gsp

There seem to be a few spec issues I have spotted, which makes it clear as mud to know what you get or can get. - Park assist as already mentioned is inconsistent (included or expensive cost option) - Electric drivers seat, shown as "Only in combination with Alcantara upholstery on vRS", but then there is no option circle for vRS and nothing on the online configuration tool - Intelligent light assistant with high beam control, shown as included in the list of features, but a cost option in the prices section and online configuration - No mention at all of challenge plus pack (mentioned for other countries and at the Geneva show), which incidentally would include more leather on the seats and electric drivers one.

Is this an actual order with the factory or just the dealer taking a deposit? As I thought you couldn't even order the petrol vRS yet and the ordering point for the diesel would be a couple of months after that. Wanted to check as I tried to see if I could order a vRS 245 last month and the dealer could not order, they are supposed to be getting in touch when he can (they'll forget so I fully expect to need to contact them again when it does open).

Yes I'm guessing the "challenge plus pack" is giving you back the extras you got as standard on the MY18 vRS 245 when there were 230 and 245 versions.

The left one limits the max fan speed the car can use to heat/cool, useful in the summer if don't like the fan sound being too load when the car has been in the sun. On Bolero you either see a large or small fan symbol depending on which you press.

Mine has the black pen clip and notebook holder, however, the pen holder is quite weak and I managed to snap it! Looked like I needed to take apart the glovebox door to replace it.

Make sure your ripping program generates a structure that looks like: <Artist> -> <Album> -> 01- Track1 name.mp3 02 - Track2 name.mp3 Or <Artist_Album> -> 01- Track1 name.mp3 02 - Track2 name.mp3 Where <...> are folders. Most CD ripping programs allow you to specify. Windows media player certainly does. Then that structure can simply be copied to the SD card.

The Skoda ones on the rear side windows are quite good, and look good from the outside. Just looks like rear tinted windows. They don't roll up, but can be easily un-clipped and the window can be opened with them in place. Don't have the Skoda rear blind, so not sure about that.

Was it below 4 degrees outside? If so Aircon turns off (although I think the light on the button will still be on). Were you on auto recirculation? As that will close off fresh air if pollutants are detected or you go into reverse, when this happens your windows start to mist up on a damp day. So without aircon active, turning the temp down will encourage the warm moist air to cool and condense.

I thought front facing light sensor was only ever built in with the rain sensor, so you would have to flick the switch to get it to dim which is essentially the same as moving the lever on a manual mirror? They work by evaluating the difference between the front and rear facing light sensors. The benefit of the auto is that it doesn't dim when there are no bright lights behind, but still a dark road ahead.

Yes the rain/light sensor has a cut-out in the very dark tint that exists where the rear view miror fixes. This is why the Auto-dim/auto wipers/auto-lights normally come together as a single option on the car and have some linkage such as lights staying on when it is raining. On my last non VAG car although the light sensor was on the back of the actual mirror housing so was independent of other stuff.

Not had this on a Skoda, but on my last car when the coolant Electro mechanical valve between the engine and the radiator failed. Its failure state is often fully open (I guess for safety to prevent overheating), so the engine over cools. Older cars this was purely mechanical, but newer cars it is electronically controlled to keep a very stable temp. Suspect this is your issue as shouldn't normally get this behaviour.

I suspect the Bolero may have a 2nd tuner that does some background stuff as I have noticed that I do sometimes get commercial traffic bulletins when the radio has been set to a BBC national. Most RDS systems will only switch to a traffic report on a local BBC station that is on a nearby transmitter also carrying the national one you are listening to. This implies it is doing some scanning around which it can't do on the tuner you are listening to the station on. It also seems to keep the full station list (not the pre-sets) up to date with those currently available, again probably with a 2nd tuner. But yes many commercial stations conveniently "forget" to cancel the traffic alert carrier, and "accidentally" give you some adverts.

Well on the BMW they were working fine after 9 years. I suspect it is probably ok if the suspension starts to sag a bit. The car bonnet may be pointing up anyway so you'd want the lights to move down. If both front and back sag the same then the delta should be 0, so again should be no issue. I think the most fancy thing about the Octavia Xenon is the waggle dance they do to check the up down and cornering motors, makes "prestige" car owners give it a second look when you start up and the headlight comes on. Non cornering Xenons just go up and down at this point.

Sensors on the suspension arms can detect whether the car has its bonnet pointing up due to a load in the back or just due to a hill. If it is due to a load then the lights are directed down more. They constantly adjust, although I don't think the Skoda ones are as good as others at this. When coming to a stop behind another car I used to see the lights micro adjusting the levels slightly, but I don't see this on the Octavia. Maybe the Octavia sensors have less resolution in their output.

Don't forget also the different classes of Xenon (just talking factory fit here), so when people say they are not better, what are they comparing with. Basic Xenon - Whiter light with more UV (good for reflective vehicles lurking!), + washers/autolevel, but cannot see any further just more consistently within the beam pattern Mid range (which I would say the current Octy II has) - As above + can swivel + electronic continental mode (no need to fiddle behind light) , so does allow you to see more when cornering Top range (Superb type) - As above + bi-Xenon so main beam uses the Xenon with the shutter up (vastly improves distance on main beam) + automatic beam spreading for wet etc High End (Audi!) - As above + automatic dipping Thy Octavia brochure when I bought mine quoted bi-Xenon which is not the case so I was a little disappointed, having had that before. Are they better? Yes IMHO Are they essential? No, but certainly help to light things up better. Are they worth it? Well if it were bi-xenon for £800 on a £20k car, maybe, basic Xenon, maybe not.

You are all obviously just as old as me (and fancied her just a little bit!), not one person said "Gina who?" :p We need a whole new topic, MDI guilty pleasures

There is also a limit to the mix that I found with MDI (will prob be the same for SD too). I have a USB hard drive on the MDI with about 30GB of music on. Have a dummy track at the root of the file system then get it to shuffle. This works fine, but will only do the first set of folders as I think it has a read limit of 1000 or 2000 tracks for the mix. As the music is arranged in folders with the band name it only mixes tracks up to around G, so GinaG in the mix but not Iron Maiden :-( You will see a similar thing with playlists. If it is longer than a certain length it briefly locks up the bolero and causes a soft reset. However, if you have less that this limit you can put all your tracks on a playlist and shuffle that.

I think this forum should be renamed garage envy. Looks like a very nice garage sparky750. Double glazing, pictures on the wall.. I have seen living rooms that aren't as good!

It has to be noted that the Octavia Xenons are not as good as a true bi-xenon (on the superb I think). I went from a BMW that had bi-xenon (with the shuttter) to an Octavia with Xenon. With dipped beam, not much difference, but the Octavia cornering function was an improvement. On main beam with the shutter flipped up the Xenons point directly ahead and light up a long way away, the secondary main beam halogens might as well have not bean there as all the light came from the Xenon. With the Octavia there is no shutter, so it relies on the secondary halogen for main beam which isn't as good and I was quite disappointed. So as suggested by another member, put some Osram night-breaker in the main beam (same wattage, but brighter light), which helped a bit. So back to the thread.. in my mind I have "gone back to halogens" for main beam and didn't like it. As others have said though depends on whether you drive on country roads a lot in the dark.

Don't think there is a requirement for main beam alignment as it is about seeing far ahead so dazzle doesn't matter. So yes dead centre spot would make sense, but I suspect that may be tricky to see as the main beam spreads a lot.

Sounds sensible, so from the DFT MOT document, based on 3m away the vertical drop down would need to be between: 0.005 x 3= 0.015m (0.5% point) and 0.02x3=0.06m (2% point) so at least 1.5cm drop, but no more than 6cm Assuming the lights are less than 85cm from the ground, which I guess they are, if not then it is 1.25% and 2.75%. Go without saying that your drive must be flat and the car unladen, and for halogen the cockpit headlight adjust to normal position.

Providing your brakes are the same as what is on a FL vRS (probably pre-FL as well) then 16" is fine, either steel or alloy. My winters are 16" Audi alloy, there is not much clearance but still ok, not tried the 16" spare but that will probably have a bit more clearance.

I suppose it is only 2cm higher, probably need to pop out the centre cap as there is that black screw down retaining thing.

Worth noting that if you have a vRS, the "full size spare" optional extra is not full size for a vRS which is 225 wide, and of course is only 16" rather than the 18" that the standard alloy is. You also cannot use a 15" on a vRS due to the brake callipers. Not tried it but I suspect the 18" standard alloy and tyre don't fit in the spare wheel area.

Somebody did post last year a link to the MOT specification for headlight beam adjust, based on the height they are and the distance from the wall you are using showing the kick-up etc. So probably buried in one of the threads somewhere. In theory it is possible to mark out the limits using this, but it is quite prone to error. Probably a dealer/MOT test station would not charge that much to adjust. Here is the link to the MOT manual, which has the text and a basic diagram for what the headlights should be adjusted to (section 25): http://www.dft.gov.u... 2012 (Web).pdf