K100RS

Thanks Redboy will have to cough up like yourself. If the rim was not so badly roughed up where she hit the curb would have rubbed it down with wet and dry then a spray lacquer to finish it off. Really does need a lathe and tool bit to cut some off the rim edge. Dam low profile tires and Bridgestone Turan branded that came with the new car gives no protection at all. Will change next year to Michelin all seasons tires that are on my Yeti and brilliant gripping in the wet and winter. Stick to my van steel wheels with a plastic wheel cover now lasted 20 years and no dents on the steel rims as the tires stick well out.

Thanks langers2K and Routemaster146. Yes my alloy wheels are as in the photo so can only presume they are diamond cut. Don't know what the difference is once they are silver coated by the manufacture or how you can tell not ever having played around with these wheels. Had a quote from a company called BA Wheels for £192.00 for the front pair finished as original. Is this a reasonable charge as never had to send in motorbike rims or car rims before? FlyingBrick

My wifes Skoda Karoq front wheels have been damaged hitting the kerb when parking . I have contacted a local dealer who just repairs alloys and has come back to me wanting to know if they are Diamond Cut? The car is a Karoq 1.5TSI 150ps ACTSEL reg in Sept 2020 with Bridgestone Turan tyres and the spec when purchased said 19 inch Crater Allooy Wheels but I don't know about the request on diamond cutting? Does anybody know what process they had by the manufacture. Flying Brick

Hi CJJE Thanks for your help. Yes could not have used the wrong holes as the rear mud flaps have a right angle bracket on the plastic flap with a large hole that fits on underneath to the car. The plastic push on screw that's provided for underneath use just fell out as the diameter was to small. The same problem with the plastic expanding rivet on the inside of the wheel arch. Pushed right in with my finger and popped out once the flap was tapped? Once the weather warms up will jack the car up and have a closer look at the problem. I do have different diameter expanding rivets so should be able to get round it. Do need the wheels off as there is not much clearance to play around with 19 inch wheels and may have to drill out the holes. Just a pain having not met this problem with the Yeti 110. Chris

Having fitted mud flaps to my wife's Yeti 2.0 without any problems I decided to order new mud flaps for the front and rear. The front ones went on no problem then ordered recently the rear ones part No 57A 075 101 which arrived quickly. Even with the 19 inch wheels I managed to unscrew the 2 hex self tapping screws out easily with just a small movement by socket set then finish off with my fingers. No problem so I thought. The new rear mud flap fitted into place but then I found the lower self tapping screw just would not bite and screw in. Also the two plastic rivets to push into the mud flap were to small and just dropped straight out of the plastic fender. There was now way they would stay in place once the pin was pushed in and the other larger button with a knurled thread would stay in place at the bottom . One tap and it fell out. Also noticed that the actual injection moulding that had marks for circles on it had not been drilled in the middle of the circles. Looks like now I will have to take off the rear wheels to get a better look at the problem and use some larger diameter plastic rivets to hold the mud flaps in place. Has anybody else come across this problem with the Karoq? My wife purchased it in Sept from the main Norwich Dealer. Also had the rear number plate fall off as they used double sided sticky tape to put them on.

Thanks everybody for all the information on the Karoq my wife has recently received and will tell her again to read the instruction manual first! Our local Skoda dealership actually delivered the wife's car to our house and quickly went through the basics for her. For once I was impressed with the salesman there. Once the mud flaps turn up I have the fun of bolting them on as our Norfolk roads like the Yeti throw the mud up all over the sides of the car. Lets hope this does 140,000 miles as my Yeti without faults occurring. (apart from turbo clamp coming loose)

Hi Sanqhar. Drivers Yeti rubber mat was about one cm different to the fixed studs on the floor to push them down on so just drilled another hole next to the original on the rhs to align up with the two correctly. Just leaves the original hole without the push on stud. Hi Roottoot well many years ago as an engineering apprentice I was told the maximum wear on the engine is when there is no oil pressure and it needs to build up the pressure through the oil ways in the engine. So surely starting up the engine many times must produce more wear and tear on the engine, also the starter motor (if there is a normal one) will wear out the brushes and the engagement mechanics more than the engine ticking over all the time. Perhaps I am totally wrong about this but my cars are kept for anything up to 17-18 years old not exchanged every 3 years or part exchange.

HI CJJE Sounds like I can't override the lets wear the engine out and starter motor mode every time the Mrs comes to a stop at a traffic jam. Will have a look at her instruction book for the service position just to get to the wiper blades. Hope you don't have to wait to long for your car to arrive as we were told not until the New Year if we wanted every spec that the wife wanted including electric boot and heated windscreen. Found one in the UK that had heated windscreen but not an electric boot for the Mrs. At least it had the emergency spare wheel built in the boot as our Yeti 110. Very happy with it so far with better side mirrors but of course down to the usual small rear window unlike the Yeti. Now have a set of OEM Yeti roof rack bars to sell but at least the nice flexible rubber mats fit the Karoq with a little mod on one button fixing hole for the driver on the rhs.

Having had our Yeti 2.0 litre 110 diesel engine for some 10 years and no longer being able to purchase a new one we have settled for the petrol 1.5 SEL model. Having to override the auto engine stop software is driving the Mrs nuts every time she gets into the car. Is there a way to override this so called feature so you don't have to keep pressing the button every time you get into the car? Or is there a way using the VCDS system to override the auto system. Our Karoq was manufactured in Aug 2020 and need to look for the correct mud flaps for our model with internal plastic inserts around the wheel arches. Have already noticed things like the petrol cap with no seal so water fills up inside and of course wipers that cannot be reached just by pulling them up for cleaning and autumn leaves filling up in the well by the wiper blades which did not happen with the Yeti. That's progress I suppose.

I now have a little spare time to explain myself to you Tim. Having never looked under the bonnet of a Skoda Karoq 1.5 TSI SEL you cannot see a oil filter in the normal place of all the vehicles I have owned or worked on. Instead of the option of sucking out the oil via the dipstick and finding an oil filter on top of the engine block or on the side that can be accessed from the bonnet position this new engine has the oil filter right at the bottom by the sump as motorcycle oil filters are normally found on the fours including my old BMW twins. Now if you quickly lift up the bonnet and look straight down in a hurry the oil filter cannot be seen as all the pipes obscure your view. So hands up I did not know and could not see it without some hard looking plus the manual information so kindly offered by the members. I just hate the attitude that only trained technicians can service a petrol engine. A little while a go my BMW motorbike was requested to come in for a rear wheel casting that showed signs of cracks plus a free vehicle check. Told my levelling system was not working and needed to come in for a repair and would be billed by the BMW dealer. Once home checked the separate button console on the handlebar and of course it worked perfectly. They did not realise it was on a separate switch console. Some 48 years of servicing my bikes and cars and still learning all the new stuff being pumped out every year.

Kenny R Thanks for the info on battery’s Kenny very useful for future reference. will keep an eye on its voltage as it was only delivered this week to my wife. Tim1631 Hi Tim My wife has stage 4b ovarian cancer and has just broken her leg in a fall. The Skoda garage delivered her car to our house as she cannot drive it. I had not the time to lift the bonnet up and start searching for the oil filter as it was not to be seen just by looking around as she is in the middle of chemo. when I am not looking after my wife 24/7 I hope to get the chance to learn all about the engine. I was actually having a go at the car manufactures that make servicing as difficult as possible on modern engines.

Hi CJJE. Many thanks for the info and have downloaded it for future reference. I have always done my own servicing as I could write a book about some main dealers and the mistakes made and work charged but not done. I have proper vacuum equipment and HEX -V2 diagnostic equipment for the Skoda range of vehicles. From years of experience I have always changed the oil and filter after the engine has been run in to get ride of any metal particles building up in the oil. I do have many special tools and that magic word "specialist garage" does give me a smile. Have rebuilt a BMW gearbox without any problems arising so happy to argue with the dealers. The website is as always just informative and glad that it is around to help out Skoda owners. Found the new awkward oil filter position when needed in the future. Still checking the Varta battery giving only 12.4 volts instead of my usual Varta battery's that I purchase over the years showing 12.70 to 12.8 volts when new.

Hi e_Roottoot Have not tried all the regular fuels you suggest but using Sainsburys, Tesco's, Morrisons and Asda we came up with the same problem over the years but filling up with BP and Shell top end fuels have definitely stopped the dreaded fault coming up on my VCDS reader. We still have the old software installed and not had it updated by those nice VW people. Otherwise a lovely car and no breakdowns to date with just two new tie rods installed to stop the knocking over bumps.

Have just picked up my new Karoq 1.5TSI SEL and taken off the plastic shield over the main engine block and cannot see the normal oil filter housing as in my Yeti. Normally they stick out on the side or at the front? Can you tell me where the Karoq petrol engine oil filter is mounted please. Also is it ok to use a suction system when changing the oil on this modern engine as I have been using on my Vauxhall van and Yeti 110 to save on jacking it up for the sump bolt. Only have 50 miles on the clock so all the goodies under the bonnet are new to me. Varta 59 amp battery installed only shows 12.4 volts on my Fluke multimeter. Normally when I put in a new battery for my vehicles they read 12.8 volts from new? Cannot get my head around no manual handbrake either. With the Yeti and engine off I can gently take the handbrake off and let it slowly roll into my garage for maintenance but how can you do that when working on a Karoq?

Over the years our Yeti 110 diesel has been coming up with the dreaded orange heating coil icon and have kept on clearing it down over the years. Stopped the Mrs from using Supermarket diesel fuel from Sainsburys and filled her car to the top with Shell V Power. Surprisingly since we have been using the Shell fuel the EGR light and onto limp mode has not come on over 8 months of daily driving to work and back. On holiday we could not find the more expensive fuel and filled up at Tesco's and coming home surprise surprise the little light came on and then limp mode. Mrs turned off the ignition and waited a couple of minutes then turned on the ignition back on and manged to get back home ok. Once home filled the tank right up with Shell and back to a clean running engine and no problems again? Filling up with supermarket diesel fuel has convinced me there is a big difference and we manage 56mpg with Shell instead of 50mpg from the cheaper stuff. Have now knocked up 134,000 miles so it is a real effect. I am now looking at the Skoda Karoq 1.5 TSI as another car.

Hi PipH Deliberately left the original software alone and did not update to the latest EA189. Having seen so many problems with the updated software I did not want to go anywhere near the update that runs the EGR valve and the whole system into more frequent failures. They will probably see that I had cleared down the fault many times over the years with VCDS to stop paying out something like £800 for a new valve. Would be amazed if Skoda agreed to pay out anything towards the clogged up valve being a problem over the last 9 years. Engine malfunction 0010 4891-EGR valve(18) P0403 00 (101) malfunction. Comes up on the VCDS when plugged in and then cleared down.

Our Yeti 110 2 litre diesel engine has now covered 132,000 miles and the orange icon comes up on the screen putting it into limp mode for the wife coming home from work. If she stops the engine turning the ignition off and waits for a minute or two before turning it back on then it clears and she has full power back again. Previous occasions this fault has shown up as the dreaded EGR valve. Have not connected it up to a VCDS system yet as it is the famous fault on Yeti's. Would strip it down and clean out the coke myself but they have placed it in a nearly impossible place to get to without a hydraulic lift. Why if you turn off the ignition does it seem to clear the fault for a week or two before limp mode returns again. Wife is not looking forward to getting a large bill to replace this valve as I expect most garages will not strip the item down. She has been told that Skoda charge around £700 - £800 to replace it. Ouch.

Wife's Yeti 110 now comes up with the dreaded orange icon on the screen and puts the car into limp mode. Plugged in the Ross Kemp VCDS and it shows the old fault with the EGR valve that came up some 5,000 miles ago and cleared it down. Is there a way you can access the EGR valve and run it manually closed and open on the software and also can you actually switch of the limp mode so that every time the EGR valve plays up the wife will not have to crawl home from the hospital. Have taken one out of my own Combo van and cleaned it up as it was coked up badly as it is on the top at the back of the engine and put back with success but the Yeti 110 2litre diesel has been placed in a crazy place underneath to strip it down. Many thanks for any help.

Hi langers2K You are correct as they keep asking to update the memory map for the engine and every time I have told them not to do anything with updating. Just my luck to have the EGR valve in the most difficult place let alone strip it down and clean out the coke after some 131,000 miles nearly. My old Vauxhall Combo 1.7 van was accessible and stripped it completely down and scrapped out all the burnt gunk and soot and back in business again. By the sound of it the Yeti is a complete nightmare to clean out or swop for a new one. Properly have a heart attack if I contact a Skoda Dealer for the work and the way they charge up for separate nuts and washers that come normally with the whole item. Any ideas on the average price for this job?

My wife has just got back her Yeti 110 diesel front wheel drive car back from our local dealer after two new front tyres and a front end suspension drop link and the yellow glow plug icon came up on the dash and the engine went into default slow speed on the way home. Checked all the connections out when she got home and after 9 years of heavy use. Cleared down the fault and after some 25 miles it reappeared and went back into it's default speed again. I had driven it down a dual carriageway for quite a few miles and it went away thinking all was well but then she went off to work and back again came the fault. Have included the log from a VCDS reading for any help? is it the dreaded EGR valve again? f Saturday,29,February,2020,17:17:00:38822 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x86 VCDS Version: 19.6.2.0 HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4 Data version: 20190930 DS308.0 www.Ross-Tech.com VIN: TMBKC75L License Plate: Mileage: 210730km-130941mi Repair Order: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 5L-SK35 (7N0) Scan: 01 03 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 52 56 62 72 VIN: TMBKC75L6B6060019 Mileage: 210730km-130941miles 01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010 44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: Malfunction 0010 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: Malfunction 0010 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (J623-CFHA) Labels:. 03L-906-018-CFF.clb Part No SW: 03L 906 018 BP HW: 03L 906 018 BR Component: R4 2,0L EDC H23 6746 Revision: 42H23--- Serial number: Coding: 00110012042500080000 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018BP 003005 ROD: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018BP_003.rod VCID: 79AE1F24695028AF8E9-802C 2 Faults Found: 4891 - EGR Valve (N18) P0403 00 [104] - Malfunction Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Mileage: 210699 km Date: 2020.02.29 Time: 14:24:22 Engine speed: 1770.50 /min Normed load value: 42.7 % Vehicle speed: 89 km/h Coolant temperature: 74 °C Intake air temperature: 12 °C Ambient air pressure: 970 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.520 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 441.4 mg/stroke EGR Vacuum Regulator Solen.val.: activation: 100.00 % EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 85.07 % EGR valve: offset closed: 2.14 % Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 16 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 55 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 7 High press EGR actuator: actual unconditioned volt val: 1383.8 mV 4892 - EGR Valve (N18) P0403 00 [104] - Malfunction Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Mileage: 210699 km Date: 2020.02.29 Time: 14:24:21 Engine speed: 1770.00 /min Normed load value: 29.0 % Vehicle speed: 89 km/h Coolant temperature: 74 °C Intake air temperature: 12 °C Ambient air pressure: 970 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.560 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 343.2 mg/stroke EGR Vacuum Regulator Solen.val.: activation: 15.00 % EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 43.41 % EGR valve: offset closed: 2.14 % Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 55 Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 7 High press EGR actuator: actual unconditioned volt val: 2634.0 mV Readiness: 0 2 0 0 0 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels:. 1K0-907-379-MK70M.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AK HW: 1K0 907 379 AK Component: MK70 M MASR 0106 Revision: 00H35001 Coding: 0017665 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00999 VCID: 7BA2052C6FEC1ABF9C5-802E No fault code found.

Back again as I have just had fitted to my Vauxhall Combo Van the same Michelin Cross Climate tyres all round. Guess what the ones fitted also measure 7 mm across the width of the new tyres and not the 8 mm that was the standard depth of tread on the last 2 pairs of tyres fitted on the Yeti. Yeti size is 225/50 17" V Rated. Vauxhall Combo Van 175/70 14" 88T Rated. Skoda Fabia 205/45 16" 83W. So it seems on the latest Michelin batch of tyres fitted this year in Norwich all seem to be down by 1mm of tread? They all handle extremely well in wet and slippery conditions as before but just intrigued how one mm has evaporated away. Still using the same depth gauge and measuring the same as I always have since the Yeti was purchased back in 2011.

Have been very impressed with Michelin Cross Climate tyres for many years on the wife's Yeti with high mileage before having to change them. So went out and purchased four new Cross Climate tyres for my son's Fabia. Every tyre change on the Yeti started at 8 mm tread in the middle and across the tyre. Now the new ones on his Fabia only measure 7 mm of tread? Are Michelin cutting down on tread to wear them down quicker and need replacing or is this a different mix to all the others fitted on the Yeti? Anybody noticed the new tread being less than before? Using the same measuring tool so no change there.

Hi Urrell Rear tyres were ok with decent tread all round after 55,000 miles and that is why I placed them on the front with 5mm on them. It was the front ones that had worn badly on both inside edges that were thrown away for new Michelin Cross Climate tyres. Was worried about the camber on the front as the offside front suspension spring had cracked near the bottom but I was told the camber was in spec. You are correct a brass brush had been used after all the winter salt/grit by myself plus a rub down with WD40 on the rods eight weeks ago while I was checking the rubber boots on the drive shaft pre MOT checks.

Went back on Monday with photos having driven to a friend who runs his own MOT station to have a look at the supposed work done and a bill of £47.00 having looked at the photos and the price he told his charge is £25.00 unless there is an extra labour charge for time with badly corroded on nuts on the rods. Also went along to my bike club on Sunday to show a couple of chaps who race and one has a garage business and they all had a laugh at my expense. Arrived at the garage to chat with the manager who insisted that the technician employed there on Saturday had done the work required. Had sent him the photos via email on Saturday plus head office. Had not received on Saturday a tracking report which I received when Monday's work was done. Having watched the car being lifted up and the equipment set up. I was invited by the tech to look at the LCD screen whilst he put spanners to the rods and it showed the LHS was out by a fair amount and set about adjusting both sides to the correct parameters and then tighten up the nuts. Now folks if the work was done as insisted by the manager there. Surely from Saturday to Monday would not throw out the tracking would it? Getting really fed up having to check any work paid for plus my time taking a Monday off running around. Over the years I have picked up many things including leaving a timing belt cover off, air con valve covers gone astray to stop grit and dirt dropping into them and a new disc with the sticky part number label still left on the new disc from a main local approved dealer. Looks like it is back to DIY for a job done correctly! Have sent a polite letter off to head office but I doubt if any monies will come back. FlyingBrick

Just taken in the Mrs Yeti 110 for a pair of new tyres for the rear having moved the old rear ones to the front. After waiting a long time the chappy came out and told me that the tyres were badly scrubbed on the edges of the old tyres and that the tracking was out. Pointed out to him that it was equal wear to both tyres and our main dealer had not commented on the problem having had new front discs fitted and they had covered some 55,000 miles. Told well you could be wrecking your tyres leaving the problem there. Eventually buckled to his hard sell and waited around 15 min s for the job to be done. Charged £47 and told they had been adjusted. Once I was home I put on full lock and noticed a quick spray of white grease had been applied to both tracking rod threads. Being rather a negative chap I rubbed off the white grease to have a look at the rods on both sides. I cannot see any spanners applied or grit and corrosion of moving a nut around on either side. Phoned them up on the same day to complain and was told they use special tools not to damage the rods and I could bring it back for a check having taken my money. Now if the tracking is very close to spec of course they will not need to change anything and the wear on both tyres could be the actual position to vertical over the years on the ball joints and not toe in or out. As this company has other braches in East Anglia I would like any useful comments on what to do next as I suspect it will end in a stalemate with the company over work done. Can you adjust the tracking without showing any evidence? FlyingBrick