PoloGTTDi

To prime with oil I first had to starve the engine of diesel (so it didn't start when it was cranked over), then when I had fitted the turbo I connected the oil feed pipe to it but left the oil drain pipe disconnected from the engine, then I held the turbo shaft to stop it spinning while someone else cranked the engine over until oil came out the drain pipe, signifying oil was through the turbo. All in all replacing a turbo on one of these is rather awkward mainly due to lack of space but I have the right tools for it so it's not that bad swapping a turbo and you do have a fair bit of room once the driveshaft and exhaust are out the way. The turbo only needs priming with oil when you remove and refit a new turbo as it will be dry, it doesnt need doing at any other time (like after an oil change) but if you don't prime a new turbo with oil then yes it is extremely bad on the turbo as the shaft is spinning dry which will destroy the lifespan of the turbo...im talking from experience Sorry in answer to your other two questions, the pipes aren't clear they are aluminium and I got to the shaft because the exhaust hadn't been refitted so I held it through the exhaust side of the turbo Im wondering If I should do a full guide on changing a BLT turbo seeing as I have removed and refitted mine 4 times??

I think I might stick my old induction kit back on then lol. You read my mind with the boost guage, I ordered one last night!

Hi mate, It's a Borg Warner KKK turbo, I drained the oil and used an oil treatment before hand in order to clear any ****e out of there and after fitting the new turbo fitted a new oil filter and filled with fresh oil, then it was cranked over while I held the turbo shaft still until the oil came through the outlet at the bottom of the turbo signifying oil was through to the turbo. So basically fitted as the instructions suggest. As far as a blockage inlet side, I have had the inlet manifold off and cleaned it out with carb cleaner and likewise with the IC pipes and the IC itself so im really at a loose end to be honest mate. Might be a case of saving up the hard earned and taking it into a turbo specialist eventually :wonder:

Thats the problem though, with my last turbo that was fitted for 3 or 4 weeks it started off with the quiet whine which then turned into the siren noise you are talking about. Suppose I may just be thinking the worst after what happened with the last one. I will just wait and see but it's just frustrating that I can't pin point whats causing it.

Well I've just took it for a run out for a couple of hours after re-fitting the recon turbo, no hard driving etc but its got the same symptoms as it had before it blew last time, very faint whine in first and second gear (so basically when the turbo is working harder than any other time) so I am now giving up. Im just going to run it till it blows again and then leave it to sit and rot because I cant keep sinking money into it :( As for your question, the first time i fitted it I didnt really give it a run in period, just the idling with no revving for the first few minutes after fitting it as recommended by the suppliers. I would be happy if it just lasted me another 2 years as thats when the finance is paid off

Hi mate, no its not remapped, nor even has an induction kit, completely standard. Just to let everyone know, I scanned the ECU this morning for fault codes and it only brought up one: code 17056 - Cylinder 2 glow plug circuit electrical fault. Which I'm guessing is a duff glow plug so will change that and see if the code reappears. But I can't see that having any effect on the turbo...unfortunately lol

Lol yeah I did refit it mate, checked and double checked everything before I started it up for the first time. I'll cable tie the IC pipes, scan the ecu and go from there with everything crossed Thanks for your help mate!

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No I didn't replace the feed pipe but did remove it and clean it out with carb cleaner and blew it through with an air pipe. The oil is 5w40 to vw spec so It's the right oil. I'll wait and see what the scanner picks up on if anything. Thanks for everyones advice, much appreciated

Hi from a fellow Polo owner!

I meant the thin pipes that all lead to that black box, checked all seven of them, one goes to the wastegate and one to the egr and the rest seem to lead off to the engine. Just visually checked them for leaks but havent leak tested them. As for scanning the ecu for faults I ordered a VAG fault code reader last night so when it comes I will check it before I bother to refit the turbo. Also the turbo is from Turbo Solutions, bought a brand new one from them and it came with a 12 month warranty but it has just come back repaired under the warranty due to it only lasting a few weeks. It was them that told me it had oversped and to check for leaks, basically saying if it goes again we aren't covering it

Thanks for the replies. I've put duct tape around all the joints of the IC/Turbo hoses just to ensure no air is escaping and I've checked all the small pipes that run to and from the turbo and can't see any leaks. Just to confirm my car is standard so no remap etc which is why I don't understand the overspeed plus It has an oil and filter change every 6000 miles with VW recommended oil (a bit overkill but I was trying to prevent the problem I have now). My biggest problem now though is I don't want to fit my new turbo if its only going to be destroyed by the same problem :'( Does anybody else have the buzzing black box when they turn their ignition off after driving/idling for a while? Because as that box controls all the breather pipes going to and from the turbo Im wondering if it might be causing some sort of problem?

Hey all, im new here and I own a 2005 Polo GT TDi (VRS with a VW badge) and after 82000 miles the turbo shaft snapped, I replaced the turbo with a brand new one and within a month there was play in the shaft causing it to squeel/ whine on boost so I returned it under warranty to be told that is was caused by the turbo overspeeding! I believe this can be caused by some sort of leak from any of several pipes but I don't really know where to start. The EGR valve is leaking oil from the small breather hole, I wiped it away and within 250 miles it was back again so wether this is part of the problem I don't know. The other thing is the black box above the front drivers suspension strut wuth the pipes leading to it 'buzzes' for about 8 seconds after switching ignition off...is that normal or could that also be a contributing factor? Haha sorry there is a bit of an essay there but kind of couldn't stop once I'd got going

That looks like a coolant leak mate but as for the leak from the egr valve mine is leaking as much as yours is (but I drive a Polo GT), I wiped the oil away about 250 miles ago and then it was back with a vengeance but I currently have my turbo off so I will remove the egr and give it a clean inside. Does anyone know if an EGR leaking this much oil could cause turbo overspeed?? As that was diagnosed as what destroyed my turbo.

Hey all Im Andy, 24 and a drive a 2005 Polo GT TDi that I've owned for nearly 3 years. Considering its basically a Fabia VRS underneath I couldn't think of a better place to join than here for info and spare parts as the Polo GT is a little 'rarer' than the VRS Hope im still welcome!