CRASH67

New Address Gillingham Business Park, Grosvenor Rd, Gillingham ME8 0SA

I tend to prefer the newer tyres on the back. At very least nothing under 4mm ideally. Only because i got bitten by making this error early on in driving as my early logic was best tyres on driving axle in majority my cases the front... it caught me out luckily no major incident just enough to teach me a lesson.. lol

Ooo not the best advice..... have the more warn tyres can be asking for trouble. More so in wet conditions. The ideal way is new ones on the back back ones to the front.

Skoda/VW taking advantage in what way? More costly labour? Well most cost involved in a dealership operation. Cambelts have always been a funny one generaly rule if thumb seems to be year 4/5 60/70k miles maybe a bit more despite as stated above belt manufactuers claiming longer. Probley an arse covering move if one should fail earlier then stated!

Yeah mother in law has a MY20 colour editiom with this. I supsect it improves aero for 0.5% less drag or something like that.

Back again! After replacing the Monte for an octavia after 2 years.... now waiting on a Moon White Hatch Monte Carlo MY21

Fully aware of the implecations... but car is vital to be on the road so really was weighing up whats more like to bite me in the ass. As i dont really trust used warranty to cover it. Long story short. After having a good look at the tyres and ordering 4.. to try and estavblish whats causing the the issue. I move the least damaged to the front. But appear to be oringal tyres!! Treads is close but was legal... it was enough to establish the vibratuon felt through the pedal must of been the buldge as now i hard feel it. The bad news noise is still there....

Well thats what Im hoping, its simply the tyres. money is a little tight. If I can rule the noise out to be that tyre then jobs a good un... new tyre if the noise is still there back to Skoda to establish what that noise is. Thanks

Not Across the treads. Thought I noticed I have a buldge on the side wall on N/S/F, it doesn't appear to be have effected the surface that would be in contact with the road... But for the sake of ruling it out I will be moving the fronts to the rear, for this a the face the rears are getting a little old and dont seem to grip as well and causing the back to feel a little lose on greasier roads.

Done this last night... noise present in Eco mode... so speed specific. So i dont thing its box related. Had a recent MOT so i cant image any psyical signs are showing but will be putting on a rap for a nose...

So i have encoutered what i can best describe a groan is happening at around the 60mph mark in 7th on the over run (basically no load through the box). Its enough of a noise to create a sudder or vibration which can be felt throught the thottle pedal (which obviously im away has no direct link any thing apart from the bulkhead. If i accerate noice goes. If i let the speed drop and accerate through that point nothing.. i can go up to 70 lift of the power allowing the gearbox/engine breaking slow the car not noice till the 60 mark. The gearbox seems to behaving propley. Gear changes up and down in manual and auto seem fine. Clutches dont appear to have any slip that can notice at least... And noise doesnt seem to happen in any other situation.. Im yet to try testing in ECO mode (where the box is place in coast mode when lifting off the thottle.) Im not massively concerned as i have a month or so of used Warranty to try and sort it. But i just find it confusing has any one come across a similar thing or any ideas?

most brands seem to be going down this route. 2years OR Approx 20,000 miles between services. those doing more miles like myself end up with a yearly service, where those that dont going as long as two years, This normally rotates between small (oil and filter Change) and a major (all filters spark plugs etc on Petrols. I have work round Mercedes Commercials most of 12/13years in the trade and not noticed any ill effects from this.

I have the earlier 90BHP 1.6TDI with DSG. On my standard 50 mile comute round commute to work via lanes and A roads looking mid 40s to 50 MPG On way home using motorway amd dual carriage way approx anywhere between 50 to 60 dependning on traffic flow etc. On the who not a massive gain over the 1.2 TSI fabia i was running... On a recent run to Windsor from Kent got 65MPG

Wow I can see a lot of thought goes in to DPF regens lol. well the general rule of thumb seems to be a longish drive keeping constant speed/revs so ideally a trip down the motorway etc... most vehicles will sit in the required optimum range in flowing motorway traffic. most DPF we see now the public seems more clued up relates to mileage and becoming filled up we are seeing less and less relating to short trips as 1, drivers/owners are more aware. 2, warning lights being added when vehicles need to advice drivers a regen is needed. Which early vans in didn’t... this was a update for early vans using DPFs as a lot of couriers hit the issue with a lot of stop start driving. for my personal exprience. I’m only 2months in to owning/long term driving of one vehicle fitted with a DPF. (With work drive many different diesels just not in long enough spells to comment on DPF regen). and I’m sure I’ve park it’s up a once of twice potentially mid regen as the smell and the more noticeable fans running after a drive. now I brought the Octavia to replace a Fabia TSI, preferably wanted a TSI, but this partially TDI was a nice spec at the right time a price I was happy with. i use my TDI no differently to my TSI. I’ve not changed any of driving habits or not used it for a short journey.and that is purely because I know my commute gives the car ample opportunity to regen. 5 or 6 days a week it does a 26mile each way commute on. At least half is a stint on the motorway after back roads in the morning the route home half motorway half dual carriage way. i guess what I’m trying to say is, we must all appreciate, cars have to be simple to use. Cos many won’t know or don’t care how they work. And if you tried to sit someone down and explain a lot of the above... you would bore them or you’d put them off diesel even if it was the right choice for them. hence why when you break it down really, a simple drive down a motorway can Be the ideal situation, the DPF light acting as a way to advise drivers to action to avoid costly premature bills. Remembering this is a filter and at some point will fill up and need changing regardless of actions, though there do appear to many cleaning filters. Most trucks now use DPFs and they have a surcharge where they will go back to the manufacture and be remanufactuer or reconditioned. the key thing, and that is now being pushed is buy the right fuel type for your use! If you commute and doing many thousands a year. You buy a diesel and chances are You won’t have a DPF unless you have a used car on a high milage... sometime to me... too much knowledge can lead to overthinking, of somethings that to be honest, has to be simple or wouldn’t work in the real world.

4 years old recently brought approved used. I know they "serviced" the sunroof ie assuing drain points were clear etc, a new blind was fitted as it got snagged and damaged at somepoint. It apprears to be freshly greased etc. I found the info to recalibrate whilest i was at work so will see how that goes on the drive home. If still an issue il approach my dealer.