mazstar1980

No need to imply, I feel very stupid after checking this out. Thank you for pointing this out, saved me looking like an idiot at the dealership. Read the manual, for some reason I had always thought he first click is headlights and the second was fogs. Weirdly, after my battery got replaced he come home lights function ceased working even with it activated. Turns out you just switch off to 0 seconds and then switch back on after closing door and now it works. I say this in case someone googles this in the future.

As per the title of the post, I mean headlights, on normal beam. The DRL come on.

I have a 2015 Octavia RS and noticed that the main driving lights only switch on when the light switch is in Auto. If I manually switch on the headlight they do not switch on. I have checked the lights fuses and they appear fine. There is no faults showing up on MFD for lights but I have had random faults thrown up but that was down to low battery which has been since replaced. any ideas? I have OBDeleven if that helps to diagnose but don't know where to go.

Change the filter yourself, it literally takes 5 mins to do and creates almost no mess (assuming the filter is at top). Get a 32mm socket bit, mark the filter cover and metal housing to help with torque but you will know when the cover is on and to stop over-tightening. Just remember to lube the rubber gasket that comes with the filter. Done.

Plenty of vids on YT about this. I found hair dryer and floss best method and then a good solution like Tardis to remove the glue. Give it a gentle wash over and dry and it should be perfect - some find a polish necessary.

Looks like a oil filter parts from a 1.8TSI has been installed! https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2736924/

I just called Skoda parts and they don't have any record of the part numbers of my parts - supposedly my parts have the same number but different alphabet at the end. Hoping someone with 2015-2016 or mechanic can shed a light as to what these parts are and whether they're safe!

I have a 2014 MY15 Octavia RS petrol. Recently went to do interval oil change and filter change and noticed the oil filter housing completely different to photos and videos I have seen of Golf GTI. The GTI filter housing has a long plastic arm that attaches to the housing and pokes out whereas my part has same arm but different design and it does not seem to connect in anyway. I'm not sure if it's broken or by design but I didn't want to stuff things up. I had with me spare VW housing and plastic flange but they had different part numbers and looked different. Has anyone had experience of this oil filter and know if it attaches by simple torque or should it be connected and mine is broken - it looks fine and I can't see how it would connect other than torque as the arm as tab and a spring? Part is 06L 115 678 M and 06L 115 401 D (filter housing) - I hope my filter is doing its job and not being bypassed.

Sorted - just pushed hose as far as I could toward centre console through fan blades and nice smelling AC

Where exactly is the evaporator in relation to the blower is it straight under or under and into the centre console - sorry posted similar thread about location weeks ago have got 1Z but worried about damaging blower fan as it looks like it has electrics exposed

Bump

I want to clean the AC evaporator using 1Z Klima Cleaner which is a foam you spray onto evaporator. I have taken pollen filter and located the fan but seems to hard to remove the fan to get to evaporator so you should be able to fit cleaner Jose through fan blower but I don't know exactly where it is located in the MK3 Octavia. Can someone advise please? Photo shows blower - assuming evaporator is under towards centre console?

Get a OBDeleven - it costs $80 and will do traffic updates and a whole range of other mods like deactivate auto start-stop. It does most of what VCDS does at small fraction of the price. I've never seen anything about DAB in Oz tho.

Does putting the springs on stock dampers bugger them quickly or is it fine to do this? What is a good "off-the-shelf" combination of springs and dampers that ppl use or suggest?

Is it just a matter of ripping and yanking the chrome one out or is there a recommended procedure? I'm scared that it might damage the clips so the black ones can't clip in if damaged.

The only thing it does for me is disable start stop, I might be keen if I could adjust soundaktor and activate traffic updates. I suppose for the price it ain't too bad even if traffic could be switched off.

Sounds fine. New engines shouldn't be babied too much, it's bad. I would never go beyond 10k miles or 12 months before OC knowing the engines and usual driving habits but I'm sure it'll be fine.

I reckon the trickiest thing is finding a way to get car up on stands since there are only 4 Jack points designed for changing spare wheel or being hoisted on a lift. There doesn't seem to be a sure way of jacking the car and putting axle stands in a totally safe reliable way, I'm very happy to be corrected (photos would be great to show good locations) but new car makers don't want the home mechanic to do their own work. I agree that I would never service my own car especially when there is a warranty or I was intending to sell the car within 8 years of purchase. The benefit would be when the car is older (less valuable) or when you're doing more regular oil changes if you have tough driving conditions or have track days - as long as you're doing specified logbook services you can do your own intervals between then provided you don't stuff anything up.

I'm very keen to know more about OBDeleven - seems much more affordable than VCDS although checking their pro boards there are some things it cannot do like soundaktor, not sure it can activate traffic updates (AUS). Even then, I'd pay the money to disable start-stop. I'm surprised no one is talking about it on forums besides a few chattering. Wonder if it is riskier than VCDS?

Anyone?

Is there a way to get the Octavia 3 on axle stands without damaging the underbody? The way I understand is that there are only 4 safe recommended spots which are either for trolley jack or vehicle lift but jacking the car and then putting a axle stand seems bit more unsafe or complicated. The only other alternative is using ramps or jackpoint stands which is are both expensive. Can someone confirm they safely and regularly use stands and jacks together? Pictures would be great.

Just de-badged my 2014/15 RS today - left the RS emblem, looks much better and more practical as washmitt and MFs always got caught. Watched a bunch of videos, used hairdryer and tooth floss. The badges were real easy to remove, left the adhesive. Followed with liberal amount of Autosmart Tardis and MF just rub firmly and it peels off. Washed area before and after Tardis with rinse less wash and then used IPA alcohol. Inspected and needed to apply Tardis again and repeat process. Can't tell badges were there except if you spray IPA you can see the alphabets, I suspect that will wear off but I'll be polishing using light compound and polishing pad. There might be quicker ways to rmove but some of the ways like using credit card or plastic razor just seemed bigger chance to scratch the paint. If you're considering debadging, do it now than later, the longer you wait the more chance ghosting might appear

Isn't there some issue with not enough holes for the screws with the VRS?

Thought I would share the results of a weekend of detailing my RS. After washing and claying, I machine polished using Prima Amigo Glaze and then sealed with Epic (sealant) Hydro Max (spray sealant) and then lastly Prima Slick (QD for gloss). Quite pleased with final product.

Would anyone put up a video of the grill being removed?