RallyeSport

The interval adjustment on the windscreen wiper stays on the fastest, moving the switch to a lower setting doesn't work. Switch or relay problem? Also I fitted an Ebay windscreen mechanism and the range seems to be too great, wiper goes on the A-piller. I have adjusted the wiper arm so it sits almost on the panel in the normal posistion, but wiper arm still goes on the A-pillar. Any way to adjust this or is the meachanism not completely correct for the car?

Turbo spinned freely on inspection, so switched the EGR N18 solenoid for the N75 solenid and the turbo spool up was immediately audible on start up of the engine and engine pulled much better. Probably the N75 valve got damaged by sucking on an open vacuum line from the actuator and filled with unfiltered particles and died soon after the leak was fixed.

I will try to swap the N75 for N-18 EGR solenoid, hoses and connector, to check if there is a problem with the N75, next is to see if turbo is seized.

No smoke, turbo was working fine after the vacuum leak fix and Mr. Muscle cleaning. Turbo definitely doesn't spool since the spool up sound is gone.

After suffering from regularly limp mode and then always limp mode/lack of power, I did the Mr. Muscle clean up of the VGT-housing and cleaned the inlet manifold. I found that the constantly lack of power was a hole in the vacuum line to the actuator. I fixed it and I had boost pressure again without limp mode. Turbo didn't make any particular sound other than the faint spooling heard when driving along walls. But now there is no spool sound to be heard, and the engine is lacking power. I checked the vacuum line from the N75-solenoid and only the slightest vacuum moves the actuator and lever. I checked the error code and there was a "P1550 Charge pressure, control deviation code". I deleted it and did a test drive, still lack of power and no spool sound from the turbo. The code didn't come back. So either my turbo has seized or the N75-solenoid is not working? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17958/P1550/005456

I have a 1.9TDI SLX and it has always seem low in the front, even with new original replacement springs from Skoda dealer. Front springs are too weak/low.

Vgate VS450 works perfectly for reading and deleting ABS-codes.

They are useful on both sides of the sensor, just turn it for the correct side left/right. Deleted the code after installation, worked perfectly with Vgate VS450 with no new warning light. Chiseled the old sensor out with a flat screw driver.

Are these rear sensor interchangeable right/left? I have one, but the sensor part i different top/botten, but the metall sensors goes through on both sides.

The left and right side sensor is different right? The are sold as the same for both sides on ebay.

I got a VGgate VS450. It says ABS wheel sensor rear (G46) 00290-035 This was the sensor I changed the last time I had ABS problems, that time I measured it to find a problem with it. It had been working fine, but a sticking caliper has produced heat in the brake disc, it might have taken damage. I tried to delete the code, the reader said it was deleted. I turned off the ignition but the ABS light was there. Also the reader showed the code again. Will try to swap it. Would it been one of the other sensors it would been a nightmare to swap, I literally burned the rear left sensor out.

Thanks, VS550 then.

Any experience with a reader for this car?

Will this work? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F301282603730 Or this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322540858237

I need a reader that can figure out the ABS error on my 2000 Octavia. Any suggestion for an affordable reader that works with this car and ABS? I have an ELM237 BT OBD reader but I can't use this to read ABS codes?

This will turn even if the sliders are not in the correct position, like if I use a screwdriver? I've used CRC 5-56, not helping. Remove it and try to losen the sliders? Any guide for removing the cylinder?

Which reader can I buy that reads ABS codes and works with this car?

The fuses on top of the battery? I checked them, but could not see anything abnormal. Is there an app that can read ABS fault codes via an OBD bluetooth reader?

To clear codes, is just pulling the negative connection to the battery for some time enough? Because a day or more this doesn't seem to help. Or do I need a OBD reader this? Can I use an Android app?

The ABS light won't go off after start up. Last time I had this problem, the ABS used to go crazy after driving 50m, then the light came on and the ABS stopped working. I think I measured the sensors and found the rear left to be slightly off. Now the ABS does not engage when driving off, the light just stays on. I have a bluetooth OBDII-reader, can I use this to read the fault codes identifying the broken sensor? Seems like one of the sensors are not responding at all this time since the ABS just shuts off on startup. I also remember the sensor was a complete madness to change, had to set in on fire and burn it out.

Thanks. Ordered a new linkage from Germany, left hand drive. The scuttle panel is a nightmare. Did not get it off when I changed the pollen filter last year.

When I insert and turn the key, nothing happens. I just freely turns and not engaging the lock. Central locking by remote works fine and unlocks the car, but it would be nice to have a key option as a backup. Can it be fixed or do parts need replacing?

When I put the lever to on, I can help them along with some force applied. They won't budge when turned off. I helped them along for several passes hoping they loosen up, but to chance. I guess it a sticky linkage.

Car has been standing for while and when I started it I noticed the wipers moved just a little and stopped. Bad motor or rust? What's the usual problem? I could move them in the interval they moved but no further.

What kind of puller can I use for the inner race?