clicks in a pattern, it will click 3 times then pause for 30 seconds then click 3 times again then pause for 30 seconds again and just continues with this pattern. If I turn the ignition on while the fuse is in and leave a door open the ccm just goes nuts and clicks constantly and rapidly, if i close the door it stops clicking but open any door or switch any interior light on and it goes nuts again, turn the ignition off and its still fine, take the key out the ignition and it goes back to its pattern of 3 clicks every 30 seconds. I did finally get a replacement ccm from the dealer i bought the car from but as everything was working by this time its just been sat in the shed, swaped it for mine today and it works better than mine but not right. with the replacement ccm the central locking does not work on the fob and if i unlock the car with the key the central locking works but the indicators flash for a while when i open the doors, so i have swaped the ccm back to the original and removed the fuse. I have tried to eliminate all the door looms by disconnecting them at the multiplugs but even with the wiring disconnected the ccm still clicks in the same pattern anyone have any ideas? does the replacement ccm need coding to my car? is it likely my ccm is just dead? any help is muchly appreciated as i'm running out of ideas

I got mine re mapped at 140k nearly a year ago and now nearly on 150k and had no problems

1. Jaguar XJ6 3.6 ( before I had my liscence and was an absolute shed which cost me £50) 2. Rover 214 Si ( First car when i passed my test, Water pump and head gasket failed) 3. Peugeot 206 2.0 HDi D Turbo ( Central locking packed up and 2 people crashed into while it was parked up) 4. MG ZR 2.0 TD (Cracked engine block and front suspension collasped) 5. Peugeot 306 1.8 XS ( Engine cut out on a bend and wrote it off, been to the garage 6 times in 2 weeks with engine fault but garage said it was fine!) 6. Ford Mondeo Ghia X V6 (Blew both head gaskets) 7. Peugeot 306 1.9 TD (given to me by father in law, I had it a week then part ex'd it) 8. Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 130 Zetec-S ( Turbo blew up, fuel pump failed, 2 injectors and the DMF went too) 9. Skoda Octavia 1.8t 4x4 Estate ( couple of electrical problems and oil problem) Next will be an Audi A6 Quattro Avant, when I find the right one. Looking at my list I think I would be better of with a push bike lol

Mine does this too, had mine jacked up at the weekend to fix other problems, My mate turned up in his golf which has developed a clunk/rattle at the front so was comparing various parts of the suspension to check what has play in it, upon grabbing my front driver side wheel i found it moves alot side to side and top to bottom ( Wheel bearing?) which could cause the wheel wobble.

Mine fell apart a few weeks ago and just recently had problems with low oil pressure ( Another oil pressure problem thread) don't know if the two things are related

Decided just to change the oil in the end and the filter, Put it all back together on saturday after giving everything a good clean. Been out 5 times now and not had any rattling or flashing lights and to be honest the car is completley different, such a smooth drive now loads better than it was before. emptied my old oil out of the oil pan today to take it to the tip, has a thick sludgey layer in the bottom with lumps in it so i presume when the garage where i bought it from 6 months ago said it had just been serviced that it had not been done properly with the correct oil and filter looked quite old. Hopefully it will be ok now, just need to sort the electrics again as my convenience module has started to have fits again

wouldn't of thought a dodgey sensor would stop the oil circulating, I may be wrong though as that happens too (quite a lot )

The light was red with a beeping noise so is definately low pressure, the oil level was the first thing i checked and is/was just about at the max mark, where it has been since i bought it 6 months ago. Wasn't the VVT that was rattling it was the tappets/lifters been starved of oil, sounded like and old ford engine. I've blown a turbo on a tdci before so know the sounds and signs of that failing. turned the engine by hand today to check if the oil pump was turning which it does, and it also pushed some more oil out of the filter hole when i turned the pump so presume it is ok. the chain is still tensioned and can't see any signs of it slipping I'm getting a new filter and some oil tomorrow after work and going to put it all back together and see what happens, begining to think it may have had the wrong oil in it and not had proper oil changes (changed the oil but not the filter) If it's still got low pressure i will change the pump. I will update at the weekend when it's back together

My oil pressure light came on for a few seconds about 3 weeks ago, came on again the next two days only for a couple of seconds each time then not seen it again till sunday just gone. Stayed on this time but was already home, stopped on the drive and had a listen to the engine and all sounded fine and quite. Drove it to work on monday morning and the light came on again after about 2 miles and stayed on till i got to work another 3 miles, engine was still quiet and no change in performance, on the way home from work light was on before i got out the car park and just as i got home the engine started to sound very tappety, switched it off and left it a few mins then started again, was still tappety but quietened down after a couple of seconds. that was the last time i ran it, it's now in bits on the drive. I took the sump off expecting to find some sludge but it's spotless, shiny metal with a little bit of burnt oil at the top edge. Took the oil pick up off and that is spotless too no sludge at all, if i hold it up and look down the pipe i can see daylight coming through the gauze. The bit of the oil pump i can see through the pick up pipe hole is also spotless and shiny, the chain is still there and tensioned. Now i'm a bit stumped as to what it could be, will be checking the oil filter tomorrow when it's daylight again. Any other ideas anyone? P.S My car is a 2000 Octavia 1.8t 4x4 Estate.

two types according to my version of etka, different types of accelerator apparently 06A 133 201 CM 06A 133 201 CG can someone please check and confirm