ah101

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like it's as good as the old 1.9 then? Had no experience with DPF's. They are fitted to the 2.0 PD? Can they be troublesome? Cheers.

Likely moving on from my bullet proof 1.9 PD Superb to an Octavia in the next few months. My question is, does the 2.0 PD engine in the Octavia suffer from the same design problem the 2.0 PD engine does in the Superb with the oil pump? If it doesn't suffer from the same problem is the 2.0 PD engine generally reliable. My 1.9 Superb has got 240K miles on it and has never missed a beat! Thanks for your time.

I had this problem. I got mine to work by banging the door near the lock mechanism with the flat of my hand. Once I got the door unlocked, disconnected the central locking power so the door has to be unlocked / locked manually. Not sure whether it is a lock problem or wiring loom problem, but as the rear doors aren't used very often anymore the above was the cheapest and simplest thing to do!

My original boots started to perished some time ago so I used one of those stretchy boot kits. Filled it with loads of horrible black grease! Car has done 240K in total, probably a good 100K on the stretchy boots and everything perfect still.

You have to replace the wind screen wiping relay. Real easy to do ( I've done it. Can't stand wipers going all the time when there is absolutely no need! ) but you have to get the correct one. If you Google, vw passat intermittent wipe, etc, you'll get the info you need. When I say correct type I mean it depends whether you have xenon headlamps - because of the headlamp wash which is powered from the same relay.

Headlamp washer pump on mine had gone. Must use hydraulic pressure to push out the washer jets. Bear in mind though, you have to hold on the windscreen wash for a short while before the headlamps get washed.

Rear drivers side door not always unlocking. Almost couldn't get door open, but a hefty smack with the palm of my hand on the outside of the door near the handle got it working again. Took lock assembly apart and after scratching the bloody red lacquer off of the pcb, resoldered all the connections on it. Actually they all looked fine and it didn't make any difference. No surprise there really. MOT coming up soon so have unplugged lock mechanism. Door can now be locked and unlocked manually ( just like the old days! ). I'm guessing it's probably a micro switch? Thanks for taking the time to read.

My car is a 1.9 awx engine with 230k miles. Runs as sweet as a nut, doesn't consume any more oil than the day I got it with 10k miles on it. Never have to top it up between oil changes which I do every 10k miles. Still returns 50+ mpg. The oil I always use is Millers XFE PD. On the rare occasion that I get the dealer to do the oil change, which is essentially each cambelt / water pump change I even give them the Millers oil rather than the much more expensive VW stuff.

223k miles on my 1.9 and getting (now we're back on "summer" diesel) 54mpg. Not failed the mot yet but had to replace the completely (seems that way to me) pointless headlight washer pump as it stopped working. Unfortunately I am being forced out of my Skoda into a (dare I say it!) VW Golf by my company. Not allowed to run our own cars anymore, so it's back to a company car and lining the tax mans pockets! Anybody had any experience with the 1.6 105 horses diesel? How will it compare moving a Golf estate compared to the 1.9 130 horses moving the 20 ton Superb (slight exaggeration on the weight there of course). One good thing is my wife will be getting her elderly Seat Toledo (same 1.9 engine with 170k miles) replaced by a luverly (nightfire blue - the best colour) Skoda Superb and so into retirement it will go! She only does about 1500 miles a year. Any info about the 1.6 engine would be great. Cheers!

Sorry to highjack your post but hopefully both posts might get answered together. My drivers window makes a terrible squeaking noise. I've read somewhere? that it might be the weather strip along the top of the door/bottom of the window that can cause this. Does that sound feasible?

Just google stretchy cv boot kits and loads will come up.

Change my CV joint boots when they started showing signs of cracking probably about 80,000 miles ago, I used the stretchy type ones and just put loads of horrible black grease in them. Car now on 215K and everything seems fine, no noises of any kind. Total cost about £15 - £20! Car is the bullet proof 1.9 AWX of course.

If your car is less than 12 years old then the boot lid should be covered under the rust perforation warranty. I got my car sorted by Skoda (bit of argy bargy from Skoda, but main dealer stood up for me) at 8 yrs old. Worth giving it a go?

210k on my 1.9 done all my own servicing (apart from cambelt changes - done at SMC Exeter who are excellent) every 10k. Owned from 10k miles so have got to know it quite well! SMC fought my corner for me and got a new boot lid under warranty last year (classic number plate light corrosion). Now fitted LED number plate lights and have silicon sealed the plastic lenses. Had to replace a few things, with approaching 1/4 million miles not to be unexpected, but nothing out of the ordinary. Alternator, fuel temp sensor, wheel bearing, rear shocks and one set of glow plugs. Did the pollen filter housing repair and repaired the wiring loom for the usual lights not working. Apart from reversing sensors that I've given up replacing, everything running like new.

Read "water ingress problem - solved" at top of Superb 1 forum. Excellent guide to most probably fixing your problem.

I had to do this like no doubt many others! Didn't switch the ignition on before reconnecting battery, would have thought that might cause problems! All I did was reconnect the seat connectors, reconnect the battery and then you will have to recalibrate the auto up / down function of the front electric windows. If I remember correctly you have to hold the window buttons while they go down and up once, then they should be automatic after that. Check the wiring in the really good write up that's been "pinned" at the top of this forum.

Washer pump was faulty. Hardest part was getting the water hose off the old pump. Hopefully car will now pass the MOT!

Had this on a HID headlamp Octavia and it was the headlight motor.

Car has factory fit HID lights and therefore headlight washers, but they are not working. My understanding is that headlight washers are now part of the MOT? Can anyone tell me how they work and what is the most likely cause of the problem. I have tried them with ignition on (actually engine running), headlights on and held the screen wash switch in for a good 5 secs but nothing seems to happen apart from the screen gets a good wash! I know it's not the relay. Thanks for your help.

How did you manage to track it down to that wire!?

May have given you duff info there! Just realised your car is a 2.5 and mine is a 1.9, no doubt the alternator is in a completely different place. Really sorry and apologise for that.

I have taken my alternator off in the past and you don't need to do anything with the front of the car. What you do need to to do is cut one of the alternator mounting bolts in half and fit a replacement the other way around. Hope that helps.

Baker21, does this mean you are leaving the Superb MK1 fold soon?

Baker21, does this mean you are leaving the Superb MK1 fold soon?

I got my boot lid replaced under warranty last year for that reason (55 plate). Also check the rubber/plastic trim at the bottom of the rear wheel arches. I had rust behind them, so they were done under warranty at the same time. Shame Seat won't honour their paint/body work warranty in the same way Skoda do!