Anddenton

Glad to be of help.

Seems to have disappeared from Auto Trader and the garages website. Wonder who bought it???

The bulb will be for the puddle light

Its not a bulb, its a sealed LED unit.

I'm in New Mills (SK22 postcode) if you're out this way at all.

Yes I think we got our Scouts at a similar time and IIRC we both suspected they were ex Skoda UK cars. I regretted getting rid of my previous Santa Fe at 99k and 4.5 year old so was determined not to make the same mistake with the Scout if it proved to be a reliable motor. My previous experience of Hyundai was good so hopefully the I800 will be a good motor and last at least 10 years. As for the VW offerings by way of an 8/9 seater they are just too much money so would of been nearly double what the Hyundai cost.

@silver1011 yep, traded it for this😁 It was a good motor for the 10 years and 155k miles I had it but if anyone sees this and wants to know all about the exaggeration (and down right lies) in that add just drop me a pm. Even with the questionable description it's still a decent car for the money, possibly needs turbo looking at and a new rear prop shaft coupling (If the garage hasn't already sorted these) even the original DMF, clutch and DPF seemed sound when sold, not bad for 185k.

Had a set of 15mm hubcentric spacers on the back of my scout for Many years with no problems whatsoever.

It's because the battery was disconnected, they should go off after driving a short distance

I believe the radio codes can be acquired quite cheaply on eBay these days.

I was originally convinced it was rear brakes as it only happened when braking (I.e. pads down to the metal) but when I went to change them they were fine. I then realised I could get the noise to stop by accelerating hard uphill and it would come back after a few stops. I then got 3 kids in the back and asked where they thought the sound came from, kid on left said it came from right, kid on right said it came from left and one in middle said it was between their legs. After a bit of crawling around under the car I eventually found the suspect part, I makes a hell of a noise for a bit of metal rubbing on a bit of tin plate. MoT place noted the noise when doing the road brake test could couldn't tell what it was so still passed the MoT.

AC rad is the front one so if AC still works then coolant rad should be ok.

I think I know what this is, sounds exactly the same as what I had on my scout. The rear prop shaft coupling is rubber to absorb vibration with a steel balancing ring around the outer circumference, the rubber perishes and allows the steel weight to move slightly front to back (the balance weight still does it's job as the fracture in the rubber is jagged so the balance ring still turns with the rubber coupling). When breaking hard the steel ring moves forward on the coupling and starts catching on a tin exhaust heat shield causing an alarming racket, if you accelerate hard the ring should slide back and stop making a noise until you next brake hard. I solved this (Read bodged) by putting a couple of steel reinforced tie wraps around the coupling/ring to stop the for/aft movement, worked for me but took a good while to work out what it was. I thought brakes at first but kids in the back said the horrible grinding noise was coming from the centre of the car around the transmission tunnel and I'm willing to put a few quid on this is the same issue.

If the noise disappears when you dip the clutch then surely it's the DMF? All the rest of the transmission keeps turning so would keep making a noise?

Bugger, I've been a freedom member for years, must have lapsed recently. If I sell anything it generally goes on eBay for simplicity, but as it goes on Friday I will only bother to strip off it what there is actually a market for, otherwise I'll just get rid of it all with the car.

So after 10 years and 154k miles under my ownership, my prefl TDI Scout is being traded in. The dealer its going to don't really care about any extras as they are just going to throw it at the auctions. So the question is whats worth stripping and selling separately? 1. I'm thinking its worth removing the RNS510 and selling this on, but what about the aux media interface (Ipod/USB)? is there still any market for these? 2. It has the raised boot floor, are enough people interested in buying these baring in mind it would be too big and heavy to ship? - To be honest if anyone local to High Peak wants to come and get this for free I'm more than happy but it'll have to be quick. 3. Its currently on its winter wheels (16" Audi alloys with 2 x decent winter tyres & 2 x knackered), do I - a) throw the standard 17" wheels in the boot and get rid of them with the car (Dealer said he is not interested in them and will take as is), or b) sell them separately (All 4 tyres at 1.5mm) or c) Swap back to standard wheels and risk the drive to the dealer and sell the 16" Audi wheels? 4. It has a pair of 15mm wheel spacers on the back but I'd guess its not worth the hassle of taking these off and trying to sell? 4. Is there anything else worth removing and selling separately? Many thanks for any input.

Should generate an under or over boost code if going to limp mode as a result.

My Scout is coming up to 12 years (08 plate) and 185k miles and still on original HID bulbs. Also all original indicators, fogs, breaks etc. Only ever changed 501's and a reverse bulb. Also original exhaust, DMF, clutch, turbo, camshaft etc. These cars are bullet proof when looked after.

My monies on EGR, but as said above you need a proper VCGS scan.

I have a Scout on winter tyres and in snow it only stops when ground clearance runs out and even then will still allow you to back out of the drift.

A rumble when the engine is labouring does tend to be flywheel related. @eldrak21 I have heard before of garages draining the rear diff then refilling the haldex not realising these two items are separate - I do hope this isn't the case though......

Has your neighbour got his seat higher than yours? There is quite a bit of vertical adjustment available I believe.

Sounds like a low battery warning, I'd start by getting that tested.

Even drops it a cog or 2 for maximum acceleration if there's a big difference between current and set speeds.

My Passat is the same, when you hit resume it uses full throttle unless I drive to with 5mph or so of the set speed. Same if the car in front pulls over (Adaptive Cruise) WOT back to set speed. I don't think there are any settings to change this behaviour.