bigtrev200

Thanks for all the info guys - I shall give it a go tonight. Fingers crossed its just a bit of crap from my filter got on there and this clean will fix things.

I think my VRS's MAF may need a clean, and while I've read about plenty of people doing it themselves what do I use to clean it and, being a delicate piece of equipment, is there anything I've got to watch out for whilst doing it? Any help would be much appreciated.

Do you have the lambda sensors at all?

Right, I did the VCDS thing at my local garage this afternoon and it didn't bring up a single fault code, which I thought was pretty annoying and I couldn't then pinpoint a problem. However, one of the mechanics at the garage said straight away that it would be a faulty air mass sensor as he had seen the same problem on a Seat Leon Cupra and that bought back no fault codes. As a test I unplugged the sensor (that I bought six months ago on eBay), took it for a run up the road and the car ran perfectly! I suppose this points to a faulty sensor so I'll be buying a pukka Bosch one ASAP.

Thanks for the advice guys - I hadn't thought about bypassing the N249 before and shall defo give it a go. Do you know what size piping I need to get and where I can get it from? Car spares places are a bit shocking around my way so I tend to get most things online now. With regards to the N75 valve I've got a mate who's just bought an Audi TT 180, and I'm assuming that his N75 will be the same as mine (do you know if I'm right?). I might do a quick swap at sometime to see if there's any difference in the running of my motor. When I first bought the car back in July I got it scanned and it brought up the 16684, 16686, 17705 and 17545 error codes. I'm not sure if my car is remapped or not unfortunately. It's got a Jabbasport induction kit and goes much quicker than I thought a stock VRS ever would (I've easily pulled a few car lengths on another VRS in an unofficial traffic light tear up) but I've got no paperwork to back things up. I'm wondering if I contacted Jabbasport and gave them my reg number they could tell me if they have given the car a little power magic in the past??

For months now my 2001 VRS hasn't been running quite right and I've gradually worked my way through the usual repairs of: - Throttle body clean - New coil packs via recall - New MAF - New breather pipes - Full service The problem is that on 0-10% and 50-100% throttle the car runs perfectly - it's smooth, boosts fine and generally feels spot on. However, if I use between 10-50% throttle I have a problem as the boost builds up. As I'm going through the gears the boost starts to build up nicely but then at about 2500rpm, just as the torque is reaching its maximum, I get this kind of boost cut - it's the only way I can describe it. This is also really noticeable on the motorway in fifth gear. If I'm sat at 70mph and want to accelerate up to 80-ish and I use between 10-50% throttle the car just doesn't pull smoothly at all, and can actually get really jerky sometimes. Strangely over the last few days I've also noticed a nasty burning smell when this happens that seems to last for a few seconds. I thought my problems were solved last week when I fitted a new Compbrake DV, and it definitely cured a lot of the problem. However, over the last few days the boost cut off has gone back to exactly as it was before and I'm really losing patience with a car I know can be soooooo good. Any suggestions people? Any help would be really appreciated.

I'm the other side of Kent to you I'm afraid - I'm near Deal. I still haven't had a chance to check my DV but I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks for the tip - I'll definitely be giving that a go tomorrow (if it's not raining). Fingers crossed that that is the problem!

I've already done that... and replaced a couple of split vaccum pipes.

I'm pretty sure that my DV is knackered and I was wondering if anyone has bought one of these from this seller and if they're any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-SEAT-dump-valve-the-710N-latest-version-DV-/250947454547?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6da24653 Just to confirm that this is what I need, my VRS is suffering from what feels like a kind of boost cut just as things are getting exciting (at about 2300-2700rpm depending on how much throttle is applied). Strangely this problem is worse on a really light throttle when I'm just toodling around, and when I floor it the car really flies and I don't really notice any hesitation at all. Any help you guys can give me would be really appreciated

Thanks guys. Well I'm 99-percent sure that the metal collar is all hooked up as it should be as there is some resistance in the handle.... just not as much as the drivers door handle. As for the lock end of the cable becoming disconnected I don't think it has as the door still opens when I pull the cable itself. I'm going to have to whip the door card off again on Saturday and investigate again.

I had a good few hours spare to myself yesterday (a rare thing indeed!) so decided to install a pair of component speakers I've had knocking around for ages. Starting with the passenger side I removed the front door card without too much trouble, installed the speaker and then set about putting it all back together again. However, when I went to reconnect the small hook section at the end of the door handle cable I noticed that things seemed a little loose. The cable isn't broken as it still opens the doors when I pull it, but once hooked around the door handle there is very little resistance in the handle and it doesn't pull the cable enough to open the door. Is there anyway I can sort this problem or does it look like I've got to replace the cable? If so is it a nightmare job because at the moment I can't really see how the new cable fits :(

Well the very friendly Skoda dealer Adamson's of Deal replaced all my original coilpacks this morning under their 'Dealer Repair Campaign' (apparently they aren't allowed to call it a recall...) and my VRS is now back to full health Obviously I must have had a second coilpack that was on its way out as all the stuttering is now cured, although I've still got a new breather pipe to fit and I'm going to give the throttle body a clean anyway. The coilpacks took 14 days for the dealer to get into stock so there is obviously a bit of a rush on them at the moment!

I've got the car booked in at the main dealer tomorrow for the recall check - fingers crossed I get a freebie set of coilpacks! I also noticed last night when rooting around under the bonnet that there are a couple of slight splits in the Y-pipe breather hose so I've ordered a new one from Viper Performance. I'll try the coilpack, breather hose and throttle body clean solutions on different days just to see which one cures the problem. Thanks for your help guys - I love this forum!

No, just the one coilpack that had failed. Do you think another one has decided to call it a day then? I'll get it booked into my local dealer so that they can check them all under the official recall. The car was running OK-ish over the weekend although there is a definite hesitation at around 3000rpm. It coughs and splutters a little and then clears itself by the time it's reached 3500-3750rpm. I've got to get this sorted as it's driving me nuts. I've only had the car for four weeks, and for the last three it has never run sweetly :(