K100RS

Taken my Karoq to the local dealer in Norwich and left it with them for most of the day to check it out. on returning the service manager there informed me that this metallic rustling sound at its worst in first and second gear is within limits according to Skoda UK. Need to read the letter when I can get to my pc but they say it’s the clutch thrust bearing. Not a problem and therefore nothing to do but drive it. Well if I want to sell it then the racket coming from the clutch/ gearbox housing would put anybody off if the passengers window is down. Even my neighbour commented on the grinding sound as I drove onto my drive. This sounds crazy coming from Skoda UK. I might empty out the gearbox oil and see if anything from the drive shafts drops out like metal swarf if it is not the gearbox but the clutch. Have recorded the metallic rustling sound and the odd crunch! Bring back my Yeti any day.

When I get the time after checking the car for it’s MOT I will have a close look at the way it is attached to the rear to see if there is any movement to get the LHS of the green line parallel to the kerb. My son’s Volkswagen GT Polo has a brilliant screen and far better resolution camera than my Karoq.

Out of interest I have noticed that the rear camera fitted on my Karoq from new does not align with the kerb if you use the two green lines on the screen. It is a few degrees out and with the nasty low profile tires fitted you can easily scrape the rims with the factory fitted tires. Has anybody managed to re set the camera on the back so that it shows a true picture on the screen when parking alongside a kerb.

My Karoq 2020 model has started making a metallic rustling sound coming from the kerbside drive wheel at 14,150 miles. First of all thought it might be a loose stone chip caught in the wheel disc so have taken off the kerbside front wheel and also the caliper and pads to eliminate this but all is ok. On rotating the shaft it feels stiff in places and not smooth in neutral. Turned on the engine with the wheel jacked up and you can hear a light metallic sound coming from the output shaft/gearbox whilst in first or second gear. Put everything back and went down the road and sometimes it disappears for a while in third gear then reappears whilst driving along. If I press down the clutch pedal the rustling sound stops straight away and due to wind noise difficult to hear anything in fifth or sixth gear under power. Now it is nearly fours years old but has only covered 14,150 miles as it was my wife's car and she had been ill with cancer. I have seen photos off the drive shaft bearing breaking up and the ball race cage shattered so rather worried taking it into a Skoda dealership in Norwich if I get the bill for the repair work although it has only covered a low mileage. Anybody got some ideas on what might have gone wrong as I had a Yeti which was bullet proof and wished there was another one to replace it with.

Thanks Redboy will have to cough up like yourself. If the rim was not so badly roughed up where she hit the curb would have rubbed it down with wet and dry then a spray lacquer to finish it off. Really does need a lathe and tool bit to cut some off the rim edge. Dam low profile tires and Bridgestone Turan branded that came with the new car gives no protection at all. Will change next year to Michelin all seasons tires that are on my Yeti and brilliant gripping in the wet and winter. Stick to my van steel wheels with a plastic wheel cover now lasted 20 years and no dents on the steel rims as the tires stick well out.

Thanks langers2K and Routemaster146. Yes my alloy wheels are as in the photo so can only presume they are diamond cut. Don't know what the difference is once they are silver coated by the manufacture or how you can tell not ever having played around with these wheels. Had a quote from a company called BA Wheels for £192.00 for the front pair finished as original. Is this a reasonable charge as never had to send in motorbike rims or car rims before? FlyingBrick

My wifes Skoda Karoq front wheels have been damaged hitting the kerb when parking . I have contacted a local dealer who just repairs alloys and has come back to me wanting to know if they are Diamond Cut? The car is a Karoq 1.5TSI 150ps ACTSEL reg in Sept 2020 with Bridgestone Turan tyres and the spec when purchased said 19 inch Crater Allooy Wheels but I don't know about the request on diamond cutting? Does anybody know what process they had by the manufacture. Flying Brick

Hi CJJE Thanks for your help. Yes could not have used the wrong holes as the rear mud flaps have a right angle bracket on the plastic flap with a large hole that fits on underneath to the car. The plastic push on screw that's provided for underneath use just fell out as the diameter was to small. The same problem with the plastic expanding rivet on the inside of the wheel arch. Pushed right in with my finger and popped out once the flap was tapped? Once the weather warms up will jack the car up and have a closer look at the problem. I do have different diameter expanding rivets so should be able to get round it. Do need the wheels off as there is not much clearance to play around with 19 inch wheels and may have to drill out the holes. Just a pain having not met this problem with the Yeti 110. Chris

Having fitted mud flaps to my wife's Yeti 2.0 without any problems I decided to order new mud flaps for the front and rear. The front ones went on no problem then ordered recently the rear ones part No 57A 075 101 which arrived quickly. Even with the 19 inch wheels I managed to unscrew the 2 hex self tapping screws out easily with just a small movement by socket set then finish off with my fingers. No problem so I thought. The new rear mud flap fitted into place but then I found the lower self tapping screw just would not bite and screw in. Also the two plastic rivets to push into the mud flap were to small and just dropped straight out of the plastic fender. There was now way they would stay in place once the pin was pushed in and the other larger button with a knurled thread would stay in place at the bottom . One tap and it fell out. Also noticed that the actual injection moulding that had marks for circles on it had not been drilled in the middle of the circles. Looks like now I will have to take off the rear wheels to get a better look at the problem and use some larger diameter plastic rivets to hold the mud flaps in place. Has anybody else come across this problem with the Karoq? My wife purchased it in Sept from the main Norwich Dealer. Also had the rear number plate fall off as they used double sided sticky tape to put them on.

Thanks everybody for all the information on the Karoq my wife has recently received and will tell her again to read the instruction manual first! Our local Skoda dealership actually delivered the wife's car to our house and quickly went through the basics for her. For once I was impressed with the salesman there. Once the mud flaps turn up I have the fun of bolting them on as our Norfolk roads like the Yeti throw the mud up all over the sides of the car. Lets hope this does 140,000 miles as my Yeti without faults occurring. (apart from turbo clamp coming loose)

Hi Sanqhar. Drivers Yeti rubber mat was about one cm different to the fixed studs on the floor to push them down on so just drilled another hole next to the original on the rhs to align up with the two correctly. Just leaves the original hole without the push on stud. Hi Roottoot well many years ago as an engineering apprentice I was told the maximum wear on the engine is when there is no oil pressure and it needs to build up the pressure through the oil ways in the engine. So surely starting up the engine many times must produce more wear and tear on the engine, also the starter motor (if there is a normal one) will wear out the brushes and the engagement mechanics more than the engine ticking over all the time. Perhaps I am totally wrong about this but my cars are kept for anything up to 17-18 years old not exchanged every 3 years or part exchange.

HI CJJE Sounds like I can't override the lets wear the engine out and starter motor mode every time the Mrs comes to a stop at a traffic jam. Will have a look at her instruction book for the service position just to get to the wiper blades. Hope you don't have to wait to long for your car to arrive as we were told not until the New Year if we wanted every spec that the wife wanted including electric boot and heated windscreen. Found one in the UK that had heated windscreen but not an electric boot for the Mrs. At least it had the emergency spare wheel built in the boot as our Yeti 110. Very happy with it so far with better side mirrors but of course down to the usual small rear window unlike the Yeti. Now have a set of OEM Yeti roof rack bars to sell but at least the nice flexible rubber mats fit the Karoq with a little mod on one button fixing hole for the driver on the rhs.

Having had our Yeti 2.0 litre 110 diesel engine for some 10 years and no longer being able to purchase a new one we have settled for the petrol 1.5 SEL model. Having to override the auto engine stop software is driving the Mrs nuts every time she gets into the car. Is there a way to override this so called feature so you don't have to keep pressing the button every time you get into the car? Or is there a way using the VCDS system to override the auto system. Our Karoq was manufactured in Aug 2020 and need to look for the correct mud flaps for our model with internal plastic inserts around the wheel arches. Have already noticed things like the petrol cap with no seal so water fills up inside and of course wipers that cannot be reached just by pulling them up for cleaning and autumn leaves filling up in the well by the wiper blades which did not happen with the Yeti. That's progress I suppose.

I now have a little spare time to explain myself to you Tim. Having never looked under the bonnet of a Skoda Karoq 1.5 TSI SEL you cannot see a oil filter in the normal place of all the vehicles I have owned or worked on. Instead of the option of sucking out the oil via the dipstick and finding an oil filter on top of the engine block or on the side that can be accessed from the bonnet position this new engine has the oil filter right at the bottom by the sump as motorcycle oil filters are normally found on the fours including my old BMW twins. Now if you quickly lift up the bonnet and look straight down in a hurry the oil filter cannot be seen as all the pipes obscure your view. So hands up I did not know and could not see it without some hard looking plus the manual information so kindly offered by the members. I just hate the attitude that only trained technicians can service a petrol engine. A little while a go my BMW motorbike was requested to come in for a rear wheel casting that showed signs of cracks plus a free vehicle check. Told my levelling system was not working and needed to come in for a repair and would be billed by the BMW dealer. Once home checked the separate button console on the handlebar and of course it worked perfectly. They did not realise it was on a separate switch console. Some 48 years of servicing my bikes and cars and still learning all the new stuff being pumped out every year.

Kenny R Thanks for the info on battery’s Kenny very useful for future reference. will keep an eye on its voltage as it was only delivered this week to my wife. Tim1631 Hi Tim My wife has stage 4b ovarian cancer and has just broken her leg in a fall. The Skoda garage delivered her car to our house as she cannot drive it. I had not the time to lift the bonnet up and start searching for the oil filter as it was not to be seen just by looking around as she is in the middle of chemo. when I am not looking after my wife 24/7 I hope to get the chance to learn all about the engine. I was actually having a go at the car manufactures that make servicing as difficult as possible on modern engines.

Hi CJJE. Many thanks for the info and have downloaded it for future reference. I have always done my own servicing as I could write a book about some main dealers and the mistakes made and work charged but not done. I have proper vacuum equipment and HEX -V2 diagnostic equipment for the Skoda range of vehicles. From years of experience I have always changed the oil and filter after the engine has been run in to get ride of any metal particles building up in the oil. I do have many special tools and that magic word "specialist garage" does give me a smile. Have rebuilt a BMW gearbox without any problems arising so happy to argue with the dealers. The website is as always just informative and glad that it is around to help out Skoda owners. Found the new awkward oil filter position when needed in the future. Still checking the Varta battery giving only 12.4 volts instead of my usual Varta battery's that I purchase over the years showing 12.70 to 12.8 volts when new.

Hi e_Roottoot Have not tried all the regular fuels you suggest but using Sainsburys, Tesco's, Morrisons and Asda we came up with the same problem over the years but filling up with BP and Shell top end fuels have definitely stopped the dreaded fault coming up on my VCDS reader. We still have the old software installed and not had it updated by those nice VW people. Otherwise a lovely car and no breakdowns to date with just two new tie rods installed to stop the knocking over bumps.

Have just picked up my new Karoq 1.5TSI SEL and taken off the plastic shield over the main engine block and cannot see the normal oil filter housing as in my Yeti. Normally they stick out on the side or at the front? Can you tell me where the Karoq petrol engine oil filter is mounted please. Also is it ok to use a suction system when changing the oil on this modern engine as I have been using on my Vauxhall van and Yeti 110 to save on jacking it up for the sump bolt. Only have 50 miles on the clock so all the goodies under the bonnet are new to me. Varta 59 amp battery installed only shows 12.4 volts on my Fluke multimeter. Normally when I put in a new battery for my vehicles they read 12.8 volts from new? Cannot get my head around no manual handbrake either. With the Yeti and engine off I can gently take the handbrake off and let it slowly roll into my garage for maintenance but how can you do that when working on a Karoq?

Over the years our Yeti 110 diesel has been coming up with the dreaded orange heating coil icon and have kept on clearing it down over the years. Stopped the Mrs from using Supermarket diesel fuel from Sainsburys and filled her car to the top with Shell V Power. Surprisingly since we have been using the Shell fuel the EGR light and onto limp mode has not come on over 8 months of daily driving to work and back. On holiday we could not find the more expensive fuel and filled up at Tesco's and coming home surprise surprise the little light came on and then limp mode. Mrs turned off the ignition and waited a couple of minutes then turned on the ignition back on and manged to get back home ok. Once home filled the tank right up with Shell and back to a clean running engine and no problems again? Filling up with supermarket diesel fuel has convinced me there is a big difference and we manage 56mpg with Shell instead of 50mpg from the cheaper stuff. Have now knocked up 134,000 miles so it is a real effect. I am now looking at the Skoda Karoq 1.5 TSI as another car.

Hi PipH Deliberately left the original software alone and did not update to the latest EA189. Having seen so many problems with the updated software I did not want to go anywhere near the update that runs the EGR valve and the whole system into more frequent failures. They will probably see that I had cleared down the fault many times over the years with VCDS to stop paying out something like £800 for a new valve. Would be amazed if Skoda agreed to pay out anything towards the clogged up valve being a problem over the last 9 years. Engine malfunction 0010 4891-EGR valve(18) P0403 00 (101) malfunction. Comes up on the VCDS when plugged in and then cleared down.

Our Yeti 110 2 litre diesel engine has now covered 132,000 miles and the orange icon comes up on the screen putting it into limp mode for the wife coming home from work. If she stops the engine turning the ignition off and waits for a minute or two before turning it back on then it clears and she has full power back again. Previous occasions this fault has shown up as the dreaded EGR valve. Have not connected it up to a VCDS system yet as it is the famous fault on Yeti's. Would strip it down and clean out the coke myself but they have placed it in a nearly impossible place to get to without a hydraulic lift. Why if you turn off the ignition does it seem to clear the fault for a week or two before limp mode returns again. Wife is not looking forward to getting a large bill to replace this valve as I expect most garages will not strip the item down. She has been told that Skoda charge around £700 - £800 to replace it. Ouch.

Wife's Yeti 110 now comes up with the dreaded orange icon on the screen and puts the car into limp mode. Plugged in the Ross Kemp VCDS and it shows the old fault with the EGR valve that came up some 5,000 miles ago and cleared it down. Is there a way you can access the EGR valve and run it manually closed and open on the software and also can you actually switch of the limp mode so that every time the EGR valve plays up the wife will not have to crawl home from the hospital. Have taken one out of my own Combo van and cleaned it up as it was coked up badly as it is on the top at the back of the engine and put back with success but the Yeti 110 2litre diesel has been placed in a crazy place underneath to strip it down. Many thanks for any help.