L14MNV

Everywhere seems to have an actuator for every car except mine. Bloody diesel Vrs

Thanks for the replies and advice guys. Phoned forge this morning and they don't to do my specific actuator but the guy said that if I send mine to them to look at, they could make one or adapt one and send it back to me for free as long as I took some photos of installation for him and let him know if it works. What do you reckon?

Evening all. Having a bit of a nightmare with my 57 plate diesel VRS. On our way back on the M62 from a bloody 'in the night garden' show with the family which was horrendous enough for one day when the car suddenly lost power low down in the revs. I got caught up in a tailback which meant crawling along for a while. The car didn't want to pick up at all unless I revved past 2000rpm. If I set off as normal, it was embarrassingly slow and would crawl until the car got to circa 2000rpm and would then pick up, but still no where near what it should and used to. I've taken it to several places including local dealership who said it found 15 faults which have occurred but it won't specify the exact code for some reason. I had the guy who mapped the car and removed the DPF have a look and he couldn't find the fault code either. He said nothing is coming up on the vagcom. He had the egr removed or something? Also had the veins in the turbo cleaned too and strangely that has improved although certainly not resolved it. It just seems to pick up from 1500rpm now, but still not with the power it should be and it's still crawling until it passes 1500rpm. The guy now believes it to be the turbo actuator that's failed but no where seems to want to sell the actuator separately from the turbo, meaning ill have to folk out big money for another turbo just to get my hands on the actuator, when my turbo is fine. The same guy has been absolutely brilliant, god love him, and he's had the injectors checked which are fine and were replaced under the recall about a year back. All the other mechanical checks have been made and pipes seems fine and secure. Has anyone else experienced this debacle and how did you ultimately solve it? Thanks for reading

Thanks for replying. I forgot to come back and check if anyone had.... Yes, the yellow light is on when its auto-locked. Can I use a screwdriver to pop the switch out without moving the side panel or have I got to go in that way? Cheers

I've just noticed the small black two way button near to the hand break has stopped working. I wouldn't mind as much but the car automatically locks all the doors and boot once I travel over 5mph so if I stop to let someone in, I've got to stop the engine and take the key out the ignition so it automatically opens the locks. Do you think it might be a switch issue which can be resolved/ replaced easily? Thanks

The more I look at anthracite, black and white, the more I think I'm inclined to keep them silver. Could just be my old age.

I'm having some body work done on insurance as a bin lorry parked into the side of my car. I'm going to get my spoiler re sprayed, bonnet and alloys at the same time. However, as the car is red, do I stick to silver or does anyone have any other ideas?

Just had my vrs serviced and the mechanic said the rear tyres are wearing a lot on the insides. He said its quite common with VAGS. Is this correct and is there anything I can do to correct it? The tyres are relatively new and I could do with them not getting raped on the insides too soon!! Thanks

It's £175 for the DPF removed off the ecu only because he said I've already paid for a map and they should have removed it then. I've also got to pay 120 for the mechanical work too. Do they cut it out?

Cheers Rob. My car was recalled for Injectors. Since then, then the coil light came on, then the engine management light came on. My emmisions orange light of an exhaust had previously come on but I ignored it and it went off. It came back on again before I took it in for the recall injectors. If I kick up a fuss can't they check to see when the warning lights came on?

Yes

I've just had my injectors changed at skoda Doncaster and then my emissions light came on. An orange coil light also came and and started flashing. It went into limp mode so took it into skoda and they said it'll be £1700 to replace the DPF. I've taken it to top gear performance in Doncaster and they'll remove the DPF for £120. However I'll still need the DPF settings deleted from my map so it comes out of limp mode. Someone has quoted £175 to do this. Does this sound reasonable or is it a quick fix someone could do for cheaper in Doncaster?

Thanks I'll change the heater plugs and get it plugged in and checked for faults Thanks again

I'm occasionally having problems starting the engine. I've got the 170pd remapped 57 plate. As I say, it is occasional which is strange but basically on occasions, it just takes a good 3-4 chugs before the engine fires up. It's not the battery because i left it for two weeks sat then fired it up and it was fine. I've also noticed that whilst I've got my accelerator pressed down (not fully) the car occasionally appears to have small amounts of boost and lag like it's not getting fuel constantly. I've recently had the cam-belt/ pump changed and a full service so I'm worried it's this dreaded injector issue, so many people are experiencing. Anyone else experienced similar problems?

Mine has been the same since I bought it. I can hear the motor in the engine bay when I try to spray water onto the rear screen. However, nothing comes out. Stubax mentioned pulling the plastic part from the bottom part of the rear wiper but mine seems stuck. Do you really have to pull it hard? I just don't want to put my rear window through. I presume you pull it directly upward too? Looks like a lot of people have the same problem.